IN CONVERSATION WITH BEAM RATCHAPOL NGAONGAM

interview by MAREK BARTEK

Beam originally started his knitwear label BULAN as a way to make some extra money. Little did he know that BULAN would grow to be a full-time job and a successful business, appearing at the New York Fashion Week and becoming a beloved knitwear brand for many.

You launched your own brand less than two years ago and have since shown two collections. How has this experience been so far?

I started this brand as a side project after finishing an internship in 2022. No one was hiring, and I needed extra money, so I began making sweaters and selling them on Instagram. They sold out immediately. I initially made ten sweaters, and when they sold out, I realised I could continue doing this. It quickly grew into a full collection.

I held a solo exhibition at a gallery after meeting a lady who encouraged me to show my work. It wasn't during fashion week, just an opportunity to display my collection. Within that same month, I was invited to show the collection on the NYFW calendar. Initially, I hesitated. I felt under a lot of pressure but my friends convinced me to go for it, saying there was nothing to lose.

The feedback was overwhelmingly positive. People were surprised by a full knitwear brand since Missoni is usually the only name that comes to mind for such a niche. After that, it felt like there was no turning back. I now show once a year, focusing on Fall/Winter, which makes more sense and is more sustainable for a small, self-funded brand. My second collection was dedicated to my mom and was very emotional for me.

You mentioned making sweaters initially, and I noticed on your Instagram bio that you emphasise "It's more than sweaters, it's knitwear." Why is knitwear such a fascinating subject for you?

I fell in love with knitwear during a mandatory knitwear class in college. The texture and the process of creating fabric from a strand of yarn fascinated me. Unlike sewing, where you buy fabric and then cut and sew it, knitwear involves making the fabric itself. It's a complex process that requires a lot of thought and precision. I love the challenge it presents.

It’s so funny. My friends who did design at my fashion school and had similar experiences with their knitwear class. They either loved it or hated it, there’s no between.

Exactly! It's a love-or-hate situation. There's a lot of maths involved in knitwear. It’s actually a funny story because I wanted to become an architect but I didn’t want to do maths so bad, I decided to go for fashion, and now here I am. Creating knitwear involves a lot of calculations to make the fabric and shape correctly. It's like tailoring; there's a specific way to do it right, and I enjoy that challenge.

Your second collection shows visible growth compared to the first. It's more expressive and experimental yet minimalistic. How did you approach creating it compared to your first collection?

Each collection is deeply personal. The first was dedicated to my grandfather, who suffered from dementia. The second collection was inspired by my mom, and it included motifs like braiding her hair, a memory from my childhood. Every piece has a story connected to my life, and I design based on these personal inspirations.

You and your mum have grown closer over the recent years. How has she influenced you as a creative person and business owner?

My mom is my role model, especially in terms of her work ethic. She owned a business, and seeing her dedication inspired me. I used to help her and didn't enjoy it, which initially made me hesitant to start my own business. However, once I started, the experience I gained from helping her made the process feel natural. Creatively, her feminine energy. As we grow older, we become softer. She shows more of her feminine side now, the love, the creativity, the colourfulness. It all inspired me.

What do you think caused the shift in your relationship with your mom?

Both of us are growing older and realising the importance of our relationship. Seeing her age made me want to be closer to her and cherish the time we have together. This realisation for sure has strengthened our bond.

Given your background and your journey, do you consider your brand to be more American or Thai?

It's been a journey to discover myself. I came to the US at the age of 15 and have spent half my life here and half in Thailand. For a long time, I didn't categorise myself as Thai or American; I was just me. Recently, I’ve felt a desire to reconnect with my Thai heritage. My work doesn’t distinctly reflect a Thai or American identity, and that’s something I’m still exploring. I often feel like I don’t belong fully to either culture.

What inspires you these days?

Since my last show, I haven't done anything creative. I've been taking a break. But recently I have been working on a special project, making interior pieces and it reignited my creative spark. I'm excited to explore interior design, which feels like a step closer to my original dream of becoming an architect.

Though you are showing once a year, the time to present another collection is slowly coming. Do you have any plans or ideas for your next collection?

The next collection will be dedicated to my dad. It’s a tough subject because me and my dad are not close at all. Not that we don’t get along, but I guess it’s a cultural thing in Thailand, where men are not supposed to be emotional. And so I never really got to know my dad. I never got to connect with him on a deeper level. Thus, I’m using this opportunity to get to know him more. I try to talk to him as often as I can to know his stories and to use it in my collection.

That's really amazing! So, this will be released during New York Fashion Week, right?

That's still 50/50. As I mentioned earlier, this is only my second time showing, and it feels like everything is moving too fast. The brand is self-funded, and it's growing bigger than I can financially manage. I want to slow down and let the brand grow organically, really focusing on crafting its identity rather than just participating in the show season.

That makes sense. So, the New York Fashion Week showing is uncertain?

Yes, it's still up in the air. Instead of the show, I might opt for a lookbook and invite people to a gallery or an open studio.

Can’t wait to see what you guys make together. You’ve mentioned managing a brand financially, how do you balance the creative and business aspects of running your own brand?

It’s definitely challenging. The creative part comes naturally to me, but the business side is something I’ve had to learn along the way. My background helping my mom with her business has been incredibly valuable. I’ve also had to seek out mentors and resources to learn more about the business side of fashion. It’s a continuous learning process, but I enjoy it. Balancing both aspects is crucial for the success of the brand.

With sustainability being such a hot topic in fashion, how do you incorporate sustainable practices into your brand?

Sustainability is very important to me. I focus on creating pieces that are timeless and high quality, so they last longer and don’t contribute to the fast fashion cycle. I also try to source materials responsibly and minimise waste in my production process. By producing only one collection a year, I’m able to take a more thoughtful approach to design and production, which aligns with my values of sustainability.

One last question, what hopes and aspirations do you have for your brand and its future?

Growing as a brand is parallel to my growth as a person. I've started seeing people my age reaching out, looking up to me, and it makes me happy. I founded the brand to counter the toxic environment in fashion, where being mean seems necessary for survival. When people feel welcome working with me and find inspiration in my journey, it validates my purpose.

I’m just one person, but I want to change the industry to be more inclusive and welcoming. As for the brand's future, it’s really up to the universe. I love what I do and will continue doing it, hoping for the best. Even established brands are struggling, so it’s hard to predict the future. 

Embracing my love for knitwear and colour has been the most fulfilling journey. It is not just related to bringing my own visions to life; it is about being an inspiration to future foreign-born generations. Moving from Thailand to the United States was a difficult adjustment, leaving everything I knew behind, navigating unfamiliar cities, and all the complicated emotions which can come with that. However, my love for knitting brought me peace and comfort, a companion among the uncertainty. 

Fashion is all about connections, and coming from nothing has been tough, but I want to show people that it’s possible. It's crucial to create good work, not just rush to produce. That’s why I do one collection a year. I want to make something I’m proud of, not just release something because it’s the season.

Especially if you're creating something for the love of it rather than commercial gain. That perspective is often missing in fashion, which tends to focus on sales.

I understand the commercial pressures, too. I was stressed for six months because my work looked good in editorials but wasn’t selling. Now, I freelance for other design brands which allows me to focus on my passion without worrying about sales. I’m grateful for these opportunities and want to foster a community where people feel welcomed and see that it’s possible to succeed with hard work and belief in themselves.

TEAM CREDITS
brand BULAN
creative direction BEAM RATCHAPOL NGAONGAM
photography ANDREW MAILLIARD
styling ORNELA QORRI
hair ERIN PIPER HERSCHLEB
makeup MARCO CAMPOS
casting director CHEYMA HADJI
models AYDEN KYSETH LYTLE at AMR AGENCY, AIDEN GOLDMAN and NYLE KHAN at HEROES MODELS
interview and editor MAREK BARTEK