IN CONVERSATION WITH DAVID ŽEFRAN

Interview by TIMI LETONJA & SAMO ŠAJN

David is a self-taught chef from Slovenia who infuses every dish with warmth, nostalgia, and comfort. Raised in a rural setting, he developed a deep passion for fresh, natural flavours early on. After studying sociology, he pursued his true calling in the kitchen, eventually training at the renowned Frantzen in Sweden. Returning to Slovenia, he founded Milka, where his focus on seasonality, sustainability, and meticulous attention to detail defines the dining experience. David’s dedication to reducing food waste and exploring local ingredients showcases his artistic approach and commitment to responsible gastronomy.

David, can you share some of your earliest memories that sparked your passion for cooking and how your Slovenian upbringing influenced your culinary style?

Some of my earliest memories are of being in the kitchen with my grandma, drinking what we call "white coffee"—a small amount of coffee with lots of milk—and having toast with butter and blackcurrant jam. Those moments fostered a connection between food, nurturing, and caring for others. Growing up on a farm also deepened my love for nature, animals, and sustainability. By age 5 or 6, I was already cooking—making pasta, baking cakes, and roulades. Life on the farm, with its abundance of vegetables and meats, greatly shaped my culinary style.

As a self-taught chef, how do you stay inspired and continue to evolve your culinary skills and creativity?

I stay inspired by traveling, exploring different cultures, and immersing myself in nature. Hiking, meeting new people, and learning from different traditions keep my creativity alive. One of the biggest influences for me is surrounding myself with passionate people, especially those who are even more skilled or knowledgeable in their areas. Having people who can hold up a mirror and challenge your ideas is invaluable—it allows me to see things from different angles and evolve. That reflection helps me refine my work and push boundaries. Beyond that, I believe in enjoying life—traveling, experiencing new cuisines, and, of course, eating a lot while drinking a little less.

What type of cuisine or dishes do you enjoy preparing the most when cooking at home?

I’d say I’m mostly drawn to Asian-inspired dishes—lots of noodles, stews, fried rice, and quick, flavourful meals. But I also have a soft spot for Austrian and German cuisine, especially hearty stews and bread dumplings. One of my absolute favourites is bread dumplings paired with a rich stew. If I’m cooking for a group, I tend to go for Middle Eastern meze. I love that cuisine—it’s close to my heart, with its vibrant flavours and variety of dishes.

Transitioning from sociology to a career in gastronomy is quite a shift. What made you decide to pursue a career as a chef?

The passion for cooking was always there, even when I was growing up. During school, despite studying something different, I was the one grilling and cooking for friends at picnics. At that time, I felt a bit lost—I was DJing, producing electronic music, and enjoying the rave scene, but something was missing. I realized there was a piece of the puzzle I hadn’t yet found. While finishing my postgrad, I decided to work at a burger place near my faculty. That’s when it clicked, I knew this was the path I wanted to pursue.

Despite your refined culinary skills and dedication to sustainability, do you have a guilty pleasure or comfort food that you enjoy indulging in?

Fried cheese with fries and tartar sauce. Pork and cheese—it's the ultimate guilty pleasure. You know it's not good for you, but there's just something about it. If I were to really indulge, I might make that my meal for the evening, paired with a bottle of Krug.

What inspired you to open Milka in Slovenia, and how does the restaurant's concept reflect your personal culinary journey?

It was a mix of circumstances. I had just returned from Stockholm when my business partners, who own the building, approached me with the idea. At first, I was sceptical. I’d been cooking for 5 or 6 years, but opening my own restaurant felt intimidating—it’s like having a child, you never feel fully prepared. I decided to dive in anyway. There was a lot of preparation, from working with architects to designing handmade cutlery and tableware with local potters. Everything was crafted with care. Originally, I thought about leaving Slovenia, but Milka grounded me here. Sometimes I wonder what would happen if we opened Milka in another city, like New York.

Creating a menu that reflects seasonality and regionality requires a deep understanding of local ingredients. How do you approach the process of menu creation, and what role do local producers, and the changing seasons play in this process?

My approach to menu creation at Milka is unconventional, primarily relying on improvisation due to time constraints, as I manage not just cooking but also PR, marketing, and HR. The menu is heavily influenced by the availability of local ingredients; for instance, I created the white asparagus dish in early May, but now that the season has ended, I must adapt quickly. This necessity drives my creativity, as working with local produce can be challenging. Unlike regions with pristine ingredients, I often focus on extracting maximum flavour from our vegetables. Exploring innovative preservation techniques and gradually refining our approach is essential for Milka's growth.

With Slovenia's extensive wine heritage and its proximity to renowned wine regions in Italy and Austria, how do you integrate these diverse influences into your wine selection to create a unique experience for your guests?

We believe that dining should reflect the local environment, and this philosophy extends to our wine selection. Most of our wines are sourced from Slovenia, representing all its wine regions, along with selections from Italy and Austria. We also include exceptional French wines, particularly Champagne, which I personally enjoy. Our focus is primarily on small, lesser-known producers, allowing our guests to discover unique wines that they might not encounter elsewhere. We emphasize biodynamic and natural wines but also include classic varieties, as we believe quality should never be sacrificed for ideology. In recent years, the wine world has seen many low-quality options, and we strive to ensure that even natural wines are delicious.

Sourcing ingredients within a 150 km radius is a significant part of your commitment to sustainability. How do you select the local and regional suppliers to ensure they align with Milka's standards?

Sourcing ingredients within a 150 km radius is vital to our commitment to sustainability at Milka. While I strive to work with local suppliers, I sometimes encounter challenges, as not all producers understand the importance of high-quality ingredients. When the quality is lacking, I must communicate my expectations clearly, emphasizing that our guests pay a premium for the best dining experience. Unfortunately, some suppliers may not be receptive, which can leave us without options. My approach involves a concentric circle strategy—assessing local resources within 50, 100, and 150 km—and collaborating closely with suppliers to improve quality. For instance, we switched from plastic to glass for our dairy supply by purchasing reusable bottles and exchanging them weekly, effectively eliminating single-use packaging. This approach extends to our meat suppliers as well. By fostering these relationships, we can influence positive environmental change and encourage a higher standard of production in our region.

What inspired you to prioritize sustainability in its operations, and how has this commitment evolved over time?

My commitment to sustainability at Milka is grounded in the belief that quality must always come before ideology; the quality of our offerings should never suffer. Many so-called zero-waste restaurants often engage in greenwashing, presenting appealing narratives while compromising on quality. I believe that responsibility towards ourselves, our community, and the environment can coexist with serving delicious, provocative food and providing an exceptional dining experience. This philosophy has evolved to ensure that sustainability and culinary excellence go hand in hand.

Looking ahead, what are some of the key goals or initiatives that Milka aims to achieve in the next few years?

Looking ahead, our primary goal at Milka is to enhance the overall dining experience by focusing on the small details that create a memorable story, even if they aren’t always financially viable or immediately noticeable. Additionally, we aim to improve our workplace environment, making it more enjoyable for our team, as many in the hospitality industry face challenging working conditions. Although legislative hurdles and taxes complicate staffing, we are committed to building a solid team that enjoys working here and fostering an atmosphere where both guests and staff love to return.