IN CONVERSATION WITH JOEL WILSON
interview by MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
Based in London, Joel Wilson is lead of footwear design at Dr. Martens. Being with the company since 2017, Wilson has attributed to the design process of various shoes and was recently recognised as the prestigious Drapers Footwear Designer of the Year.
Can you tell us about your early interest in fashion and how it eventually led you into footwear design?
I’ve always had an inherent interest in shoes which goes back to my school days – my friends and I loved trainers; footwear is a big part of my life. What I love about designing shoes is the 3D process. Compared to a flat print or drawing, there are so many stages and technicalities involved in the prototyping.
What was the first pair of Dr. Martens you ever owned, and what made them special to you?
I got my first pair when I started working for Dr. Martens back in 2017 and I still wear them to this day. They are a pair of classic 1460s. What I love about this boot is that each pair becomes unique – the leather takes on a personality of its own, all the grooves and marks that appear over time are what makes them so timeless and adds to the character of the boot, they never date.
Dr. Martens has a deep connection to youth culture. How do you channel that legacy into your designs?
The team and I are always researching, we look at everything – trends, product innovation, and consumer data. Our wearers are our muses so we always pay attention to what they are wearing and how they are wearing the product as it’s so important that they can see themselves in the products we design.
What’s your creative process like when designing new models like the 14XX Sub Boot?
Everything starts with research and a deep dive into our archive with our legacy products – we’ve got 64 years of history to pore through which always helps. For the 1460 Sub Boot it started with functionality and wet weather performance, so our pre-work was focussed in this area of product innovation. We then begin sketching and design development – it’s a team orientated approach at DM’s, we all feed in to create the finished product.
The 1460 Sub Boot was born during the lockdown period. Can you share more about how the challenges of the time shaped the design?
You’re correct, the 1460 Sub Boot started as a passion project in lockdown, so we had to evolve our ways of working together. I think it helped the team be more playful in design as it formed an outlet for creativity while we couldn’t get out into the market. Dan from our innovation team originally printed the prototype of the moulded waterproof base on a 3D printer in his garage.
In your opinion, what makes the 1460 Sub Boot and 14XX Sub Boot stand out compared to previous Dr. Martens models?
These new products are designed with performance in mind for wet weather protection and that’s what sets them apart. The 14XX Sub Boot is more progressive, it pushes the boundaries aesthetically – we’ve played with the themes of resilience and protection, adding a removable gaiter with a snow camouflage print.
What specific aspects of Dr. Martens history inspire you the most?
I grew up playing in a punk band and DM’s is so synonymous with British music culture, so I’ve always felt connected to the brand and its history in some way or another. My personal and creative values also align with what Dr. Martens stands for, particularly around empowering people to be their true selves. Our footwear instils confidence and that’s a core reason people associate important moments in their life with a time they were wearing Doc’s – this is one of the reasons why the brand has stood the test of time.
How do collaborations shape the brands direction, and what’s your favourite collaboration so far?
Collaborations are so important to us at Dr. Martens, we work with some amazing partners who allow us to reach new audiences, stay relevant and create inspiring new product. In SS24 we partnered with Rick Owens, where we used the DMXL sole. I put the idea of using that outsole forward in late 2022, and at that point it felt scary to work with a collaborator using an outsole that was still in development. But the Rick Owens team loved the idea and I’m so proud of that product and for taking what felt like a big design risk at the time.
More recently we’ve worked with MM6 Maison Margiela and the process from start to finish has been incredible – we’ve enjoyed a strong creative relationship as there is a mutual respect for both brands and the result of that can be seen in the product, which is launching on 19th November.
You were recently awarded the Drapers Footwear Designer of the Year. What does that recognition mean to you, and how do you see it influencing your future work?
Winning Footwear Designer Of The Year was another really proud moment for me, it’s great to be recognised within the industry amongst so many inspiring design peers. My creative process remains the same – I love what I do, and it comes from a passion for creating great product and forever experimenting and pushing boundaries with the team and collaboration partners.
What can we expect from Dr. Martens future innovations? Will we see further evolutions of the 1460 Sub Boot in upcoming seasons?
Keep track of 14XX, our design incubation line – we’ve got lots of new, exciting stuff coming out very soon.
