IN CONVERSATION WITH MARÍA BERNAD
words and interview by MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
photography HUGO DI ZAZZO
In the world of fashion, María Bernad's brand, Les Fleurs, stands as a poignant reminder that beauty often arises from the overlooked and discarded. Known for her dedication to upcycling, Bernad transforms fragments of the past into garments imbued with meaning and emotion. Her latest collection ‘Lost Objects’delves deeper into this ethos, creating a narrative that resonates with the raw, unfiltered human experience.
I was fortunate enough to attend the unveiling show of the ‘Lost Objects’ collection during Paris Fashion Week. Maria’s mastery of storytelling through design was evident in every silhouette. The collection—crafted from deadstock fabrics—spoke of transformation, a darker reflection of her earlier work.
The collection itself showcases the signature elements of Les Fleurs: delicate white embroidery reigning supreme alongside a striking array of leather pieces. Beautiful jackets crafted from tapestry-like fabrics and some denim pieces. Each garment is a testament to Bernad’s love for intricate detail and timeless aesthetics, marrying romanticism with an edge. A true baroque dream.
What personal emotions or stories inspired the ‘Lost Objects’ collection?
Life in general. Not all moments are happy. This collection is about lost and broken objects, like being a broken doll—abandoned when no longer needed. Humans, unfortunately, do this with people and objects. We discard what’s no longer trendy or necessary. With this collection, I wanted to ask: What do we truly need? And how can we find beauty in what’s overlooked?
What challenges do you face working with upcycled textiles?
Upcycling itself is a challenge. But once you adapt, it becomes part of the process. Many pieces in this collection are one-of-a-kind. This time, I was lucky to source deadstock fabrics that allowed for small-scale production. For example, this look I’m wearing from the show will be available in various sizes, which is so exciting.
If the fabrics in this collection could talk, what stories would they tell?
The collection has three stages. The first reflects how we present ourselves as perfect, often blind to reality. That’s why you’ll notice masks in many pieces. The second stage breaks down this facade, exploring agony, anxiety, and darkness. Finally, the third stage represents liberation—freedom from ego and constraints. That’s why you’ll see nudity, feathers, and even the closing bridal look, which is nearly naked, symbolising vulnerability and freedom.
Do you remember the first vintage piece you ever fell in love with?
Yes! It was a Dior Galliano jacket. I’ll never forget it.
What was it like seeing Beyoncé wear one of your designs?
Oh my God, I screamed! I was at home organizing after a move when I got the notification. Seeing her in the piece we custom-made for her was surreal. She looked stunning. It’s moments like these that make all the hard work worth it.
If you could dress anyone, living or historical, who would it be?
So many people! I’m a rock music fan, so I’d dress every rock musician you can imagine. From the past, it’s hard to choose, but I’d love to create for someone like Patti Smith.