IN CONVERSATION WITH PAS UNE MARQUE

interview by JANA LETONJA

Pas Une Marque, a French luxury streetwear brand committed to breaking logical shortcuts and challenging the accepted chain of thought in fashion and beyond, unveiled their FW24 collection, ‘Seams of Dissent’, designed in partnership with sculptor Johnson Tsang. Drawing inspiration from the spirit of rebellion and the art of deconstruction, this collection is a testament to the power of individual expression and the breaking of conventions.

Your FW24 collection ‘Seams of Dissent’ is described as a bold reimagining of luxury ready-to-wear. Could you walk us through the inspiration behind this collection and how it embodies the spirit of rebellion and deconstruction?

The inspiration behind ‘Seams of Dissent’ stems from a desire to question the status quo of fashion as an industry that often prizes conformity over individuality. This collection is our way of deconstructing traditional notions of luxury. We took iconic elements associated with high-end fashion, like polished seams and structured tailoring, and deliberately fragmented them. The result is a visual narrative that represents the beauty of imperfection and the rebellion against mainstream ideals. The spirit of rebellion is embedded not only in the aesthetics but in the philosophical approach, where each piece is a subtle act of defiance.

How did your partnership with sculptor Johnson Tsang come about, and in what ways has his artistic vision influenced the design process for this collection?

After being a long-time admirer of Johnson Tsang’s work, I decided to reach out to him via Instagram. To my surprise, he responded enthusiastically and expressed his appreciation for the storytelling aspect of our brand, as well as our ties to philosophy and surrealism. Tsang was incredibly open and invited our team to visit his studio in Hong Kong. While there, he gave us full access to his archives, including sketches of artworks that have never been publicly seen. This experience provided us with invaluable insights for research and development, allowing us to create pieces that are not only inspired by Tsang’s artistry but are also authentically tied to the identity of Pas Une Marque.

Johnson Tsang’s work often plays with perception and reality. How have you incorporated his ability to “bend reality” into the design of the garments, and what message do you want these pieces to convey to those who wear them?

We’ve incorporated the idea of “bending reality” into the designs by taking a three-dimensional approach to the collaboration. For instance, several pieces, even screen prints, have been created utilizing shadows to generate depth and give an almost 3D feel. Other standout pieces, such as the hand-embroidered blazer and trousers, feature 3D handmade embroidery that adds texture and a further layer of messaging. For us, it’s about more than just aesthetics. We want these pieces to evoke a sense of questioning from the audience. We hope people truly grasp the emotions conveyed by the faces Johnson created with us. Though minimal in form, these faces express deep and complex emotions, inviting viewers to pause and reflect.

You’ve mentioned that each piece challenges traditional fashion norms. Could you elaborate on the specific fashion conventions you’re aiming to disrupt with this collection?

One major norm we’re confronting is the idea that luxury fashion must always be polished and perfect. ‘Seams of Dissent’ leans into the unfinished, the raw, and the imperfect. We are also disrupting the convention of form-fitted silhouettes. Many pieces in this collection introduce exaggerated shapes that defy traditional tailoring. We’re also playing with asymmetry and using materials in ways that make the wearer question whether they are looking at clothing or a form of art. It’s about loosening the rigid frameworks that have defined high-end fashion for decades.

The collection uses innovative materials and unexpected silhouettes. Can you tell us more about the materials chosen and the significance behind the unique silhouettes in ‘Seams of Dissent’?

For ‘Seams of Dissent’, we selected a blend of materials to push creative boundaries while maintaining our commitment to sustainability. We used fabrics woven with animal fibers from Peru, dyed naturally with plants and fruits from the Amazon rainforest, combined with synthetic materials for a modern edge. This is also our second season working with denim, which has become a key category for us. These diverse materials allowed us to explore bold and unconventional silhouettes, some deconstructed, others exaggerated, challenging traditional tailoring. Each piece is designed to provoke thought and reflect the innovative ethos of Pas Une Marque.

Pas Une Marque prides itself on creating garments that are more than just clothing—they’re narratives. Could you share the overarching narrative or story that ties together the FW24 collection?

The overarching narrative of ‘Seams of Dissent’ is one of transformation and questioning. It’s about peeling back layers of societal expectations and personal assumptions to reveal the complexities beneath. Each garment is a chapter in the story of rebellion, not just against fashion’s traditions, but against the larger norms that govern how we express ourselves. We’ve crafted these pieces to provoke thought and introspection, inviting the wearer to consider their role in a system that often favors conformity over creativity.

You’ve spoken about breaking logical shortcuts and challenging accepted thought in both fashion and beyond. How do you see fashion as a vehicle for intellectual engagement, and how does your work invite deeper questioning?

Fashion is a universal language, and in many ways, it’s one of the most visible forms of expression. It can both reflect and challenge societal norms. With Pas Une Marque, we’re inviting people to not just consume fashion, but to engage with it critically. We want to break the logical shortcuts that lead people to think of luxury as superficial. By creating garments that subvert expectations, we ask our audience to question not just fashion, but broader societal norms related to identity, class, and aesthetics. Fashion can and should be a catalyst for intellectual dialogue.

Your pieces are handmade in Peru using sustainable practices like natural dyes from Amazonian plants. How important is sustainability in the design and production process, and how does this commitment influence the overall feel of the collection?

Sustainability is a core value for us. Our use of natural dyes and traditional methods in Peru allows us to create clothing that feels authentic and connected to the earth. The slow, deliberate process of working with natural materials also aligns with our desire to create pieces that are meaningful and lasting, not fast fashion. This commitment to sustainability adds depth to the collection, reinforcing the narrative of deconstruction by embracing the imperfections and natural variations that come with these methods.

You’ve noted that fashion is not just about style, but about personal and social identity. How do you hope ‘Seams of Dissent’ will resonate with individuals who are looking for more than just aesthetics in their clothing? 

We hope that ‘Seams of Dissent’ resonates with those who see fashion as a form of personal expression and intellectual engagement. The collection is meant to speak to individuals who are questioning not only the norms of fashion, but also the norms that define their identities in society. It’s for people who want their clothing to reflect a deeper sense of who they are, those who are not content with simply looking good, but want their wardrobe to tell a story, to provoke thought, and to inspire dialogue.

Pas Une Marque has always aimed to challenge conventions and inspire dialogue. How do you see the brand evolving in the future, and what can we expect from future collections?

As Pas Une Marque evolves, our focus will remain on pushing boundaries, both in terms of design and the narratives we weave into our clothing. Future collections will continue to challenge what fashion can be, introducing new collaborations with artists from diverse fields, exploring sustainable materials further, and creating garments that serve as statements. We aim to maintain our commitment to intellectual and cultural disruption, constantly evolving while staying true to our core ethos: fashion as a space for questioning, dialogue, and creative rebellion.