GUY BERRYMAN’S FASHION ODYSSEY WITH APPLIED ART FORMS
interview by TIMI LETONJA
words by MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
Numéro Netherlands presents Guy Berryman, Coldplay bassist and founder of Applied Art Forms. Captured by Daniel Sars, Berryman’s Amsterdam-based label merges utilitarian style with modern craftsmanship. Discover the full interview featured in our ODYSSEY issue – celebrating a journey of creativity and timeless design.
Applied Art Forms stands out in the realm of fashion, where innovation meets tradition. Founded in October 2020 by Guy Berryman – the bassist of renowned band Coldplay, collector, and design aficionado – the Amsterdam-based label melds vintage utilitarian, military, and workwear influences with modern craftsmanship. Berryman’s unique blend of knowledge – of architecture, engineering, and vintage garments – infuses the brand with a distinctive edge. Each piece reflects a commitment to durability and timeless design. We explored how Berryman balances his dual careers, and how the ethos of Applied Art Forms aligns with the theme of our 11th issue, ODYSSEY – celebrating the journey of creativity and craftsmanship.
What inspired you to start Applied Art of Art Forms in October 2020?
In 2018, after finishing a tour and taking a break from band activities, I found myself at an inflection point as I turned 40. Reflecting on my life and contemplating my future, I decided to reconnect with my background in engineering and architecture. My long-standing passion for collecting vintage garments – especially workwear, denim, and military pieces from the 1950s and ’60s – inspired me to start a fashion label that combines my design training with my love for vintage clothing. This blend of interests led to the creation of Applied Art Forms in October 2020.
How did your background in architecture, engineering, and utility clothing influence the creation of the brand?
My background in architecture and engineering provided a strong foundation in design principles and an appreciation for functional aesthetics. This, combined with my love for utility clothing and vintage garments, influenced the brand’s focus on high-quality materials, authentic manufacturing techniques, and timeless designs. The technical skills from architecture and engineering helped me create garments that are not only stylish but also functional and durable, reflecting the practical aspects of utility clothing.
How do you select the fabrics for your collections, and what makes these materials special in terms of quality and longevity?
The fabric selection process is inspired by the original materials used in the vintage garments we reference. We never copy vintage pieces exactly but take inspiration from them to create something new. The Japanese are renowned for their superior fabric weaving, and we source many of our materials from Japan due to their exceptional quality. We also use high-quality Italian fabrics. The longevity of our garments is ensured by choosing the best materials and focusing on how they will age and wear over time, adding to their character and beauty.
Can you discuss how authentic manufacturing techniques from Europe and Japan are integrated into your designs?
We integrate authentic manufacturing techniques by collaborating with craftsmen who maintain traditional methods. For example, our denim is woven on Toyota shuttle looms in Japan, producing a unique texture and grain. We also use circular knitting machines for jersey fabrics, which result in seamless garments. By using these old techniques and machinery, we ensure that our garments have a unique character and quality that modern manufacturing processes often lack.
How does the modularity of the Venta Modular Parka enhance its functionality?
The Venta Modular Parka is highly adaptable, with interchangeable liners, collars, and hoods that can be adjusted for different weather. This modularity allows the wearer to customise the coat for various seasons and activities. Inspired by a 1950s American parka with removable liners, we enhanced the design to offer even more functionality and customisation options.
How do you balance preserving the authenticity of vintage styles with introducing modern silhouettes in your designs?
We draw inspiration from vintage styles but adapt them to modern fits and silhouettes. This often involves widening the body, dropping the shoulders, and creating a slightly oversized look. By doing this, we maintain the essence of vintage garments while ensuring they feel contemporary and relevant to today’s fashion. And of course, Japanese street style plays a significant role in this balance.
Can you share an example of how a specific piece in your collection tells a story?
Each piece in our collection has a detailed backstory, often inspired by vintage garments and their original uses. For instance, our jackets might be inspired by military uniforms or workwear from specific eras. We communicate these stories through product descriptions and tags, giving customers a deeper understanding of the garment’s heritage and significance. That said, writing these descriptions can be quite the challenge. We want to share every detail and historical nuance, but we also have to be mindful of not putting our customers to sleep before they even get to the checkout page! (laughs)
What is the creative process behind the unique elements such as screen prints and patchwork details in your handmade garments?
Our handmade garments are customised in-house using screen printing, hand-stenciling, and patchwork techniques. This allows us to add unique touches and personal variations to each piece. The process involves sourcing plain garments then applying these techniques to create limited-edition items with distinctive characteristics. This in-house customisation ensures a high level of craftsmanship and individuality in each garment, allows us to better control the stock lever, and gives us the opportunity to make things very quickly.
What are your plans for the future of Applied Art Forms – are there any exciting new projects or collections
Looking ahead, we plan to expand our presence in select independent stores worldwide, enhancing our brand’s reach and recognition. Creatively, we are always working on new collections, aiming to push boundaries and innovate with unique ideas and designs. You know, to keep the passion burning! There are many exciting projects in the pipeline that we believe will continue to captivate and inspire our customers.
As a musician and a member of Coldplay, how do you balance your demanding music career with the responsibilities and creative demands of running Applied Art Forms? Do the two worlds intersect?
While I’m on tour, a lot of the work for Applied Art Forms happens in my head and during downtime. I design, handle emails, and run the business while traveling. The two worlds do intersect – our stage outfits are customised Applied Art Forms pieces, and I’m incorporating some of these stage designs into our Autumn/Winter 2025 collection. It’s rewarding to see how the music and fashion aspects influence each other.
TEAM CREDITS:
talent GUY BERRYMAN
photography DANIEL SARS
interview TIMI LETONJA
words MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
all clothing APPLIED ART FORMS
