A RAZOR-SHARP GARDEN AT THE MUGLER SS25 RUNWAY
On Thursday, Cardi B, Normani, Anitta and other celebrities sat scattered across the Mugler show in Le Trianon, Paris, wearing black, of course, and awaiting whatever spectacle creative director Casey Cadwallader had prepared for them for the house’s 50th anniversary. In both a celebratory and refreshing turn of events, flower-inspired pieces were awakened in a dark, eerie setting and looks were sharp enough to split a hare.
Inspired by Cadwallader’s own spring and summer experience gardening in Fontainebleau, the flower is a re-occurring theme in this season’s collection. From its root all the way to its leaves, lithe stems and sharp petals enveloped the various garments and looks. Models walked across the runway with edged out haircuts blocking their vision, which was either juxtaposed by open-blooming blazers or complemented with leaf-like layering.
Dresses were designed to emphasise the various silhouettes, with chest, hips, and waists spotlighted to naturally reflect the contours of the model’s body. Geometry was further used to underscore both garment and body. Refinement was key here, each look cleanly tailored with an incredibly sharp eye and attention to detail.
Though majority of the looks were coloured in true Mugler fashion, others had pops of colours sprinkled throughout. The aforementioned geometry suit was, for example, coloured in green; a nod to flowers and nature, but also extending the optical illusions that characterised the look.
Notable to the show was its lack of theatrics. Known for setting and sound to match boldness of looks, Mugler has always been one to align all elements of performance to put on an extravaganza. Yet for its 50th anniversary, it appears that Cadwallader is taking it a step back. Unveiling the collection not in a sci-fi or apocalyptic setting where flowers grow barren, but instead in a simple concert venue in broad daylight. In doing so, Mugler accentuates what has always been vital to fashion runways: the clothing. It’s a refreshing take, especially when so much importance appears to be placed upon creating a greater atmosphere within runways, and it certainly fits with the re-awakened self of Mugler.
