ATLEIN SS25: POLITICAL, PUNK, FEMININE, AND STRIKINGLY BOLD

Revisiting the radical lesbian movements of the 1980s and 90s in London, Atlein brings a modern twist to defiance and identity through its Spring/Summer’25 collection unveiled during the Paris Fashion Week runway. Inspired by documentary portrayals of  lesbians, creative director Antonin Tron showcases a collection that emphasises the multitudes of femininity and blends it with Atlein’s signature drapes and military-inspired outerwear. 

The main inspiration for the collection came in particular from the 2021 documentary “Rebel Dykes,” which captured the vibrant colours of politics and sexuality within the punk lesbians of London. Moreover, “Love Bites,” a groundbreaking lesbian photography book, galvanised the strong self-affirmative and feminine aspects of the runway. Combining both daywear materials like Japanese cotton and light tailoring wool with eveningwear adornments such as  Swarovski crystals, the chosen fabrics reflect the various dimensions that may make up femininity and highlight Atlein’s precision craft.

The diverse use of fabrics also remains central to Atlein’s design, with them being intricately pulled, draped, knotted, and molded with the model’s bodies. The palette stays predominantly muted, defined by darker shades of greys and browns — though the occasional off-white and pop of brightness does appear in garments.

It further combines both traditionally feminine and masculine looks and subverts gender-expectations; empowering the women in the process and defying identity limitation, much like historical lesbian figures. At its best, the Spring/Summer’25 collection not only showcases detailed looks with fine craftsmanship, it also carries a bold and important story with authentic references sprinkled throughout. Atlein’s ode to an essential time in queer history and transporting its timepieces into contemporary fashion, is what makes the runway truly impressive.