HAUTE COUTURE WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2025: DAY 2

words EMMANUELLE PLANTIER, FIONA FROMMELT and NIA TOPALOVA
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

CHANEL

all images CHANEL via vogue.com

This season, celebrating its 110th anniversary, the House of Chanel paid tribute to a central aspect of Gabrielle Chanel’s work. Although her radical use of black marked a major revolution, she was a great colourist as well, working with whites, soft pastels, and vivid tones in an excellent way.

The collection took place in the centre of the Nave at the Grand Palais, in a double C structure created by the scenographer-designer Willo Perron. The show opened with an original piece written by the composer Gustave Rudman, in collaboration with Michel Gaubert. Following the complete cycle of day to night the silhouettes started off with whites, pastel bright tones – a sunshine tweed suit, a lilac tweed pleated dress, an orange-pink coat over а purple jacquard dress. They slowly progressed into midnight blues and blacks with lunar and solar stars featured on black velvet belts recalling the emblematic use of black by Gabrielle Chanel. Light and delicate satin, lace and chiffon dresses were embroidered and pleated, creating a dreamlike theatrical atmosphere.

The Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection was a true manifesto of beauty, precision and creative freedom – reflecting the excellence of the Maison since 1915, when Gabrielle first opened her House.

ALEXIS MABILLE

all images ALEXIS MABILLE provided by the brand

Surrounded by a five-star casting, Alexis Mabille unveiled a SS25 Haute Couture collection that celebrated the uniqueness and fierceness of dear friends and collaborators who embodied the garments. The silhouettes mirrored each talent’s personality and anchored the collection in timeless elegance, an Alexis Mabille trademark.

Undulating shapes gracefully adorned pearly white evening gown, adding a touch of modernity to creations carrying a classic Hollywood flair. Huge aerial tulle skirts right out of a fairytale brought volume to the collection while cinched black and leopard floor-length cocktail dresses showed the dangerous side of the Alexis Mabille woman. The colour palette ranged from pure white to deep black, summoning baby blue on an architectural dress or soft cream on a long skirt. With the support of Dita Von Tesse, Jordan Roth or Ellen Von Unwerth, Alexis Mabille elevated Haute Couture to new heights, perpetually reinventing his art and proposing a new vision to the fashion world.

RONALD VAN DER KEMP

all images RONALD VAN DER KEMP provided by the brand

Elaborate silhouettes graced the couture runway of the Dutch ethical and sustainable designer Ronald van der Kemp's namesake label. This season's collection played with the dimensions of head and shoulders, focusing on exaggeration and reimagination of these body shapes. 

True to van der Kemp's signature style, the looks showcased an exquisite blend and enhancement of materials. We witnessed the intricate use of silk, lace, and leather, in combination with embroidery and embellishments and a wide array of patterns. One of the many highlights was the dramatic headwear of this collection. From extravagantly elongated beanies to furry headpieces and sculptural hats, we were left in awe. The show began with a rather muted palette of gold, black, and white. Eventually, it evolved into a palette of more vibrant colours and patterns, ending with a vibrant red gown with almost alienesque shoulder enhancements. Each look was a masterpiece of its own. Timeless, elegant, and some with a hint of futurism.

GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ

all images GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ provided by the brand

Celebrating two decades of elegance, Giorgio Armani presented his Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection in his headquarters Palazzo Armani in Paris. He shared that this collection is meant to affirm everything Haute Couture means to him, capturing the light on the surfaces of the clothes, rich but with a light touch — something essential for him. The collection was a tribute to the House’s timeless elegance and craftsmanship. 

Armani’s ability to transform classical tailoring into soft and fluid silhouettes was evident in the weightless gowns layered by delicate organza and silk in ivory or metallic hues, covered in vibrant gemstones. The finale of the show was truly spectacular — as always — with Armani walking alongside one of his models, who was wearing a breathtaking headpiece tracing the contour of her face and shoulders, reflecting the purity of the collection. 

SAINT LAURENT

all images SAINT LAURENT © Tadao Ando Architect & Associates, Niney et Marca Architectes, agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier

For the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection, Anthony Vaccarello channeled the opposite forces of Yves Saint Laurent’s archives and the provocative vision of Robert Mapplethorpe. This iconic contrast of an aesthete driven by a quest for new experiences and a grounded literary mastermind remains central to the house’s identity. 

This season’s inspiration came from the classic wardrobe introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in his Haute Couture or Rive Gauche collections and by the spirit of Robert Mapplethorpe. The seductive elegance of the silhouettes was introduced in the interplay between voluminous coats with feathered trims and sharp, double-breasted jackets, combined with thigh-high leather boots. The duality was extended by Bourse de Commerce’s work complementing the warmth of aged floors and historical salons. The lavish crystal chandeliers served as a tribute to the Intercontinental Hotel ballroom — the place where Saint Laurent once showcased its Haute Couture collections.