HAUTE COUTURE WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2025: DAY 4

words by NIA TOPALOVA and ELIYA WEINSTEIN
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

JUANA MARTÍN

all images JUANA MARTÍN provided by the brand

Juana Martín presented ‘Idendidad’ – a Couture ode to Andalusian culture. With this collection Martín addressed the pervasive cultural appropriation of traditions, presenting a powerful counter-narrative rooted in authenticity. The tones this season were mainly black, white, ivory and ecru, combined with light and weightless fabrics, carefully sculptured in Martín’s beloved floral motifs. The MUAH team under the creative direction Rafael Maqueda and Menchu Benítez perfectly captured the collection’s essence. It is certainly not the first time Juana Martín pays tribute to her roots through her work. ‘Idendidad’ celebrated both racial and cultural empowerment, paying tribute to the strength of women.

Miss Sohee’s SS25 Haute Couture collection epitomizes the connection between art and fashion. Her dresses were surreal, elegant sculptures that brought the classical forms of traditional couture to the modern age. 

MISS SOHEE

all images MISS SOHEE provided by the brand

In our time, anonymity has become all too rare. Sohee Park cordially invited us back to the mystery and allure of a masquerade ball, painting it with the seductions and intrigues of Korean technical ingenuity. As a woman designing for women, Miss Sohee honoured the natural allure of the female form, while allowing the viewer's gaze to be drawn to the garments themselves. 

Silhouettes were grand and demanding of the spotlight, shaped after under-layers of Western gowns and the dresses of noblewomen during the Korean Chosun dynasty. The palette featured pure and delicate pinks and purples, with the irreplicable glow of mother of pearl applied through the art of Najeonchilgi, harmonizing with the strength and dark allure of jet black. The meticulous details of chantilly lace and the gentle glisten of Swarovski crystals and beads allowed flowers to bloom as if plucked directly from fertile grounds in Spring. 

Besides extraordinary craftsmanship and profound tributes to her heritage, Miss Sohee’s collaboration The Hyosung Group allowed her to lead the way for the future of Haute Couture by prioritising sustainable textiles.  

GERMANIER

all images GERMANIER provided by the brand

Germanier closed the Haute Couture Calendar for Spring/Summer 2025 with his first Couture show — a truly historic moment for the House. 

The collection reflected true innovation, creativity, and audacity. Every single silhouette and detail told a story of passion and dedication, true to the House’s commitment to sustainability. Models walked dressed in sculptural multidimensional unique pieces crafted with reinvented upcycled materials, and many, many colourful beads. Germanier’s beads obsession started when he was working in Hong Kong and discovered the hidden beauty of discarded beads — making them the hallmark of his designs, and proving once again that sustainable fashion can be glamorous. 

After creating the iconic Golden Voyager for the closing ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympics, Kevin Germanier’s closing show for Couture Week marks yet another great success in his journey.