editor ANANO SHALAMBERIDZE

BURBERRY

all images BURBERRY provided by the brand

“Think of them as weekend escapees,” says Daniel Lee, describing the mood for Burberry’s Winter 2025 collection. “It’s that great Friday night exodus from London – long rainy walks in the great outdoors to disconnect and day trips to grand stately homes.” With these evocative images in mind, Lee drew inspiration from classic British film and television, infusing Burberry’s latest offering with the country’s timeless social observations, all refracted through the brand’s lens of innovation and craftsmanship. Only Burberry could take over Tate Britain, with possibly one of the only shows boasting this many men in suits in the front row, alongside a celebrity-studded crowd including Law Roach, Lauryn Hill, and Orlando Bloom.

The show, marking Burberry’s one-year partnership with Tate, was a celebration of British arts and culture. Their support of Tate Britain’s Painting Conservation Studios continues to strengthen the brand’s commitment to preserving the nation’s heritage while embracing the future. The collection’s atmosphere was heightened by music curated by Benji B, who’s worked with Lee since Burberry’s February 2023 debut show. This time, the sounds of Sinéad O’Connor filled the room, as Benji sourced tracks from O’Connor’s archive, including Troy, I Am Stretched on Your Grave, and Just Like U Said It Would B. The musical tribute mirrored the collection’s ethos, offering a cinematic, evocative soundtrack to the show’s wintery, escape-inspired narrative.

CSM MA GRADUATE SHOW

all images CSM MA GRADUATE SHOW provided by Central Saint Martins

Every year, Central Saint Martins' MA Fashion graduate show is one of the most anticipated events at London Fashion Week, backed by the British Fashion Council and known for launching some of the biggest names in the industry. With an alumni list that includes designers like Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, and Grace Wales Bonner, the show is always a key moment for spotting new talent.

This year’s lineup featured a talented mix of designers, each bringing a different perspective to the table. From sculptural silhouettes to deconstructed tailoring, bold prints to ultra-minimalist designs, the collections were as diverse as ever. Some explored themes of sustainability and craftsmanship, while others leaned into digital experimentation and unconventional materials.

The audience – packed with press, buyers, and industry insiders – got a firsthand look at fashion’s next generation. Social media was buzzing, with names like Tuuli Turunen, Lucas Moretti, Petra Fagerstrom, Jake Zhang, and Kelechi Mpamaugo gaining attention online. The show wasn’t just about pushing creative boundaries; it was also a moment for designers to make their mark on an industry constantly looking for fresh perspectives. CSM’s graduate show has a reputation for being a launchpad, with past graduates quickly landing collaborations, brand deals, and placements at major fashion houses. This year’s cohort is no exception.

RICHARD QUINN

all images RICHARD QUINN provided by the brand

Richard Quinn, my beloved! Always a sight.

It was raining outside in London – wet, windy, and miserable, affecting everyone’s mood, including mine. But the second we stepped inside the venue, smiles started creeping upwards. A winter wonderland, an imagined snowy London street. The lights went out, and then – actual snowfall.

Quinn knows his way around a moment, and this one was magic. Eveningwear and bridal dresses – his strong suit – glided down the snowy runway, one after another, sparkling and shining under the soft glow. Each piece felt like it belonged to a story: a grand entrance, a fleeting glance, the hush of the night’s end.

Midnight struck, and suddenly, the show wasn’t just about the party, but the moments after; the quiet solitude of walking home wrapped in layers of silk and tulle. Gowns shimmered like freshly fallen snow, their movement slow, deliberate, cinematic.

Quinn does what he does best: he makes dressing up feel special, like it still matters. In a city that can feel cold and unrelenting, he gives us fantasy, beauty, and a reason to believe in the magic of a well-dressed moment.

KEBURIA

all images KEBURIA provided by the brand

An undeniable debut star at London Fashion Week, Georgia Keburia brought his signature playfulness to a gloomy Sunday morning. Already a well-established name in Georgia, Keburia is gaining well-deserved recognition across Europe and the Chinese market, and his fantastical, doll-like world was ready to take over London.

For Fall/Winter 2025, Keburia dives deep into contrast, blending the precision of Victorian dress codes with a rebellious, contemporary spirit. He takes the ornate excesses of the 19th century – the lace, the embellishments, the cinched waists – and deconstructs them into something sharp and subversive.

At its core, the collection explores duality: structure versus fluidity, discipline versus abandon, tradition versus reinvention. Feminine archetypes like doll-like silhouettes and ruffled extravagance are given an avant-garde twist. Silhouettes shift from theatrical to precise, with bubble hems and sculptural puffed shapes playing with proportion. Keburia reconfigures the past with Fall/Winter 2025, merging Victorian grandeur with futuristic vision.

Even in a fantasy world, however, Keburia remains bold and outspoken. At the end of the show, the designer took his bow holding a banner declaring to free political prisoners in Georgia, a powerful statement in response to the escalating political upheaval in the country.

DI PETSA

all images DI PETSA provided by the brand

Dimitra Petsa’s Reflections of Desire at London Fashion Week was a hypnotic blend of longing, sensuality, and power. Menswear was reimagined through the female gaze, with muses and gods draped in silk, lace, and sculptural vegan leather. Lace underwear became jewelry, prints bore the imprint of Petsa’s own lips, and a silk-clad angelic figure redefined masculinity.

Subversive bridalwear swapped innocence for indulgence — a bride lost in self-pleasure, her body an altar to desire. Details told their own stories: pearl-strewn swords, vampire fangs, and salt-crystal lashes catching the light. Bells chimed as models walked.

Set to the ethereal sounds of BODUR, the show wasn’t just about clothes—it was about desire itself.

CHET LO

all images CHET LO provided by the brand

Chet Lo’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Modern Antiquity, flipped the script on traditional chinoiserie, reinterpreting Western depictions of Asian art through an authentic Asian lens. Lo takes classic motifs—like tiger prints and cloud patterns—and transforms them into something fresh and modern, full of bold, subversive energy.

The collection features Lo’s signature textures, from merino wool spikes to intricate pleating and plush knitting that creates 3D floral patterns.

LONDON FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025 RECAP