MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 2
editor MAREK BARTEK
DOLCE & GABBANA
When coming to Milan for fashion week, we all know that no matter what, Dolce & Gabbana will put on a show, and this season was no exception. With a collection named ‘Paparazzi’, the Italian duo transported us to the glamour of The Golden Age of Cinema movie premiere. Full-red set with a spotlight at the end of the runway also featured the rows of photographers standing on both sides of the beginning of the runway, ready to snap a photo of the models right after they walked out. The collection was ultimately divided into two acts.
The first one could be simply described as cozy and relaxed, defined by big knits, big coats and big bags. If you didn’t get the memo, smart is the new hot, and Dolce & Gabbana made it perfectly clear. Models walked the runway dressed like old school sexy nerds wearing vintage glasses and variations of Ivy caps and berets. A staple of the show besides the hot nerds, was undeniably fur. Be that full fur coats, more demure version of wool coats with fur collars, a casual denim jacket with fur elements or a big leopard bag in yellow. Aside from fur, the collection was carried out in rather monochromatic looks of grey and beige, playing with tactility of melange, checks and stripes. The personal favourite is probably the tripe suit with a singed waist.
all images DOLCE & GABBANA provided by the brand
To stay true to the relaxed vibes, Dolce & Gabbana provided an abundance of dressing down options, among them a three-piece velvet suit with a knit t-shirt beneath it, looks with cargo and sweatpants, cardigans, which were often layered on top of each other. The influences of 2010’s didn’t miss the house of Dolce & Gabbana and manifested themselves in the form of chains and charms reimagined with a more masculine feel, or styling suggestions mixing items of almost the same, though obviously not the same fabric, creating a pleasant visual play. Honorary mention goes to trousers with belt loops placed significantly lower than we’re used to seeing — something we had already started seeing last season, and are happy to see it continue.
all images DOLCE & GABBANA provided by the brand
And if this doesn’t sound like a typical Dolce & Gabbana show, you don’t have to worry because we are entering the second act. The music of old movies played in the background as they showcased a collection of suits and eveningwear, reminding us why we call them the kings of tailoring. The unshakeable savoir faire allowed them to not only deliver spectacular classic suits but also bring a modern twist to them slightly shortening the sleeves, while elongating the trousers. Suits alternated with variations of evening wear featuring looks like tight vest and loose trousers, long white fur coat, or a reimagined tuxedo with a cummerbund and long jacket from classic suit. A certain level of flamboyance was a must, and this season, it was achieved by styling and accessories, combining opulent open shirts with silk shawls or golden jewelry with colourful gem, and pinning massive gold and pearl brooches on the suit jackets.
All in all, this was nothing short of a masterclass on brand’s tailoring heritage and Italian sophistication.
RALPH LAUREN
Typically held at Palazzo Ralph Lauren, the Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label presentation season after season lives up to the brand’s belief that luxury isn’t just a concept but a way of life. Cashmere became a centre point of the collection, and spanned across country chic, Hollywood glamour, all the way to après-ski.
The presentation started with elevated countrywear, which felt almost aristocratic. Think tweed herringbone shooting jacket and plaid sports jackets, all coming in soft cashmere and paired with caps and chunky knits — a very period movie but with an American twist. The looks were polished yet relaxed, proving that “rusticity” (a word Ralph himself used) can be the height of sophistication.
all images RALPH LAUREN provided by the brand
The second part of the collection was the eveningwear. The suiting was pure old Hollywood—Cary Grant would’ve been proud. Navy suits came in multiple shades, all look incredibly sharp. But it wasn’t just about classic tailoring. Details like a silk jacquard waistcoat with fob pockets and leather tooling patterns on evening jackets added a modern nod almost trying to say, “Yes, I’m luxurious, but I’m also fun.” Ralph didn’t hold back when it came to details this season. A black suede lambskin jacket with a shawl collar was already a staple, and then we found out that it actually took 60 hours to whipstitch it together by hand. The accessories honorary mentions go to: hand-hewn turquoise and silver jewelry, created in collaboration with Neil Zarama of the Chiricahua Apache Nation, bringing a personal, artisanal touch to the whole affair.
all images RALPH LAUREN provided by the brand
As the collection transitioned into après-ski mode, things got cozy, but nonetheless remained very chic. Cashmere bombers, track pants, and a cream shearling duffle-parka hybrid made lounging look like a high art form, and you could basically hear the leather-detailed loden jackets and patch-pocket designs beg to be packed for a snowy getaway.
Ultimately, Ralph Lauren reminded us why he’s the generation-spanning one of the greatest in American fashion. This collection wasn’t just about looking good—it was about feeling good, too. Ralph once again showed us that true luxury is timeless, tactile, and always, always stylish.
JORDANLUCA
The British-Italian label of Jordan and Luca treated us to the event of the season. True to the brand's DNA, the venue was simple and industrial. Guests were seated on foldable benches in the rows, divided by an aisle in the middle and facing a small podium with pink and golden curtains, hemmed by flowers—all very much in the theme of retro prom or a wedding, if you will.
all images JORDANLUCA via tag-walk.com
The opening look was actually two looks worn by an elderly couple holding hands. They walked down the aisle (wedding vibes), got on the podium, posed in front of the curtains (prom vibes) and then walked back. This heartwarming sight was quickly replaced by the look number two, consisting of red low-rise leather trousers with a baby tank top saying ‘I HATE LOVE’ — mixed signals at its finest. The collection was carried out in the spirit of punk tailoring or utilitarian chic, if you will, all in the colours of black, white, red, mustard and mint green. The retro vibe was visible through many elements of the show, from blazers with iron patches to shirts styled with raised collars. Tops featured embroidery and prints, mostly of cartoon characters, among them angels with actual feather wings. Staple pieces included tank-tops with sculpted straps floating above the shoulders, versions of relaxed and flared low-rise denim, a leather jacket painted red and blue and large coats with shoulder pads and belts placed not around the waist but loosely tied around the hips.
Layering played a big role. Shirts were designed to look like models were wearing two on top of each other, same with underwear and belts. A beautiful layered detail came to life in the form of an illusion of two dresses on top of each other with one of the dresses’ straps fallen off the shoulder.
all images JORDANLUCA via tag-walk.com
When it comes to accessories, JordanLuca definitely didn’t disappoint. The design of the belts was inspired by string belts, creating a loop on one side, bags looked punk and went perfectly with silver jewelry of sword-pierced hearts. Special mention goes to the ties with prints on them, including a gay couple kissing — a nod to the fun tie era with a real 21st century twist. And, of course, the platform shoes so high you are one hesitation away from a sprained ankle. Kind of iconic, though.
The show was closed by three models walking next to each other in the variations of the same dress — a perfect look for a band playing at an event like this, followed by the very last look of latex peacoat and open belt flapping around.
As the show came to an end, a woman came from backstage and stood on the podium, followed by Jordan and Luca, each being escorted to the podium by their parents. Yes, that is correct! The completely blindsided audience witnessed not only a beautiful show, but also a wedding they’ll remember forever. After 15 years of being and creating together, Jordan and Luca got married at their Fall/Winter 2025 show. There is nothing else to say, only a huge congratulations from all of us at Numéro Netherlands!
EMPORIO ARMANI
Mr Armani is someone who leaves me speechless after each of his shows. The Emporio Armani collection was nothing short of breathtaking. Quite typical for Armani, the audience sat in the dimmed space. The source of light was a big shining turning column in the middle of the room with the name of the brand and address on it.
all images EMPORIO ARMANI via tag-walk.com
The sound of the wind got louder, and thirteen models started to walk out, reminiscent of a hiking expedition. Winter sportswear was brought into new heights today, with a wide selection of puffer jackets and patchwork technical trousers. The items were each soaked in colours of Scheele's green, purple, magenta and brown. Sunglasses were stylish and clearly inspired by ski goggles, some with a sculpted nose cover. With the last of the thirteen models the sound of the wind disappeared and music became more prominent.
What we witnessed afterwards can be simply described as elegant decadence. The opening looks of the second part of the collection — three-piece velvet suits with gold clock chains going across the waistcoat, followed by preppy style metallic knit over shirt with a tie with velvet trousers, betters and glasses. A play of mix and match was achieved by combining elements of suiting in two versions of shiny velvet and classic wool into one look. Checking my notes, I must’ve written the word ‘shiny’ at least a hundred times, and there’s no surprise to that. Silk, velvet, leather were a part of almost each look and as the light reflected off them, it really created almost an illuminating feeling about the clothes. Fabrics looked incredibly tactile, causing almost a very pleasant overstimulation. An absolutely beautiful touch was herringbone chevron visible on velvet in the second half of the collection adding a whole other dimension to the fabric. Of course, herringbone appeared on other items as well, including a brushed wool jacket, and alternated with other patterns like subtle check and pinstripe. As the show progressed the hues of grey, honey, gold and copper slowly transitioned into slightly colder brown and burgundy.
all images EMPORIO ARMANI via tag-walk.com
Leopard print and fur had Mr Armani wrapped around his finger this time, and all I can say is God bless. The print appeared in many variations of shirts, shoes, bags, coats and jackets, while fur could be seen on coats and jackets, either as full-fur items or prominently displayed on the collars. Other standout pieces included cape coats, tailored jumpsuits, leather cummerbund, denim sets, asymmetrical cardigan and jackets.
The last part of the collection was dedicated to embroidery and boy oh boy. Floral motifs were show-stopping, mixing Bohemian and Southeast Asian influences, first in colour and later in the form of golden thread on black velvet suits. After such a spectacle, the closing four looks brought us back to the Earth, paying tribute to Italian tailoring at its finest. The first look was a classic suit with a double breasted jacket, the second look presented a suit with the same jacket in a thigh length version, and the last two looks were a couple in outfits combining everything we just saw in two simple yet extravagant black looks.