MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 4
words ELIYA WEINSTEIN, EMMANUELLE PLANTIER and NIA TOPALOVA
editors ELIANA CASA, MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
SPORTMAX
all images SPORTMAX provided by the brand
Sportmax unveiled a contemporary and edgy collection promising the rise of a new dawn in the fashion world. While the indie sleaze trend is slowly taking space on our moodboards, Sportmax saw the perfect opportunity to revive this iconic wave of the early 2010’s. Smooth leather, soft fur and transparent mesh bring to life exquisitely chic and relaxed garments that we definitely see in our closets for next season.
Maximalist fringes led the way all collection long, imposing themselves on bags, tops, scarves and capes, inviting endless movement and giving a refreshing twist on an old-time classic. Very high boots with a slouchy effect brought an effortlessly elegant flair to the whole, and we are extremely excited to see more of these kinds of styles in the future. Every look was a beacon of fluidity, with coats and dresses wrapped around the models’ bodies like a tender embrace from a loved one. Special mention to the headwear that left us wondering whether the inspiration came from Scotland Yard or Commandant Cousteau, yet it definitely did not leave us impassive.
TOD’S
all images TOD’S via vogue.com
Tod’s Fall Winter 2025/2026 collection once again showcased the brand’s commitment and dedication to artisanal craftsmanship. The collection featured reimagined classics in earthy tones, including trench coats, bomber jackets, structured men's coats, oversized Di Bag Folio, and the iconic Gommino moccasins. Leather played a significant role, contributing to the structured silhouettes, which is a hallmark of Tod’s.
Before the show started we witnessed an installation with a performance concept by Nelly Agassi - Carla Bruni holding a massive needle, dressed in a long tri coloured leather dress that extended all the way to the ground, embodying the very essence of the brand's dedication to artisanal processes and detailed work that goes into every Tod’s creation.
Matteo Tamburini’s ability to combine Tod’s heritage with a modern sensibility while staying true to the brand’s DNA was once again demonstrated perfectly well.
MOSCHINO
all images MOSCHINO via vogue.com
Moschino’s FW25 reminded us what the brand is all about - the craft and play of fashion. Deconstructing workwear and reimagining the shapes and silhouettes of business attire, the collection tore down the wall between work and fun beginning with tailored pieces embroidered to suggest, deceivingly, a haphazard design process.
Creative Director Adrian Appiolaza returned to Franco Moschino’s Mannequin Dress of 1992 as the starting point of the collection. Fabric appeared to be pinned onto the bodice, as if in the midst of a design inspiration whirlwind. Exploring the concept of the dress with new materials and patterns, he picked apart its original details to reimagine it for the modern context. Oversized, asymmetrical silhouettes appeared to be expanding as the models walked down the runway, with the help of hypnotic floral patterns and loose draping. Distressed denim and leathers with round silhouettes and expansive pockets contrasted to polka dots and flirty love hearts and we’re finished with a giant moschino label inscribed “IN LOVE WE TRUST” across the crotch.
As always, Moschino reminded us it’s not all rainbows and butterflies, the piercing eyes of smiley faces stretched across the body may not be that happy after all. In a subversive twist, belts encaged the legs and mesh stripped back. The show ended with a giant trash bag dress and an alarming SOS.
MISSONI
all images MISSONI provided by the brand
This collection marked a creative direction debut of Alberto Caliri, coming only a month after the passing of Rosita Missoni. Alberto shared with press backstage that his guidance was ultimately the through of Rosita herself and meditating on whether she could’ve approved the choices he’d made.
Missoni embraced ease and instinct this season, stripping back excess to focus on what truly matters—effortless dressing with a tactile edge. The collection struck a delicate balance between structure and fluidity. Oversized blazers, slouchy cardigans, and chunky knits were wrapped around the body in a care-free way, and were layered over crisp shirts or worn as minidresses. Bare legs added a sense of lightness, paired with rugged work boots, mannish loafers, or barely-there sandals.
The palette was rooted in warm, earthy tones, punctuated by flashes of metallics that added a subtle hint of glamour. Silhouettes were protective yet sensual, embracing a mix of wool, cashmere, and silk that felt rich but never fussy. It was a collection that prioritised wearability without losing its edge—Missoni’s signature codes, reimagined with quiet confidence.
VERSACE
all images VERSACE provided by the brand
Versace delivered sex appeal with precision this season, playing with sharp geometry and signature prints in a way that felt both fresh and unmistakably Donatella. Set against the dramatic length of an old train station, the runway presentation gave us time to absorb every detail from confident tailoring or intricate metallic pearl embroideries to bold sculptural shoulders.
Scarves, a house staple, took centre stage, reimagined as prints on everything from ties to coat linings. The structured silhouettes—blazers with razor-sharp lapels, dramatic triangular shapes, and cinched waists contrasted with thigh-skimming hemlines and bare legs that underscored the collection’s undeniable sensuality. Even the opening puffed-up looks couldn’t contain Versace’s signature seduction.
The palette stayed true to the brand’s glamorous roots: a dark, moody base accented with subtle pops of colour and glimmers of metallic sheen. There was an architectural rigour to the construction, yet the attitude remained effortless—true to the house’s DNA, but with a geometric edge we haven’t quite seen from Versace before. It was a collection designed to empower, to command attention, and most importantly, to remind us all that no one does Versace like Donatella.