MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 5

words ELIYA WEINSTEIN, EMMANUELLE PLANTIER and NIA TOPALOVA
editors ELIANA CASA, MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

FERRAGAMO

all images FERRAGAMO via vogue.com

This season, Maximilian Davis’s vision continued the dialogue between Ferragamo and dance. Davis was influenced by the work and the very essence of Pina Bausch, and more precisely the way she would incorporate flowers into her art, contributing to the emotional and visual atmosphere of her performances, exploring themes of longing and complexity of human relationships. Flowers are a significant element to Ferragamo as well, a way to celebrate beauty, fragility and femininity. For the Fall/Winter 2025 collection, the ground was covered in an endless amount of red rose petals.

Another point of reference for Davis were the 1920s, marking a shift in women’s fashion, as they rebelled against societal norms, moving from the corset to the dropped waist, giving a way to a looser fit, and more importantly bringing freedom to women’s appearance for the first time. 

The collection balanced softness with structure and form, precise tailoring with fluidity, combining satin, fur, leather, organza, and lace. The prevailing tones were pale blushes and soft pastels, earth hues, with standout all red looks with petal motifs. Sharp blazers and coats, oversized leather waistbands, and silk or lace see-through dresses brought a strong sense of movement. The sculptural heels and minimal flats spoke to the brand’s commitment to functionality and luxury focusing on clean lines. Adriana Lima’s walk for Ferragamo perfectly captured the essence of the collection as she walked in a long leather perfectly tailored coat. 

BALLY

all images BALLY via vogue.com

Bally’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection was named “Leistung/ Aufführung”, both words translating as “performance” – the first based on achievement and the second self-expression, reflecting Simone Bellotti’s exploration of structure, precision, and fluidity. The colour palette this season featured dark tones, mainly greys, blues, and blacks, with pink and green accents. The materials varied from fur, leather and knitwear. Structured sharp volumes were in perfect harmony with the location itself – the Milan Torre Velasca. Some of the model’s faces were covered in silver makeup, mirroring the metallic accents in the silhouettes. For this collection, Simone Bellotti drew inspiration from the Dada artistic movement’s origins in Zurich, playfully revisiting Bally’s heritage.

DOLCE & GABBANA

all images DOLCE & GABBANA via vogue.com

Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection “COOL GIRLS” masterfully reflected the brand’s ongoing commitment to tailoring, navigating the spaces between streetwear and formalwear, while creating a very intentional balance. Faux fur and denim were paired to elevate the precise stitching and tailoring. Oversized beanies and bags, tones of khaki, black, and leopard, delicate lace tops were paired with oversized fur pieces and chunky biker boots. Models moved through a set designed to evoke the red carpet glamour, drawing inspiration from the paparazzi culture, with the stage itself featuring dynamic lighting, and offering an intimate yet hectic atmosphere. The show ended with a rave on the streets of Milan by Victoria de Angelis.

MSGM

all images MSGM via vogue.com

Tulle and fur were the focus of fascination for MSGM’s FW25 collection. Mesh allowed layers to convey movement and highlight the natural contours of the body while transforming its silhouette. The inspiration for flowing capes, ponchos and tops came from the work of Luca Boffi. Even in structured dresses, the transparency of tulle translated to an ease. Exploring both bright, neon colours and layers of greyscale and black, its multidimensionality was on full display. 

In contrast, dense, fluffy fur was stiff and held its own shapes. In oversized silhouettes, the body hibernates inside floor length coats and gorp core inspired shapes. Though contrasting one another, tulle and fur both stirred intrigue by taking on unexpected forms. The vibrancy and playfulness continued in the blown up prints of Caterina Frongia that found themselves on sweaters, pencil skirts and shawls. Giant patterns of text punctuated the collection with youthful energy that defined the brand’s DNA. Low slung jeans and fur boots related the whimsical nature of the collection back to streetwear and the everyday.

FIORUCCI

all images FIORUCCI provided by the brand

Titled “Beatitudo”, Fiorucci’s FW25 collection was an ode to lightness and sweet happiness, unveiling a surrealist tale about the purest of joy. Iconic codes of the House, such as printed cherubs against chiffon clouds and pastel colours are reinterpreted to invite us to always look on the bright side of life. 

Feelings of nostalgia and irony were translated in the cheeky decor recreating a sunny Portofino where snow would suddenly appear. Classic tailoring pieces got a contemporary makeover thanks to the use of high-shine natural latex, recycled PVC and soft neoprene. Prints were everywhere and truly embodied the carefree spirit of the collection, especially the bikini body print sported on an oversize T-shirt. Short shiny boots with small heels met relaxed sneakers and slippers, because you are never happier than when you are comfortable, fashion addicts know that. 

On top of presenting an acclaimed collection, Fiorucci aimed to liberate the access to fashion shows by inviting 400 students alongside industry guests to discover the presentation. In Francesca Murri’s words: ‘Fiorucci today is ironic, colourful and democratic”.