MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 6
words ELIYA WEINSTEIN, EMMANUELLE PLANTIER and NIA TOPALOVA
editors ELIANA CASA, MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
SUSAN FANG
all images SUSAN FANG via vogue.com
Susan Fang reflects on memories of her home and family in her FW25 collection, using her mothers oeuvre of paintings as a visual starting point. Fang granted her mother, who now works for the brand as a designer, the exhibition for her work she always dreamt of. Bright and whimsical scenes of farm life and the rich nature surrounding it unfolded on outerwear and flirty dresses.
In line with Fang’s design DNA, the collection was a harmonious blend of Chinese and Western dress. Garments were heavily crafted with the support of Dolce & Gabbana, featuring innovative 3D printing and origami techniques. Ceramic pastel colours were delightfully light and bubbly, giving the collection a dreamlike aesthetic.
Covered in ruffles and flowers, silhouettes were feminine and A-lined, exaggerating classical shapes. Fang played with different necklines in all her dresses, some low exposing the chest and shoulders, while others came up the neck and attached to hoods. The collection in all was pure and sweet, reflecting Fang’s love for her family and friends
GIORGIO ARMANI
all images GIORGIO ARMANI provided by the brand
“If you’re sexy inside it doesn’t matter what you wear. Sexiness is your hand movement, the look in your eyes, your attitude.”On the final day of Milan Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani presented his collection that, in every sense, captured the essence of Italian precision, defined by the beauty of simplicity. The collection was an embodiment of Armani’s lifelong fascination with beauty, with each look being a testament to his belief that pure, effortless beauty lies in the harmony of body and mind, in the wearer’s inner grace and expressiveness.
Armani presented his collection in the intimate atmosphere of his Armani Teatro on via Bergognone, offering a sense of tranquility, a moment to pause and appreciate the interplay of the precision and fluidity in each piece. The designer shared that this season, he wanted to imagine a new kind of harmony, by using colours of the earth, minerals, and certain landscapes illuminated by the sun. All of this resulted in simple and precise cuts defining fluid lines, gracefully draping the body with velvet, cashmere, silk, knitwear or sequin embroideries, in the tonality of sand gold, dark brown, quartz blue, metallics, and soft greys. The sculptural tailoring of the suits carried the signature Armani touch. The silhouettes were completed by minimal accessories, crystal-embellished shoes and hats, bringing an added sense of serenity.
AVAVAV
all images AVAVAV provided by the brand
AVAVAV got us used to transgressive runway shows that held a cold mirror up to the fashion sphere’s face. It is safe to say that the FW25 collection did not drift away from Beate Skonare Karlsson’s provocative philosophy who put under the spotlight the sometimes senseless habits of the industry. Between zombie-like or pregnant models, this collection further affirmed the label’s pioneer role in deconstructing fashion.
Let us enter the underworld AVAVAV style, with black laced boleros that turned into a funeral-like veil and dirty makeups as if the models just crawled out of their graves.
The collaboration with Adidas enters a new chapter with an array of oversized tracksuits and hoodies as well as heeled slippers. Interestingly distressed skirts and large T-shirts accentuate the half-dead feel of the looks, as if Karlsson tried to tell us that fashion is dead. Printed crop tops imitating a tuxedo brought us back to tacky 2000’s and we honestly loved it, while female tailoring underwent an old-school makeover with hourglass-shaped jackets and ruffled skirts very 1950’s.