MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 4

words EMMANUELLE PLANTIER and NIA TOPALOVA
editor MAREK BARTEK

GIORGIO ARMANI 

What better way to close Milan Fashion Week than with Giorgio Armani’s Fall 2025-26 Collection, presented in his headquarters on Via Borgonuovo? The collection was a true testament to Giorgio Armani’s brilliance as well as his dedication to his craft. This season he created an image of a man passionately embracing his individuality and sense of self, unafraid to make a statement by challenging conventions. A perfect mix of classic elegance and creativity, something Giorgio Armani always achieves effortlessly. 

all images GIORGIO ARMANI provided by the brand

The show opened with monochrome, delicately polished silhouettes accentuated in timelessness of grey and black. The first look presented a two-piece suit with a zipped sweatshirt and a pattern shirt underneath, blending formal and casual. The show went on with silhouettes in the same color palette accompanied by fine knitted sweaters and scarves. The collection gradually  gave way to a more vibrant colour palette and material combinations of leather and velvet. The transition started with the monochrome looks getting slightly accentuated by burgundy, slowly adding more and more color as the show went on. We could clearly recognise Giorgio Armani’s quiet mastery in each detail.

all images GIORGIO ARMANI provided by the brand

Towards the middle of the show, we were treated to a transition. The lights turned  blue,adorning the models wearing ski equipment and statement eyewear. Giorgio Armani visually transported us to a whole different space only for a minute, presenting statement silhouettes in reflective tones. The last part of the show was simply spectacular. The Men’s Fall Winter collection closed with the models being accompanied by women dressed in crystals and sequins, shimmering with each step, while the men’s silhouettes were accented by just a hint of that same radiance.

Once again, Giorgio Armani demonstrated that even at 90, his mastery remains as dynamic as ever, endlessly evolving,and ultimately proving that true artistry knows no age.

ZEGNA

Since 1910, Zegna has been leading menswear with its uncompromising dedication and cheeky creativity. This season, they yet again lived up their reputation and showcased a collection retrieving the power of nature. Set in a sumptuous décor invoking natural elements, the Zegna Fall/Winter 25/26 fashion show was crafted like a love letter to wool and the infinite possibilities it offers. The presentation was effortlessly refined, with undulating grass hills covering the floor transporting us into the heart of the Australian outback.

all images ZEGNA provided by the brand

Opened to the sound of bleating sheeps, the collection set the tone with an array of suits made of (you would have guessed it) heavy wool. The richness of the materials confirmed the Houses’s unapologetic craftsmanship and its concern for bringing to life garments of outstanding quality. Trouser and jacket co-ords in earthy tones alternated each other in an effortless manner, and scarves knotted close to the neck to prevent catching a cold, added a touch of old-time romanticism to the whole. A definite highlight of the show was the remarkable outerwear, with long wool coats in a delicious houndstooth print that would make Coco Chanel envious. We couldn’t get enough of the collection’s eerie atmosphere, and the shiny black Oxford shoes were perfect for a stroll in a foggy garden. Their superb design will ensure timeless elegance and comfort for days.

The pants were slightly oversized to prove that the Zegna man is above all relaxed and confident, and that his elegance is definitely not a sign of uptightness. He lives with his times, with a sailor-inspired bag pack or charming handbag to accompany him anywhere. He layers shirts and cardigans with nonchalance, staying true to his carefree spirit.

all images ZEGNA provided by the brand

We also observed collars becoming an essential part of the garments, opened wide to create movement, reworked, exaggerated and bold, they twist around conventions and propose something truly unique. Following the thread of timeless elegance, central to Zegna’s identity, accessories were used to specifically enhance the looks and add depth to the collection. Models were seen wearing large rectangular glasses with rounded edges, either on their nose or around their neck, because what is more attractive than a man who reads?

Later on, the collection livened up with sage silk shirts floating around the body and fluid pearl white pants. A rusty, copper colour manifested itself on long coats while suits sported profound somber red  perfectly fitting for a lazy afternoon followed by a mundane evening. Dark pine green caught our eye on a sublime wool jacket, and we could not have been more delighted to see leather make its appearance on an aviator jacket or shiny on a Matrix-like coat. If we had to pick a piece to come home with us it would certainly be that long checkered grey coat embellished with a fur collar bringing all our Eastern Europe fantasies to reality.

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