words by ELIANA CASA
editor MAREK BARTEK

New York Fashion Week might be over for many, but not for us. While the fashion world has already shifted to London and now Milan, we couldn’t help but pause and reflect on what could be considered one of the most exciting fashion seasons in the city that never sleeps. From Alaïa’s New York debut to Luar’s daring showcase, join us as we dive into the standout moments of New York Fashion Week 2024.

DAY ONE

Just ahead of the official schedule, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez kicked off New York fashion week, with Proenza Schouler’s SS25 collection. As rays of a bright light entered the New York Mercantile Building, oversized shirt dresses, fringed off-shoulder gowns, and coats with belted collars made their entry on the catwalk, making a loud statement against quiet minimalism.

all images PROENZA SCHOULER via vogue.com

DAY TWO…OR WAS IT ONE (?)

Second fashion week day was one for celebration. Area’s ten year anniversary collection, 'See Now, Buy Now’, was a true manifesto of self-expression and identity. A standout piece? The 'Bans Off Our Bodies' t-shirt, created in partnership with Tinder, which underscored a crucial message: fashion needs to be political now more than ever. Collina Strada’s Creative Director, Hillary Taymour, understood the assignment, and transported even the most hectic fashionistas to “Touch Grass” in the East Village’s Marble Cemetery. Amid the tumult of the election climate, the SS25 collection is a call to action to reconnect with the essential, by letting the clothes speak for themselves.

all images AREA via vogue.com

all images COLLINA STRADA via vogue.com

DAY THREE

Collina Strada brought us to the cemetery, Palomo Spain took us to church instead. For this SS25 collection, ”All of Heaven’s Parties”, Alejandro Gómez Palomo explored the concept of lust, desire and sexuality by reimagining traditional silhouettes.

Deconstruction is a familiar concept for streetwear brand Who Decides War. Power fashion duo Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore led us on a journey to the Victorian era, yet the show felt incredibly more contemporary than ever. Opulent ball gowns were juxtaposed with distorted silhouettes, leather belts were transformed into dresses, and denim was shredded beyond recognition.

all images PALOMO SPAIN via vogue.com

all images WHO DECIDES WAR via vogue.com

Amy Smilovic, Creative Director of Tibi, redefined style norms with her audacious SS25 collection. Described as boundary-pushing, this collection transforms the concept of elegance, making suits versatile enough to transition effortlessly from a night out to a formal meeting.

The day ended with a show destined for the history books—yes, we’re talking about Alaïa. For the first time, the iconic brand made its New York debut, and Peter Mulier seized the moment, taking us on an immersive journey through the ramps of the Guggenheim Museum. The space served as the ideal runway for the SS25 collection, where volumes and abstraction harmoniously merged together into the museum's unique architecture.

all images TIBI via vogue.com

all images ALAÏA via vogue.com

DAY FOUR

Filling the shoes of a legendary creative director is no small task, but Ib Kamara is proving he's more than up for the challenge. Off White SS25 show “Duty Free” was a trip down memory lane. Drawing inspiration from Virgil Abloh’s heritage, Ib Kamara crafted a futuristic streetwear collection that seamlessly blended two contrasting worlds: Africa and America. And, when it comes to heritage in New York, we can't help but mention Tommy Hilfiger’s SS25 show - an emotional tribute to the brand's roots. As models strutted down the corridors of the Staten Island Ferry, classic statement pieces were reimagined with a modern, refreshing twist.

all images OFF-WHITE via vogue.com

all images TOMMY HILFIGER via vogue.com

Gabe Gordon disrupted the flow of reality, on day four of fashion week, with his SS25 collection, 'HORSEPLAY’, drawing inspiration from a '80s horror fantasy. Pushing the boundaries of knitwear, Gordon reimagined equestrian silhouettes through bold cutouts, upcycled tees, and striking leather dresses.

all images GABE GORDON via instagram.com

DAY FIVE

While it's often easy to predict a brand’s show invitation, the venue always leaves the audience guessing about the experience. For her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Tory Burch took us underwater to the most stylish swimming pool imaginable. Set against a mint green mosaic backdrop, the brand’s signature preppy styles reemerged, now enhanced with playful transparencies and much-expected wet looks.

all images TORY BURCH

A pleasant surprise was Diotima’s SS25 presentation, ‘DÉJÀ VU’. As we entered a vast room in Downtown Soho, red candles dripping across the floor created a mystic ambiance. Rachel Scott reimagined womenswear in a provocative yet imaginative manner, with a clear reference to her Jamaican roots. In other cases instead, entering a venue can be quite challenging, and SP5DER was no exception. It was clear that the show drew all the trendsetters, and we obviously couldn’t miss it. Streetwear was given a fresh twist, highlighted by the iconic spider print and chunky biker boots that completed the looks with striking flair.

all images DIOTIMA via vogue.com

all images SP5DER via kingspider.co

DAY SIX

“Oh my God, that’s Madonna!” someone shouted from the audience. Luar injected an extra dose of thrill into this fashion season, kicking off the show with loud music and a star-studded front row. The more punk, the merrier - fitted silhouettes, unbuttoned or zipped apart, and detachable jackets and pants all strutted down the runway, adding to the rebellious vibe. Meanwhile, Michael Kors whisked us away to Italy, and the brand’s recent Instagram teasers offered just a glimpse of what was to come. The SS25 collection paid homage to Italian craftsmanship, focusing on rich textures and drawing inspiration from the new Netflix series, “Ripley”.

all images LUAR via vogue.com

all images MICHAEL KORS via vogue.com

Kate Barton's Spring/Summer 2025 collection marks a new chapter in her evolution as a designer. Dominated by whites and pastels, the dresses were draped onto the models’ bodies as if they were living sculptures, transforming each outfit into a work of art.

all images KATE BARTON via vogue.com

DAY SEVEN

Last, but certainly not least, Melitta Basumeister elevated her sculptural signature pieces to new heights. The SS25 collection featured models of diverse ethnicities, abilities, body types, and ages, making it more relatable than ever. Meanwhile, Jane Wade made a bold statement against capitalism by deconstructing power suits, dress shirts, and denim into metal corsets and petticoats. Despite initial skepticism about her collaboration with Nike, she clarified her stance: “You have to set internal boundaries and ask, ‘Does this partnership align with my values, morals, and narrative?’” For her, the answer was a resounding yes.