PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 1
words EMMANUELLE PLANTIER, FIONA FROMMELT and NIA TOPALOVA
editors MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
WEINSANTO
all images WEINSANTO provided by the brand
This season, Weinsanto presented a collection that was both daring and precise, titled ‘Complètement Givrée’—literally “completely frozen”, figuratively “crazy”. The show opened with Camille Lelouche, the muse from the previous season, delivering a live vocal performance, giving everyone a glimpse of what was to come. She wore a silver mini skirt, paired with sculpted leather pieces, establishing the collection’s icy aesthetic.
The materials, primarily metallic leathers, white furs, and silvers, evoked the harsh beauty of snow and ice. The focus on draping and tailored silhouettes, especially around the shoulders, added a softness that balanced the sharpness of the materials. Leather trench coats and bomber jackets had a sculptural quality, while the combination of white-on-white and black-on-black elements created a visual tension.
‘Complètement Givrée’ balanced conceptual inspiration with wearable design. Victor’s precise craftsmanship and ability to weave a narrative into his work marked a particularly strong beginning of this season in Paris.
CFCL
all images CFCL provided by the brand
For this season CFCL unveiled a greatly cohesive collection that extensively played with an out-the-box shaping and interesting styling. Yusuke Takahashi brought innovation to the runway by inviting eccentric fabrics and a superb colour palette to collide in a beautiful meeting of elegance and creativity.
The collection unfolded to an enchanting rhythm evoking at the speed of a clock ticking with precision, presenting monochrome black complete with a red line that transformed to red and pink hues before our wondered eyes. The intricate play on layering elevated the silhouettes to new heights, making the models look like sculpted flowers. White mohair added a soft and delicate touches on sleeves while see-through striped leggings made the perfect with the endless pleats composing the garments. Golden earrings caught the spotlight and adorable small clutches and bags were the perfect cherry on the most fashionable cake.
VAQUERA
all images VAQUERA provided by the brand via BFA
“Love is Hard,” read the tights as they came down the runway, making it clear that everything in this collection was built to make a statement. And let’s just say, it wasn’t just the love that was heavy—it was the clothes, too. This collection was extra, extra, extra large, a fierce exploration of coolness, scale, and unapologetic romanticism, where every single element was sized up to the extreme. From the shoulders to the silhouettes, from the accessories to the lashes, everything reached for a whole new dimension—transforming the runway into a world where size wasn’t just a number; it was an attitude, and love became resistance.
The models were draped in massive black and leopard fur coats that engulfed them entirely, rich in texture and weight, leaving only their eyes, framed by massive lash extensions, visible. Oversized, sometimes cropped, suits created rectangular, boxy silhouettes. The tops, exaggerated through padding, carved out strong and sharp shoulders. Their signature bra turned into gigantic floor-length tops and sized-up skirts. Puffy dresses and balloon skirts were pinched into new widths and lengths, creating soft, rounded silhouettes. The runway was romantically dark in terms of color, yet a 40s-inspired wedding dress, in the softest, most delicate pink, interrupted the otherwise monochrome palette, making us feel a glimmer of hope. Massive leather buckle belts and trompe l’oeil looks added a sharp contrast of realism. The final layer of romanticism was added through lace hats, big-bowed headpieces, and larger-than-life, floor-length pearl necklaces, which tied it all together.
These were no longer mere garments; they were extended, redefined, and magnified versions of themselves—inviting us to rethink the impact love can have on us all.