PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 8
editors MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
LOEWE
review by ELIYA WEINSTEIN
all images LOEWE provided by the brand
For Loewe’s FW25 collection, Jonathan Anderson opted for a presentation that went further than showcasing his latest fashion conceptions. In the Hôtel de Maisons in Paris, he conceived a “scrapbook of ideas” where each room of the early eighteenth century building revealed an insight into his visual narrative.
Men’s and women’s collections were presented in symphony with the architecture of the building. Surrounded by exceptional pieces of their work, garments were the sartorial recreations of artists' visions, including Anthea Hamilton, Liz Magor, Zizipho Poswa, Hilary Lloyd and many others. Around them, parts of the processes used by the artisans who collaborated with Loewe were also presented such as their tools or patterns.
The garments themselves were displayed on mannequins or stood as if worn by ghosts, each playing on scale, volume or other visual illusions like trompe l’œil. Ribbons cut in leather jackets gave them slouchy silhouettes, jackets were intricately woven to create a graphic kind of pointillism, and organza became beaded in a new technique that gave solid dresses the appearance of softness. Around the Hôtel de Maisons, we found objects taking us back in time through Jonathan Anderson’s moments at Loewe… could the giant tomato be a hint of something?
SACAI
review by ELIYA WEISTEIN
all images SACAI via vogue.com
Chitose Abe’s splices and juxtapositions fall so naturally on the body, she makes you think suit jackets are meant to be halved and sweaters should be draped around your shoulders. Her FW25 collection for Sacai balanced opposites in layers that spiralled around the body, embracing and protecting it.
The first look began with the front panel of a double breasted suit jacket. The same tweed suiting material continued into a pleated skirt, one side of a poncho, and finally a cape-like scarf with fringed ends. Chitose extended this idea throughout the collection - whirlpooling looks that look to be unravelling at the same time as all their individual pieces become one.
The weights, textures and movements of different fabrics balanced through asymmetrical tailoring. Curly Mongolian fur lined knit poncho-sweaters and seemed to overflow out of their collars and sleeves. Fuzzy fur, dyed maroon and green, contrasted to the sheen of leather in deconstructed biker jackets, and silky drapery to the angular cuts of suit jackets. Puffers and military jacket references felt sensual, with their edgier details like zippers and buckles shyly hidden amongst layers.
Silhouettes were chunky, with attention to detail from each angle - you couldn’t tell what to expect once the model had her back towards you. Chitose achieved sleekness and sexiness through portraying raw confidence, offering the body freedom within the clothes, rather than overt seduction.
VAUTRAIT
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images VAUTRAIT by Kristy Sparrow provided by the brand
The Vautrait Fall/Winter 2025 collection was a meditation on the idea of unanswerable questions, reflections on closure (or the lack thereof), exploring fashion as an ongoing process rather than a conclusion. The collection stands in contrast to the systematic nature of technology and science. It exists in a space beyond logic or explanation where mistakes aren't errors, but simply moments of creative revelation.
This season’s collection drew from a lineage of craftsmanship, allowing archival and vintage pieces to be reworked and deconstructed, transforming them into something new yet familiar, with a focus on earthy tones and oversized silhouettes in leather and fur. The hand's intimate connection with materials and the process of creation was strongly emphasised, rejecting the idea of fashion as a purely conceptual exercise. In this way, understanding is lived through touch, tradition, and the dialogue between the maker and their medium.
MARINE SERRE
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
all images MARINE SERRE provided by the brand
Wishing to open a reflection about the financial constraints faced by an independent label in an ever-growing commercial industry, Marine Serre cleverly chose the Monnaie de Paris to host her FW25 runway show. After seven years of growing her fashion house, Marine presented a refined and thought-through collection that brilliantly illustrated her evolution while retrieving the iconic codes that enchanted so many fashion addicts across the world.
Nodding at the historical venue, golden coins adorned berets, composed hairstyles and hung from a red cut-out dress like military medals, rewarding Marine’s impeccable taste. The emblematic moon print made several appearances, imprinted on a maximalist black gown resembling a comfy blanket or on a gorgeous black leather catsuit, yet the brand’s logo was rather discreet this year. The streetwear influences so dear to the creative director also left room for tailoring inspirations this season, with multiple silhouettes retaking the classic codes Marine Serre style.
PAULA CANOVAS DEL VAS
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images PAULA CANOVAS DEL VAS provided by the brand
‘No One Owns Me’ by Paula Canovas del Vas was a reflection of self-expression and limitation, the freedom to create, exist, and take up space. The collection was presented inside the Spanish Embassy. The audience was invited to write a message using a limited amount of letters. The project was inspired by Gillian Wearing, with the aim to explore authorship, anonymity, and control.
The silhouettes were sculptural, including geometric prints expanding into structured cotton shirts. Ribbed cardigans were paired with puff skirts, with each piece walking the line between movement and structure, fluidity and shape. For this collection, Paula Canovas del Vas’s mother created handmade fabric flowers using a technique developed in Spain. The flowers delicately adorned handcrafted Converse Chuck 70, Mary Jane and Knee High.
ZIMMERMANN
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images ZIMMERMANN provided by the brand
Zimmermann’s Fall 2025 collection ‘Hypnotic’ drew inspiration from the 1970s Australian mystery movie ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’. Like the film itself, the collection was guided by a mysterious spirit and the haunting, ethereal and romantic qualities of a dream within a dream.
Rather than taking reference directly from the film’s costumes, Nicky Zimmermann focused on some of the key storytelling elements. Dramatic silhouettes were layered with sheer organza and soft creams diffusing light and slowing down motion. Earthy colour palettes, iterations of snake print and jewellery were inspired by the bush treasures echoing the film’s majestic Australian landscape. Against the fluid movement of ethereal garments fractured polished stone jewellery and a new almond-shaped suede bag. The collection followed the film’s journey from innocence and light, transforming into something darker, expressed through colour, silhouette and movement.
SITUATIONIST
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images SITUATIONIST provided by the brand
This season, Situationist’s most beloved pieces were reimagined alongside new shapes and patterns. Structured leather, soft cashmere and wool, fluid cottons, knitwear and faux fur oats were complimented by leather footwear, sharp heels, and sculptural leather bags. The colour palette moved between deep reds, baby blues and rich neutral tones. The models were blended with friends and family of the brand, reinforcing Situationist’s intimate energy.
This season was a testament to persistence and creativity, and the refusal to be defined by external forces.
LOUIS VUITTON
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images LOUIS VUITTON provided by the brand
Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection brought us to the 19th-century rail travel at the L’Étoile du Nord, telling a story about transportation and the meaning contained in that word: adventure and enchantment, the hopefulness of love or the melancholy of separation, the enthusiasm of departure or the comfort of return.
This season, the House reprised a chapter devoted to its timeless, iconic luggage, creating a new style defined by soft colours and fine lines. The collection featured 1980s-flavored shoulders and handbags, lace slip dresses, skirts with ruffled layers, see through rain coats, and nylon jackets. Louis Vuitton collaborated with the electro group Kraftwerk. The album Trans-Europe Express made an appearance in several looks, while the title itself influenced the overall spirit of the collection.
DAWEI
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images DAWEI provided by the brand
DAWEI’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection was titled ‘Restrained Tension’: “Narrow space, plain settings, mild light, gently raised jaw, slightly lifted arms... All the restraints are designed to achieve the tension of lines and silhouettes.”
The collection featured wool vests, strapless tops, cape dresses, high-rolled sleeves hiding a classical court sense, but when they’re put down, the comfortable fit came back immediately. The shoulder structure hidden in the shirt linings weakened the sharpness of the angle bringing a sense of space. The tones moved between grey, khaki, and military green, in classic styles like the iconic functional tech fabric.
Dawei Sun took inspiration from Irving Penn, one of the twentieth century’s great photographers, and his use of extremely simple scenes highlighting the inner temperament of the characters and the outer charm of the clothes - “In the 1950s, retreating in order to advance, the legendary photographer Irving Penn raised his camera to freeze the elegant moment of the model, stripping away all distractions.”