PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 9
editors MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
CHANEL
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
all images CHANEL provided by the brand
While still on a hunt for its next creative director, Chanel presented a frivolous FW25 collection whose refinement and elegance stayed unmatched this season. In its forever home that is the Grand Palais, garments light as air offered us an interplay between size, length and shape while retrieving emblematic codes, further exploring the House’s century-old legacy.
We are not so sure that diamonds are a girl’s best friend anymore, as pearls gave them a serious run for their money positioning themselves as the headliner of this collection. We fell in love with a crossbody bag made entirely of huge pearls, inviting endless romanticism to the runway. Long transparent mesh skirts worn over miniskirts or shorts offered an interesting take on layering, one that stays true to Chanel’s graceful identity. A gorgeous pleated powder pink dress with adorable bows brought sublime movement also thanks to her delicate matching cape going over the shoulders. Soft greens, bright red and dark olives counterbalanced Chanel’s iconic black and whites, refusing to let the cold autumn gloom our sparkle.
MIU MIU
review by ELIANA CASA
all images MIU MIU provided by the brand
Forget the clean girl aesthetic—Miuccia Prada has just introduced the “Cool Grandma Core,” and we’re already obsessed. With this FW25 collection, Miu Miu took us straight back to the 60s, with references that went beyond just the nostalgic soundtrack. The vintage tailoring and iconic hairstyles gathered into buns and voluminous bobs brought the past into a modern light. This season, Miuccia Prada elevated accessories to new heights. Structured, rounded hats paired with ear flaps, and fur shawls with pockets worn as scarves or styled as playful accents over bags, were the main characters. Brooches adorned wool suits, with the same motifs repeated across bracelets and earrings, adding a sophisticated touch in this perfect ‘Miu Miu’ movie.
The collection was a masterclass in layering overall. Signature looks included dresses—some with the flower print—layered over perforated tops, sweaters, or silky cone bras, with straps falling off the shoulder, revealing an almost innocent kind of nudity. The same geometrical cone shape was mirrored into long-sleeve tops over sheer skirts. Miuccia's experimentation with geometry was on full display. Asymmetrical zippers, layered tops, pants, or skirts, and sharp jackets’ collars created intriguing silhouettes. Checkered patterns dominated coats and skirts, while embellished high socks completed nearly every look. Glossy leather appeared on the runway, exuding sensuality–a far cry from typical sexiness. Oversized, genderless suits made a statement of their own: Miu Miu is more modern than ever, even with its retro roots. The bag of the moment? The Miu Miu distressed Beau patent leather bag, of course!
And as always, fur couldn’t miss the roll call: cropped fur jackets, long coats, and wool coats with fur lapels channeled the essence of every self-respecting Italian 'sciura.' The messier, the better—essentially, Miu Miu at its finest.
BURC AKYOL
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images BURC AKYOL provided by the brand
Burc Akyol’s FEM celebrated feminine strength, sensuality, and resilience. The silhouettes reflected Akyol’s personal journey in understanding and embracing femininity, expressing admiration for the women in his life, who have shaped his understanding of feminine identity. The models walked confidently in sheer see-through fabrics combined with bold faux fur and vibrant colours. Burc Akyoli’s interpretation of “Fem” was an emotional representation of complexity, strength, and the beauty of self-expression.
SAINT LAURENT
review by FIONA FROMMELT
all images SAINT LAURENT via vogue.com
You know what they say: save the best for last. And it has been served – Vaccarello delivered the grand finale of Paris Fashion Week. Closing to a standing ovation, the Yves Saint Laurent show was a striking blend of bold colour, and unmistakable strong glamour, set in a luxuriously marbled oval runway.
The collection featured sharp, broad-shouldered blazers and dresses in vivid colors, creating striking contrasts. Red with purple, green with orange, blue with yellow, all together were extremely chic, while latex with leopard and flower patterns added an unexpected twist. See-through lace dresses in deep blue and bright orange added a sense of sensuality, while pencil skirts were paired with blouses adorned with oversized bows. Grand dresses and skirts took us through a journey of both strength and softness, often combined with a leather jacket and a turtleneck.
The show was a masterful blend of the bold yet delicate, structured yet fluid, with Yves Saint Laurent continuing to prove that their legacy is ever evolving.