PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 4

editors MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

CHLOÉ
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

all images CHLOÉ via vogue.com

For this season, Chloé summoned the spirits of warrior women that infused softness in their strength, allying their raw nature and an ethereal aura. Chemena Kamali retrieved the hippie-boho chic aesthetic so dear to 2013 Coachella and added a modern twist to the whole thanks to meticulous detailing. 

Sumptuous dresses made of transparent mesh ruffling at the bottom told a thousand romantic tales, with flowing silhouettes that enchanted us to no end, completed with dripping fur scarves that held an inexplicably viking feel. Counterbalancing these modern Amazons’ garments, shiny long coats with elevated shoulders and elegant slip dresses brought a contemporary vision to the runway. Perfect addition to the looks were handbags adorned with adorable trinkets showing that the Chloé woman lives with her time while taking inspiration from the past, and we are quite fond of this anachronistic lifestyle.

OFF-WHITE
review by SONNY NGO

all images OFF-WHITE provided by the brand

Ib Kamara is a multifaceted talent – esteemed stylist, adept fashion journalist, and of course, creative director behind Off-White. Ever since he joined the house in 2022, after Virgil Abloh’s tragic passing, we have seen his vision for the brand slowly but surely come into full fruition. Evolving and elevating the house, while honouring its streetwear DNA, seems to be the fervorous motto. For his latest collection, titled “STATE OF RESISTANCE,” that same passionate energy takes over the Espace Niemeyer, as his militant legion of Off-White models strut the space with great force. 

Broad shoulder pads, stormtrooper-like motifs, washed denim, hooded parkas and poofy berets – Kamara puts together a rebellion that subverts traditional imagery of the Americana. Jeans are cut to reveal stars and in numerous looks the eagle appears in full glory. Here they shine in white, green, black, and red prints, while earrings in the shape of the animal are additionally flaunted in silver and gold tints. Moreover, the palette in combination with the eagle points to influences of Nigerian culture, which is further strengthened in superstar Burna Boy closing the show.

Kamara once again, from his work in journalism to his work as creative director, is able to capture the zeitgeist so poignant and precisely. With this season’s collection, Off-White invites us into a dystopian apocalypse where we must move with a militant poise, blending together politics with bold statement pieces in the process. Perhaps a sign of the times, but as the collection’s tagline reminds us: “Strength is found in those who refuse to be defined by limit.” 

RABANNE
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

all images RABANNE via vogue.com

Blending ancient elegance with flashing futurism, Rabanne’s FW25 collection was nothing short of an anachronistic masterpiece, where influences from every age beautifully collided on the runway. Ravishing fabrics offering mind-blowing textures came to agreement with an eclectic colour palette that wasn’t shy to make room for multi-colour dotted prints.  

As usual in the Rabanne house, shine and dazzle led the way in every form or shape imaginable, from fuzzy sparkling hats, to a gorgeous eggplant jumpsuit with silver sequins spurting out like a mermaid scales or passing by flowing teal skirts catching the spotlight. We saw a fluffy fur coat with thin silver stripes emerging from the lining, seamlessly blending in the knee-length dress made of the same materials, and sumptuous blazers with a double lining giving a “trompe l’oeil” effect. Furry racoon tails hung low on dresses and coats, moving effortlessly with every step while a long high-waisted leather burgundy skirt spread vintage nostalgia throughout the room.

CHRISTOPHER ESBER
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images CHRISTOPHER ESBER provided by the brand

Christopher Esber’s FW25 was a study in contrasts. Structure met sensuality, and restraint played against indulgence. Shown at the Palais de Tokyo, the collection explored flamenco influences through sculpted silhouettes, layered textures, and an interplay of movement and control.

Corduroy was reinterpreted through silk detailing, while gathered fabrics created sculpted yet wearable shapes. Ruffled skirts, belted waists, and layered jersey gave a modern edge to traditional influences. Shibari-inspired knots added an element of restraint, while upholstery cords wrapped around torsos, reinforcing Esber’s signature tension between control and ease.

The palette reflected this duality—deep navy, maroon, and mustard sat alongside soft sage, pale blue, and hints of metallics woven through velvets and lace. Fringed tailoring and glossy tortoiseshell prints introduced movement and texture, adding depth to structured pieces. Balancing tension and ease, Esber refined his signature codes into something unexpected—where movement, structure, and texture told one coherent story in perfect harmony.

UMA WANG
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images UMA WANG provided by the brand

Uma Wang’s FW25 collection explored the ever-evolving relationship between clothing and form, tracing how silhouettes shape perception across history. Anchored in sculptural volume and fluid draping, it balanced structure with movement, nodding to timeless ideals of femininity.

The waist was nipped, hips accentuated, and shoulders either broadened or softened, creating silhouettes that felt both historical and modern. Inspired by Piero della Francesca’s Madonna del Parto, Wang embraced the symbolism of the rounded belly, evolving it into a study of poise and proportion. Fabrics carried both weight and airiness, sculpting the body with effortless grace.

A palette of earthy neutrals deepened into black, reinforcing the collection’s quiet strength. The result was a meditation on shape and presence—clothing not just as adornment, but as a way of carrying oneself through time.

RICK OWENS
review by FIONA FROMMELT

all images RICK OWENS via vogue.com

From a soft white beam of light, we watched the models emerge – it felt almost transcendental. The air was filled with a raw 70s energy, a mix of western and alienesque, speakers playing the sonic creation of Iggy Pop (& David Bowie's) Mass Production. Apart from the fact that the models walked down a runway, nothing was conventional about this, not even for Rick himself. The father of alienesque shapes delivered, full stop. This time with a new, and hinted Americana approach to fabrics, reinterpreting some of his iconic silhouettes.

Massive, anonymous-looking collars defined the outerwear, while signature high shoulders morphed into oversized, rounded, or extremely wide variations. Pushing the rugged alien Americana theme even further, we witnessed a variety of denim fabrics merging or combined with leather and sheer paillettes, accessorising fabrics. We were so excited to see the frills from Mens AW25 return, this time on the women's dresses. Showcasing the ultimate jacket collection, we saw an array of styles going from leather bombers with exaggerated arms, short-hair aviator inspired jackets all the way to long coats with furry textures, luxuriously cinched waists, and sheer shimmering paillettes. Rick played into triangularity through shapes and cuts with asymmetric zippers, floor length denim skirts that were split up in the middle, and pants equally made into sculptural chaps. 

Textures were the true highlight of this show. Latex tassels were beautifully draped across tops, hoodies and dresses, almost feeling like a reference to skin – especially that one red top.  The incredibly crafted fish scale and organic inspired textures on skirts and dresses were that perfect interweaving of natural flows and futurism.

Rick truly has that power to inspire and create entire worlds in our minds, and this show was a cyber-futuristic western fever dream. 

SCHIAPARELLI
review by FIONA FROMMELT

all images SCHIAPARELLI provided by the brand

“The women in my life are lone stars—there’s no one else like them, and there could never be.“ Daniel Roseberry wrote about his inspiration behind his AW25 collection titled ‘Lone Star’. And indeed, amongst the fashion sky it was a lone star, one that stood out, one that is far away from others, one that feels almost unreachable. And most importantly one that inspires, and in the designers' words: “Inspiration cannot be replicated by fast fashion.”

It was an inspiring collection, indeed. Roseberry, delivered sculptural, theatrical looks that were nothing short of showstopping. This runway was defined by grand silhouettes inspired by the designers' childhood in Texas, opulent textures and reflective materials in the house's nature –– we witnessed unapologetic power dressing. Large shoulders on blazers and tops excluded strength and voluminous coats and dresses commanded space. The cuts reflected masculine archetypes while embracing the feminine divine. The dresses, skirts and multitudes of belts created beautiful silhouettes and cinched waists. Colours, fabrics and textural choices added another layer of juxtapositions. Satin, velvety neoprene, ostrich feathers, and specially treated leathers to create the looks of metal – what looked hard and heavy turned out to be soft, and what had an air of lightness turned out to be heavy. The brand known for their iconic and grand jewellery and sculptural accessories, did not disappoint and finished off the looks to maximalist perfection. Because, sometimes more is more.

ISABEL MARANT
review by FIONA FROMMELT

all images ISABEL MARANT provided by the brand

Marant delivered a collection for the cool girls— '70s bohemian meets 2000s Kate Moss, and we were so here for it. These were the looks for the girl who’s running late to the office, coffee in hand, but still serving effortless chic.

We were shown the It-Girl blazers with 70s shoulders and straight vests, plaid or denim dresses and a lot of layers. This show was giving legs – having most of the models walk down the runway in short bottoms and dresses, while tights made beautiful statements. Leather from head to toe, sheer lace dresses or tops, and a runway ruled by black and white, punctuated with bold red.  Studded boots, slouchy bags, and pendants that swung from ears and straps alike, completed the looks. The few men’s looks bring an Edwardian edge with a modern vampire twist.