words by ELIYA WEINSTEIN, EMMANUELLE PLANTIER, FIONA FROMMELT and NIA TOPALOVA
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

ACNE STUDIOS

all images ACNE STUDIOS provided by the brand

Reconstructing the archetypal menswear codes, Acne Studios presented their Men’s Fall Winter 2025 Collection at Paris Fashion Week, posing the question “What makes a classic?”

Continuously developing their signature voice, Acne Studios introduced their new collection placing emphasis on the physique – cut and cropped, wide and fluid shapes, reminiscent of 1980s memorable power dressing. Checked wool in mouliné yarns and bouclé were carefully paired with layers of merino wool and cashmere, while tailored flannel and supersized corduroy re-envisioned the classic menswear fabrics and silhouettes. Staying true to the brand’s origins, Jonny Johansson introduced denim in an even more experimental way than before, including fil coupé monogram and trompe-l’oeil prints. The central piece of the collection was perfectly tailored denim pants featuring a heart-shaped belt with the Acne logo. Pink and orange accents were added to compliment the denim and elevate the look, which remained a signature element throughout the collection. Revisiting the 2006 prints, retro elements were introduced in the form of vintage sportswear like boxing-inspired gloves, vintage flight heads, and the key look of the collection – the fur coat.

The footwear for this collection reshaped the classics once again, with the deconstructed brogue featuring a wide exaggerated toe, transformed into a heavy boot. And true to form, the hybrid denim boots emerged with a folded-over cuff of a pair of jeans. The metal rivet – a denim signature and yet another emblematic Acne Studios element, appeared on the belts and jewellery. A new Camero bag inspired by Jonny Johansson Polaroid-carrying was introduced to the collection. The bag was available in three sizes: party, regular, and weekender size featuring multipockets – a new shape for multifunctional use.

ISABEL MARANT

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If the Isabel Marant woman is strong, confident and radiant, the Isabel Marant man in 2025 is playful, polished, delicate but assertive. Marant’s Fall/ Winter Menswear collection was beautifully presented during Paris Fashion Week. We could clearly observe the dedication to her craft, in the finely embroidered elements on the shirts, alongside with the faded denim scattered with paint, the puffy jackets with signature panels, and the brushed mohair sweaters. The colour palette of the collection was ecru and beige blended with khaki and rust, deep grey and black punctuated by touches of pink.

Isabel’s vision remains as delicate as ever, always aiming to create something that makes you feel comfortable and secure, something that makes you feel truly yourself. What she has mastered over the years is never letting the clothes wear the models, but rather giving her models the space and freedom to walk calmly and confidently, adorned by her creations that makes them feel almost as if they are wearing a second skin.

LEMAIRE

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Get your binoculars ready, because it is time to let Lemaire fill your sight with wonder and desire. Like an air of New York City blowing in the Parisian streets, Sarah-Linh Tran, and Christophe Lemaire built the perfect wardrobe for a chilly autumn spent in the fast-moving city.

For this season, Lemaire celebrated the trench coat in all its forms. Worn open or buttoned to the neck, in shiny blue or a more traditional beige, it even transformed into a bag thanks to its internal straps. Silhouettes were fluids and free, anchoring the collection in a “whatever goes” mindset for our greatest pleasure. Long coats met bomber jackets and blazers, adorning dark hues to match our winterly mood. Special mention goes to the outstanding denim work, which looked almost leathery, truly pushed the boundaries of craftsmanship.

Predictably, Lemaire’s accessory game was otherworldly. We could not have ignored the House’s iconic croissant bags coming in various sizes and materials to ensure that you would always have the perfect match to your outfit. Peacock feathers were spotted on gigantic hoop earrings and the mastered headwear in the form of trapper hats and balaclavas for the ones that dare to sit at a terrace in winter.

3.PARADIS

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Set in a snowy decor worthy of the Chronicles of Narnia, 3.Paradis Fall/Winter 2025 fashion show was streetwear at its coldest. The slow pace of the music rhythmed the model’s walk and created an ethereal atmosphere beyond a regular fashion presentation. Teaming up with the luxury duvets and pillows manufacturers Dumas Paris, Emeric Tchatchoua presented a collection for the bold and the adventurous.

Puffer jackets dominated the runway, either embellished with crystals or inflated to the moon, while snow-covered garments brought a touch of fantasy to the sleek 3.Paradis universe. Matching white fuzzy hoodie and shorts confirmed that this collection was, in fact, made for winter and the colourful printed motorbike jackets proved once more the label’s avant-gardiste flair. We fell head over heels for a long white faux fur coat that could keep you AND a special friend away from the cold all winter long.

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

all images WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK provided by the brand

Walter Van Beirendonck has done it again, and this time, it was reminiscent of ‘Everything Everywhere All at Once’, alien edition. Models wore slightly unsettling long silicone alien fingers, perfectly tailored suits, and lounged on matching teddy bear couches. Prints were surprisingly subtle this time, woven into patterns instead of loud slogans. The accessories were otherworldly, among them a black hat with floor-grazing fringe paired with a furry black suit stealing the show, and dome-like hats and scarf-wrapped caps adding an unexpected twist.

Walter’s focus this season was set on rethinking fashion’s obsession with vintage. Blending centuries-old English and Scottish craftsmanship with AI visuals and 3D printing, he created bold new shapes that feel beautifully fresh. Oh, and those alien couches? A reminder that Walter isn’t just about dressing you—he’s about taking care of you, too. Fearless, thoughtful, and just the right amount of weird, this collection proves Walter is still light-years ahead.

EGONLAB

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Known for unisex tailoring and creating silhouettes for every-body, the concrete runway was filled with suits, coats, and oversized, monochrome looks. For their 10th collection, Glémarec and Nompeix explored mystical creatures as an exercise of rebellion, conveying a feeling of resistance and resilience through the use of materials and textures. This season was full of waxed denim, hair, leather and other exquisite materials. Next to large fur coats, full leather looks, hair necklaces and an incredible longer than life denim scarf, we were extremely happy to see the fur bags make a comeback, this time bigger than ever. Long coats in blood red, powder pink, or light beige disrupted the otherwise dark color palette of this runway.

With EGONlab having a reputation for its collaborations, the one showcased today certainly did not disappoint. The designers teamed up with Zadig & Voltaire and created one of the many highlights of the show, among them the brown and pink bags that the designers reworked with eyelets and long fringes. Let’s put it this way, we cannot wait to accessorise this winter.

SONGZIO

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Songzio’s SS25 collection was a rebellious melange of culture, values, and history designed around the piccadill. The cut-work lace collar was an emblem of class and privilege in the 16th and 17th century, now reworked as if by the exacting hands of Edward Scisorhands, breaking free from social status convention. Opening the show was an enticing mix of glittering tweed and black leather balancing perfectly with the highbrow and lowbrow dress codes. As the show progressed, we could see a radical shift from opulent velvet and thick wool to lighter fabrics like angora, satin and silk and with them a lighter mood. The billowing sleeves of white, cream and pastel oversized coats moved with the drooping energy of a melancholic Pierrot.

Baroque was deconstructed and decontextualised for the modern age through avant-garde silhouettes and patterns. Beneath grand volumes and rich textures, the layering created a mysterious allure with a depth of emotion. On a more subdued level, Songzio’s oriental origins bled through in fluidity and simplicity of forms, and experimental applications of fabrics highlighted the multitude of dimensions in each look. Dark powers were certainly in the air, manifesting in a physical fight between the photographers… Does anyone have the number for the fashion police?

LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI

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Dystopian runway? Yes, please! Always basing his collections on one book, Nouchi crafted “Sensual Edge” on the dystopian bestseller 1984 by George Orwell. Bold, utilitarian and sensual, this collection showcased sleek tailoring with sultry undertones creating a feeling of power and defiance. Louis Gabriel chose a muted colour palette, from deep blacks to soft greys and earthy tones, making it feel refined and raw. Combined with luxurious textures, the hooded silhouettes brought a sense of mystery.

Fur harrington jackets, velvet suits, see through tops and dresses were layered with long and oversized fur coats that draped elegantly over the models’ shoulders. Sportswear elements made their mark in the form of bodysuits and gym-inspired looks, with sharp muscle shirts as a clear statement of power. This collection is a narrative of sensuality and sophistication and, if they make another 1984 movie, they better dress the entire cast in this collection.

AMI

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A love letter to Paris, its heart and soul. An ode to Paris it was! From the rustic setting to the music and the soft daylight inspired light set up, the atmosphere was undeniably romantic, one could feel Paris at the centre of this show.

In the first act, we were drawn in by a beautiful saxophone solo. The first look was effortlessly elegant, like one would have expected (from a Parisian brand). An all white suit accessorised with a triangle scarf made from the same fabric as the top. Simply beautiful, as was the rest of the collection. Suits, skirts, vests and silk dresses in whites, browns, greens, greys and black combined with toned down versions of gold, rose and blue.

In the second act, the saxophone ends and a piano solo starts. It almost sounded like you could hear the snowflakes. Coats and winter jackets, which mixed elegance with a touch of streetwear now became the center of the show. The silhouettes remained sophisticated. The triangle scarves were the standout accessory, always paired with tops made from the same color and fabric, adding an extra layer of elegance.

Throughout the entirety of the show, all we could think about was how chic everything looked. These clothes would make you feel good and luxurious, regardless of the day or night you had. Effortless, elegant and eloquent, this collection was everything you need it to be, in and outside of Paris.

PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 2