PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 4
words by FIONA FROMMELT and NIA TOPALOVA
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
JUNYA WATANABE
all images JUNYA WATANABE via vogue.com
Father figure cast of models accompanied by the bass voice of Avi Kaplan. This Fall/Winter 2025 collection was a blend of Corpcore, Western, and Utilitarian influences mixed with streetwear. The runway was dominated by tailored silhouettes, plaid, and check patterns with clean, straight cuts in both trousers and jackets. Dress shirts and ties were layered under a range of outerwear, from brown suede leather jackets to plaid utilitarian coats, all featuring an abundance of pockets. This year's headwear was the definite standout. From androgynous wide-brim hats to beanies, fur trapper hats, and trucker caps, we want them all.
True to Junya Watanabe's signature approach, the garments featured a diverse and well-crafted mix of materials, including denim, flannel, leather and knit, expertly blended into intricate patchwork designs. Bold colour combinations broke up the otherwise dark color palette of this runway. We witnessed eye-catching, dynamic colour clashes, such as: loud neon orange paired with red, and deep blues paired with blacks. Collaborating with both New Balance and Filson added extra dimension of streetwear, including sneakers as well as rugged outerwear such as jackets, parkas, and various hat styles.This collection was a testament to Junya Watanabe's consistent innovation and style.
JUUN.J
all images JUUN.J via fashionnetwork.com
Juun.J’s Fall Winter Menswear 2025 collection was the perfect blend of exaggeration and refinement. The colours this season were muted tones of khaki, natural hues, orange, and black. With dominating oversized silhouettes, tailored pinstripe suits combined with ultra-baggy washed denim, this collection was all about deconstructed denim, drapes, and of course – fur. Extra large fur coats, fuzzy bags and dresses. Juun J took the fur obsession of this season to a whole new level and we absolutely loved it!
The Korean designer once again demonstrated his perfected approach to tailoring that challenges conventional silhouettes, in a way that feels fresh and experimental, balancing formality and functionality. His pieces are an exploration of identity, culture, and modern condition.
MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO
all images MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO provided by the brand
More than a fashion show, the Maison Mihara Yasuhiro was a complete performance that included live rapping and a transparent backdrop revealing the models behind the scenes. Edgy and raw, the collection dabbled into utilitarian wear with a colourful yet low-saturated palette and invited the spectators in a postmodern fantasy.
Following the season’s trend, checks and stripes made a noticeable appearance on the runway, meeting corduroy suits and unique bomber jackets in an eclectic ensemble. Denim reigned the catwalk, either distressed or deconstructed; it was layered with shirts, hoodies and blazers for an effortlessly cool result. Adorable duck-shaped purses and bags sporting cheeky banana-inspired handles were the touch of humour and irony that we appreciate so much in fashion, like an advice to not take everything too seriously. We absolutely adored the oversized zippers for their touch of maximalism, and the quilted leather high heel boots joined our wish list the minute the show was over.
DIOR MEN
all images DIOR MEN provided by the brand
This season, Kim Jones danced through Dior Men’s archives to convey the metamorphosis of menswear from the eighteenth century all the way to the modern age. While referring back to Mr Dior’s Ligne H, he transformed Menswear classics and couture into a refreshingly clean ready-to-wear proposition.
Strict and rigorous design may have appeared minimal at first, but nonetheless proved to be meticulously crafted and refined. Beginning with an all black, pearly pink and white palette, Jones captured the mystery and self-assurance of a Casanova. Opulent volumes in outerwear and trousers took their shapes from opera coats and robes, all materialised in noble fabrics. Silks and satins borrowed shapes from the Dior womenswear wardrobe, introducing the duality in contrast to the sleekness of crisp black leather. Navy blue, cool greys and browns introduced layers of light and shadow into the palette. Embroidery from the collection was inspired by Monsieur Dior’s SS48 haute couture Pondichéry look, recreated on a luxurious knee-length robe with delicate silver and glass beading.
Romance and mystery were emphasized by black ribbon masks that covered the eyes. Classically constructed shoes were highly polished, finished with a knotted satin bow on the toe that repeated those found on the outerwear. Bags, including the Dior Roller and the Dior Normandie, came in a softened version with shearling and punctuated by masculine silver hardware.
UNDERCOVER
all images UNDERCOVER provided by the brand
The Undercover FW25 presentation took place in a cosy and discreet room away from the frenetic rhythm of the Paris Fashion Week. Reflecting on themes such as deconstruction and repurposing, four impassive mannequins welcomed you in a sifted atmosphere very Undercover coded.
A matching red tartan skirt and jacket were like an ode to London’s music scene, while a look resembling Walter White’s iconic attire brought some fun to the collection. References were everywhere, thanks to the reversible tailoring infused with 80s electro rock energy. Printed puffer jackets are the next it-piece to have in your closet, and you cannot go wrong with Undercover’s colorful take on the item. Headwear was a game changer, bonnet, caps, beanies and even an angel halo complemented the looks and helped bring the vision to life.
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
all images COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS provided by the brand
Rei Kawakubo doesn’t shy away from the uncomfortable. This season, she brought us face-to-face with the stark realities of conflict, declaring, “To hell with war.”
Her Fall/Winter 2025 collection took the militaristic and made it anything but, transforming uniforms into bold statements of peace and resistance. Deconstructed field jackets, brass-buttoned coats, and tartan kilts were layered and collaged into unexpected silhouettes. The models—part punk, part peacenik—wore metal helmets decorated with flowers or wrapped in luxe fabrics, a striking contrast to the regimented aesthetic of traditional military garb. Even the finale felt rebellious, with multi-zippered shorts nodding to a punk ethos that’s synonymous with Kawakubo’s vision.
This wasn’t a celebration of war—it was a call for defiance. Kawakubo reminded us that even in moments of strife, there’s room for resistance, individuality, and the unrelenting pursuit of peace.
DRÔLE DE MONSIEUR
all images DRÔLE DE MONSIEUR provided by the brand
Drôle de Monsieur’s FW25 collection turned the halls of Hotel Intercontinental into a stage full of luxurious maximalism, with a frozen classic car centrepiece that felt straight out of a dream. This season was all about balancing sophistication and playful twist. The opening looks brought gentlemanly charm to the forefront: pinstripe suits paired with polished loafers, elevated by bold accessories like knit balaclavas and satin headscarves.
Prints definitely stole the show. From retro-inspired designs to leopard patterns and monogram logos, making every piece feel like a statement. Oversized scarves trailed dramatically and knitwear came with touches like attached scarves for added flair. The colour palette alternated between vibrant baby blues and burgundies, and rich earthy greens. The collection was extremely tactile, full of leather and satin details but also patchwork jackets and chain-and-tie pairings, which played with contrasts of structure and fluidity. Signature “Not From Paris Madame” made its expected yet impactful appearance, grounding the collection in the brand’s identity.
As the iconic voice of Edith Piaf closed the show with ‘Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien’, it is safe to say that Drôle de Monsieur delivered a collection that was both nostalgic and forward-thinking—a love letter to timeless glamour with a fresh, modern twist.