PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 5
words by NIA TOPALOVA
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
KIKO KOSTADINOV
all images KIKO KOSTADINOV provided by the brand
"I cling to nothing, but everything clings to me." - Damnation, 1988
This season a core influence for Kiko Kostadinov’s collection was the work of the director Béla Tarr, particularly Damnation (1988). With a strong focus on the eternity of despair, the movie depicts a pessimistic political and existential plot set in the Soviet era of disillusion and mental decay. Tarr's characters inhabit worlds where the environment constantly accumulates and infiltrates within an individual's essence and the fabric of their clothes.
The models embodied the characteristics of despair in their facial expressions, their somberly disoriented walk and the state of being, overall. The familiar atmosphere of Tarr’s films was recreated as well with fall leaves chaotically scattered on the floor. Motifs of traditional Hungarian and Bulgarian military garments emerged along with coins and trinkets, traditional blankets and tablecloths translated into heavy cotton jacquard, trousers and elongated balaclava hoods, as well as army boots in black and brown leather with embroidered lace guard. Many of the shapes and cuts were only truly revealed when a garment is seen from the rear or side, reflecting Tarr's tendency of portraying characters in constant motion.
WHITE MOUNTAINEERING
all images WHITE MOUNTAINEERING provided by the brand
White Mountaineering’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection embraced brutalist principles with a utilitarian edge. A muted palette, mostly black was punctuated by scarlet accents, allowing us to focus on texture and function. Knitwear took centre stage. From Fair Isle motifs to sheer, full-body designs, the softness of knit served as a juxtaposition to the ruggedness of washed denim and leather.
Collaborations with Reebok, Umbro, and Ecco introduced athletic influences, seamlessly incorporated into the collection’s utility-driven aesthetic. Pattern clashes, fur trapper hats, and ruffled details added dimension, proving that functionality and individuality can, in fact, coexist. Standout moments included low-crotch trousers, check-patterned outerwear, and sleek utility jackets that felt both practical and polished. This season, White Mountaineering redefined functional fashion with a collection that was raw, refined, and refreshingly wearable.
ZIGGY CHEN
all images ZIGGY CHEN
Ziggy Chen’s FW25-26 collection, VOLEISURE, brought a quiet sophistication to the runway. Against the mellow backdrop of a live trumpet, the show explored the interplay of natural and urban elements with an earthy palette of olive greens, deep browns, and cream. Deconstructed elegance was the main theme—oversized wool coats, asymmetrical blazers, and layered striped shirts brought a relaxed yet deliberate energy. Jacquard cashmere sweaters, inspired by traditional Chinese wood carvings, added texture, while washed finishes gave the pieces a lived-in feel. Accessories were couldn’t have been overlooked, with exaggerated wool gloves draped around necks and big leather bags balancing out the collection’s understated tones with bold, unconventional touches. Chen’s designs felt effortless and refined—an invitation to move between city streets and quiet escapes.
Y-3
all images Y-3 provided by the brand
Y-3’s Fall/Winter 2025 show brought the heat with a racing-inspired collection that blended futuristic tech and bold silhouettes. The collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto on a sleek, helmet design had everyone talking—futuristic and functional, it was a true nod to speed and innovation. The collection itself was rooted in dark tones, but splashes of red and orange adding intensity and energy, almost like fire against shadows. Special mention goes to Gabriette’s runway moment — embodying the dynamic spirit of the collection. Puffed tees with oversized shoulders explored new proportions. The set design, made of in techno beats and strategic lighting, amplified the high-octane vibe.
KOLOR
all images KOLOR via fashionnetwork.com
Kolor’s collection brought a masterclass in layering and texture to the runway, with a playful yet refined approach to mixing materials and silhouettes. Teddy fur jackets paired with hikers contrasted the puffer-style sleeves and pinstripe-backed gilets with chain details—a nod to unexpected hybrids. Muted, colourful tones brought a subtle vibrancy to double and triple layering. Wide-knit cardigans and ultra-thick wool sweaters added cozy volume, with V-neck pullovers and fuzzy slippers making recurring appearances. Pattern clashes and checked skirts layered over long trousers underlined Kolor’s signature unconventionality. Corduroy and nylon dominated the runway, from jewel-embellished jackets to ankle-skimming skirts, and oversized hats and low-slung overalls added a playful edge. Kolor’s unique ability to balance utility and whimsy made this collection a standout exploration of layered elegance.
KIDSUPER
all images KIDSUPER provided by the brand
Colm Dillane just took Paris Fashion Week to another dimension, and we’re still catching our breath. For ‘From a Place I Have Never Been’ collection, the KidSuper mastermind teamed up with artist Daniel Wurtzel to turn La Villette into a surreal dreamscape. Billowing fabrics, swirling air sculptures, and a runway that felt like stepping into a painting you didn’t know you were part of.
Hand-painted details, bold prints, and signature silhouettes were KidSuper through and through. On top of going beyond what anyone expected, Dillane gave us some exciting collaborations, which debuted on the runway. BAPE®, a famous Japanese streetwear brand, appeared in the form of BAPE® by KidSuper, which presented a perfect unity of Paris, Harajuku and New York. WILDSIDE Yohji Yamamoto, on the other hand, delivered tailored pieces with intricate embroidery. But KidSuper’s collaborative ethos didid’t stop here. Among others, we spotted: a technical metamorphic coat that transformed into a hammock with HAMCUS, a tailored exercise in precision with Kody Phillips or a hand-crocheted jacket crafted by Brazilian artisans with PIET.
The overall mood wasn’t just loud, as it might seem, though. Subtler tones and textures added a reflective layer to the collection, mirroring the show’s theme of stepping into the unknown. Underlining the theme was Ekaterina Shelehova, whose haunting voice soundtracked the whole thing and had the crowd feeling all the emotions.Colm wrapped it up with a little speech moment, saying: “I’m always trying to make the impossible possible.” Mission accomplished.