PRADA’S TALE OF BEAUTY AND ROMANCE IN THE FALL/WINTER 2024 COLLECTION

words by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

Conceived as an ode to the histories within fashion, the Fall/Winter 2024 Womenswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explores enduring notions of beauty shaped by the past. Embodying romance and delicacy at their apotheosis, it evokes memories linked to ideals of beauty that still resonate today. Fashion is a never-ending cycle of death and rebirth, where the present finds its roots in the past, carrying emotions that transcend time. "Instinctive Romance" illustrates the power of fashion to inform and define an era by showcasing the emotional impact it creates.

Contemporary garments are imbued with elements drawn from history. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, and knitwear feature twisted details and evolving lines, engaging in an ongoing dialogue with the past. Fragmentation is reflected in pieces sculpted around the body, peeled away to reveal inner layers. The silhouette is elongated and narrow, with skirts acting as facades of fabric, striking a perfect balance between fragility and strength. Fragile silk is juxtaposed with tailored wool, embracing the body in a direct celebration of femininity. Outdated norms are challenged through the use of traditionally masculine materials to express the inherently feminine.

The centerpiece of the collection is a sensual, bow-embroidered dress, a beacon of craftsmanship. The complex techniques used in its creation produce unique movement and shapes in the ample yet sharp design. Through an intricate process of cutting, ironing, and hand-sewing, 35 satin bows are meticulously applied to the sable dress in a precise pattern. The making of this delightful masterpiece necessitated 50 meters of ribbon and 13 hours of embroidery, which highlights Prada’s devotion to excellence and quality. The bow dress is a mirror of present trends and tastes, but it also holds meaning of revoked times that keep on sparking emotions and fascinate us. 

Prada’s Fall/Winter 2024 Womenswear collection poses important questions, transforming the fashion show into the initiator of a crucial dialogue with the world and its structures. Rather than serving as an intellectual exercise, it stirs emotions, allows feelings to be expressed, and inspires new ones.