THE BANSHEE CRYSTALISES AT THE MCQUEEN SS25 RUNWAY

For his sophomore collection at Alexander McQueen, Irish-born Séan McGirr stuck close to his and the House’s roots by channeling folklorist eeriness into the Paris Fashion Week runway. “The banshee is rooted in the history of McQueen,” stated McGirr, “but it’s also a story that I grew up with, so it feels deeply personal to me -something I remember my mother talking about in Ireland, describing the cry of this solitary, foreboding figure.” And that dark allure totally enveloped the runway. 

At École des Beaux-Arts, the collection was shown in a cracked liminal space with a misty layer shrouding the ground, adding to the mysterious atmosphere that McGirr intended to create.  The silhouettes themselves were just as spectral as the environment. Tailoring was twisted, sharp, and uncannily subverting traditional British suits. Dark colours were contrasted with light transparent ones, and lace fabrics showcased gloomy forest thorns entangling the body. Eyes of the models were further extended with a black eyeliner and face-covering headpieces added to the petrifying collection.

Wool and silk materials further accentuated the folklorist aspects of the collection and the colour palette was reminiscent of the various hues you could find in a gothic forest. White and black made up most of the collection, though the occasional muddy green and yellows, alongside bits of brightness, could be observed as well. Footwear and accessories remained close to British legacy, as the Sparrow boot returned besides the slim profile of the Flexion sneaker and brogue details imbued leather lace-up Crow platforms.

The most impressive look was a grand display of craftsmanship: threads crystalised on the contours and curves of the model’s body, with its surplus length following suit. Draping from head to toe, the look was a showstopping echo of the Irish Banshee; and if we were to trust McGirr, the look forbids an impressive future for House McQueen.