DOMAINE MURTOLI: A JOURNEY BACK TO CORSICAN ROOTS
words by MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
On the path of my roots, I reconnected with the land of my grandfather, Corsica. In search of new adventures and traditions, I had the immense honor of discovering Domaine Murtoli, an enchanted interlude, nestled between Sartène and Bonifacio and hidden from view. For over 30 years, Domaine Murtoli has stood at the heart of 2500 hectares of scrubland between the sea and the mountains, receiving the highest accolades and visits from the most discerning celebrities. Led by the passionate Paul Canarelli (also at the helm of the Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa with his sisters), the estate has thrived through the decades, continually offering delightful experiences to its summer guests.
Entering the domain is shrouded in mystery, starting with the discreet entrance, an immense gate that opens onto a seemingly endless steep slope, cultivating the secret of this magical place. We had an appointment at La Table de la Ferme at 10 AM to start the tour of the domain and discover the reception, at the heart of the estate’s hotel. Created in 2021, the soul of Murtoli is embodied in high-end suites and rooms, combining the charm of the old with modern amenities. Located in the heart of the estate's agricultural operations between the olive grove and the vegetable gardens, I was filled with a sensation of déjà vu. No wonder, I was in the heart of a village square: all the hotel suites are accessible and connected by an intimate square, reflecting the atmosphere and ambiance of a traditional Corsican village. I was plunged into my childhood memories, the sweet feeling of being in familiar territory.
Strolling through the estate's gardens and aromatic herb patches, I quickly realized I had stepped into a Corsica within Corsica. Nearly everything consumed here is produced on-site, creating a self-sustaining mini society. The phrase "from garden to plate" is not just a saying here; it’s the strict truth : Veal and lamb from the farm, fruits and vegetables from the garden, olive oil from the mill, cheeses from our sheep, poultry, milk, eggs, honey from our hives, fish and sea urchins caught overnight, herbs and aromatics from the surrounding scrubland, harvested by a wild plant forager, Florence Weis and soon wine from the domain's own vineyards.
The true charm of Domaine Murtoli lies in its 21 residences scattered throughout the estate, such as L'Eddera (ivy), L'Alivu (olive tree), and A Filetta (fern)… These seventeenth-century buildings have been meticulously renovated to preserve Corsican tradition and culture in every detail. Stepping into these houses feels like entering a familiar village home, yet they are true gems with their luxurious services, facilities, and decor.
This is where I realized that true luxury lies in simplicity—a deceptive simplicity that offers a haven of peace and an experience deeply rooted in the island’s traditions. Every material is carefully selected, and every piece of furniture is thoughtfully crafted by local artisans. The luxury is not only in the materials but also in the bespoke services: private pools, saunas, à la carte offerings including catering, massages, and sports activities.
At Murtoli, the worship of nature is omnipresent. This return to the basics continues delightfully at the table thanks to the domain’s three restaurants, each offering an infinite world of flavors. You can enjoy this either in the comfort of your residence through the Catering Service, or in one of the domain’s three restaurants: La Ferme, La Plage, or La Grotte.
I had the immense honor of having lunch in the shade of La Plage restaurant, inspired by a fisherman’s hut. We savored the day’s catch: grilled amberjack accompanied by garlic-infused zucchini, after a delicious signature cocktail from the domain, a gin tonic reimagined with Domaine de Murtoli’s gin, an assortment of 15 maquis essences, including myrtle, olive, and immortelle, all meticulously cultivated, selected, and hand-harvested.
After lunch, we enjoyed the domain’s private beach, accessible only by boat, a secluded cove where beds are scattered along the shoreline or, for those seeking more privacy or shade, under the trees. Our exploration of the domain’s dining options continued with a cocktail made with white Cap Corse in a unique and curious place, La Grotte. This magnificent natural cave has been transformed into a spectacular restaurant, with a rock cellar and panoramic terraces. It is at La Table de la Grotte where one truly feels the heart of Corsican traditions, transported by the beauty of its culture. Entering through the grotto, you are welcomed by traditional polyphonic songs, with the cavern illuminated by hundreds of candles. Exiting on the other side, you ascend the rocky mountain steps to enjoy a cocktail with a panoramic view of the entire estate.
We concluded our culinary journey where it began, at La Ferme restaurant, the estate’s Michelin-starred gem helmed by Laurent Renard. The evening started with a refreshing starter of tomato carpaccio paired with a surprising tomato ice cream, followed by the Tarte de Murtoli, a farandole of thinly sliced zucchini, and then the fresh catch of the day before the lobster and linguini. The nepita from the aromatic garden, which we had discovered that morning, made a delightful appearance in nearly every dish of the gourmet dinner, even in the dessert amuse-bouches.
Between the main courses and dessert, I had the chance to taste the estate’s sheep cheeses. It was delightful to savor cheeses that I had shunned as a child but whose finesse my more mature palate can now appreciate. I particularly loved the smoked sheep tomme. Renard elevates the local insular heritage and the estate’s produce with the techniques of French haute cuisine, offering the essence of Corsica in every meal, in all its simplicity.
Here at Murtoli, nothing is like anywhere else. Amidst this stunning natural beauty lies a profound message of peace. Murtoli is unique and atypical, a place and a philosophy that resonated deeply with me. It felt like home, evoking the sensation of taking a dirt road down to the river or heading to a friend's mountain cabin.
While initially, I wondered about the clients’ desire to experience something so familiar to me, I soon realized that the difference lies in the extraordinary services that rival the finest luxury hotels. Here, one finds the perfect blend of authenticity and sophistication, where the essence of Corsican tradition is preserved and elevated, offering an unparalleled experience of true luxury.
