LEMAIRE COLLABORATES WITH CARLOS PEÑAFIEL
words by FLYNN LANZ
The world of Lemaire continues to question the function of everyday objects by presenting Wearable Sculptures, a traveling exhibition dedicated to the artistic expressions of Carlos Peñafiel. This exciting new collaboration with the self-taught Chilean artist and craftsman draws on the intersection of artistic creations and unique fashion.
Lemaire has been collaborating with Peñafiel for over ten years - crafting two staple accessories born out of this relationship, the Carlos bag and the Egg bag. The exhibition proposes an exciting opportunity to unveil a series of allegorical purses that feature a bust, a shell, and a castanet, all of which are designed by Peñafiel and produced in a limited series.
Through the unparalleled and distinctive nature of this collaboration, it formulates a distinct feeling of sensuality and a desire for freedom due to its heightened individuality. These creations unfold in the exhibition as an archipelago of sculptures in motion that evoke confrontation to the unconscious via a selection of unique and evocative handcrafted pieces. Wearable Sculptures promote the absence of hierarchy, forms and counterforms, hats and masks, bags and purses, and images, both past and present through its act of repurposing objects.
Carlos Peñafiel has forged a unique artistic identity by promoting his creative craftsmanship, exploring various materials, techniques, and forms. By integrating his Chilean roots with art, Peñafiel began his journey in Brazil, where he was introduced to leatherworking before settling in Paris in the mid-1970s. Through his learning of leather craftsmanship, Peńafiel has mastered the form of molding leather onto wooden structures. This process requires dexterity and patience as the craftsman needs to listen to the capricious material in order to respond to its singular undulations - the material is stretched for several hours until it can grip the curves of the mould. This method allows for the creation of pieces that are a shell of desire and controversy, and an amulet that reimagines objects inspired by everyday life with an exciting and distinct understanding of freedom, strength, and delicacy.
The transition from artisanal creation of one-of-a-kind pieces to prototyping and accompanying manufacture within the fashion industry presents both an opportunity and a challenge for Peñafiel. Fashion has played a decisive role in establishing his artistic career, particularly since launching his first collaboration with Lemaire in 2013. However, through the creative intersections of artistic expression and fashion, it has enabled Peñafiel to bring his work to both a larger community as well as a larger scale.
Carlos Peñafiel’s work runs deeply within the branding ethos and unique character of Lemaire collections. This exhibit is on view from 3 to 23 March 2025 at the Paris Flagship and will further share artisanal techniques with the public, reminding us of the importance of fashion to be a space for creative exploration.