MEXICAN DESIGNER CAMPILLO ERUPTS IN NYC WITH HIS SPRING/SUMMER 2025 COLLECTION
words by HANNAH ATIRA
photography by SPENCER STOVELL
On Saturday morning amidst a bit of New York City gloom, at the top of the Lower East Side’s fan-favourite hotel, Public, LVMH prize semi-finalist Patricio Campillo presented his Spring Summer 25 Collection making his debut at NYFW.
While the weather outside wafted a calm and quiet ambiance over the city, the Campillo backstage was bustling with energy that could be felt erupting from the soon-to-be-presented collection. While kneeling to make a final pinning to a skirt, Patricio of Campillo graciously paused for a few moments to share more insight into his debut collection. The moment felt quite poetic, as the designer began to share how the nature of eruption served as inspiration for his collection, “In Mexico City, there's a very interesting post-modernist architectural movement that was inspired very much by the impact of what that volcano did. And that's always been very interesting to me. I think one of the things that was very important to me was this kind of duality between something very peaceful and serene versus how violent it can get, such as with a volcano and the processes within.”
Such exploration of serenity versus eruption was not only reflected in the garments that made up the collection but in the run of the show itself. As the show opened to a murmur of vibration and faint nature sounds, soft tones of tans, grey, and khaki took to the runway in relaxed and draped silhouettes. A silk collard shirt and matching pants fell ever so lightly on the model as the blouse was held softly together by only two buttons. A transition in sound to a rhythmic beating behind a trumpet cry, signified a shift in Campillo’s story, an important aspect of the collection. “The narrative of the show is to have everything, peaceful before the explosion, and then it just kind of gets to a momentum where it's all exploding. By the end, there's another moment of peace and serenity.”
Richer tones, ombre fabrication, and sharper silhouettes all signified the eruption. A textured leather top ejected from a model’s shoulder in an asymmetrical neckline, while a tailored washed denim set used colors and embellishment reminiscent of the beautiful mess created within the uproar. Continuing down the runway strong silhouettes and rich colors made their journey, from a boxy cropped snakeskin blazer, to marigold yellow and terracotta orange blouses that flowed through the air, finally, a leather top with draped folds appeared to capture a moment of moving liquid frozen into place.
Fabrication played a considerable role in conveying Campillo’s metaphor while holding true to the brand’s identity and intention from the early beginnings, “We only use biodegradable materials. We try to use local materials sourced from Mexico, so that we don't have a carbon footprint, or the least carbon footprint possible. All our washes are also done by hand, artisanally, so I think that is also something that is sustainable both in terms of environmentally and socially, because we're giving, high pay jobs to develop luxury garments.
As the show closed to a soft yet powerful piano tune Campillo’s moment of peace came full circle. Completing the collection was a sharply tailored black suit, slightly synched along the waist paired with tailored pants gradually flaring at the knee, while vibrant orange feathers peeked from the jacket’s lapel. A piece encapsulating growth and heritage, reflected Campillo’s sentiment in bringing his narrative to NYC, “I'm very excited to be showing in New York because I feel part of a growing community here. Of course, we have a community in Mexico City, but it was something that the brand needed, to build a community in a capital like New York. I think it is also a big moment for (us) Latinos to have our own voice. It one of the first times, through designers such as Willy (Chavarria) and Luar, we are breaking barriers and opening up a spot for us here. And not just that, but giving representation to, a culture that has not been represented in fashion for a very long time.”
A self-taught designer, Campillo has seemed to master a skill of incredible craftsmanship and a deep understanding of the translation of fabrication. Moreover, his ability to seamlessly infuse Mexican culture into each collection attests to a forward thinking sense of integrity, making the designer stand out from the pack.