MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 1

words EMMANUELLE PLANTIER, FIONA FROMMELT and NIA TOPALOVA
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

GUCCI

all images GUCCI via vogue.com

Milan Fashion Week opened with Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, and paying a special tribute to Guccio Gucci.

Taking place in a space shaped like the interlocking G illuminated in green lights, this collection marked a significant moment for the House, as the first one since the departure of Sabato De Sarno. As we listened to the live chamber orchestra conducted by Justin Hurwitz, winner of two Oscars, we went back in time and rediscovered the beloved House’s classics. Fluid silhouettes featured rich textures in the symbolic colour palette of earthy greens, red, rich purple, and yellow. The models walked in slip dresses, high collars, iconic headscarves that will always be a classic, oversized fur coats, and silk knee-length skirts. Clean lines defined the perfectly structured blazers, the mohair cardigans and peacoats, as well as the shimmering bodysuit covered in Gucci logo with a golden GG collar.

Stefano Cantino, Gucci’s CEO shared that this collection aimed to make a brand statement. The in-house team accomplished this with brilliance.This season, the House of Gucci came back in full force.

N.21

all images N.21 provided by the brand

For this season, N.21 further explored their unique identity by adding a touch of girly fun essence to their collection. Between delicate sheer fabrics and elegant accessories suitable for any occasion, the label established itself as a powerhouse of the Italian Fashion Week. We already know that every respectable it-girl will fiercely grab an item seen on the runway for her daily closet. 

While delicate pieces paired with chunky sweaters with imposing buttons created an irresistible contrast that left us on the edge of our seats, pastels broken with pops of red and purple brought to life a refreshing colour palette. Skirts, trenches and dresses hovered at the knee, keeping some mystery for the after party, and feather touches (popular this season) confirmed that the devil hides in the details. Metallic gold brought endless razzle dazzle to the catwalk, and the unforgettable ending on ‘Love is a Battlefield’ by Neil Giraldo and Pat Benetar got the whole room singing and dancing on their chairs.

K-WAY

all images K-WAY provided by the brand

From the office straight to the (outdoor) adventure, K-way lets you do it all. This year the brand is celebrating its 60th anniversary and for that, they took their runway back to the retro-futuristic age of the mid-60s. Blending sleek corporate silhouettes with Gorp-core aesthetics, the collection featured a palette of pea green and yellow, burnt amber, burgundy reds, deep blues, dark muted greens, white, grey, and black—an homage to the colours of its founding years.

This season’s lineup played with A-line cuts, tight-fitted functional fabrics, and sheer textiles. Outerwear being the focus and definite highlight of the show, with puffer coats accompanied by large puffer scarves, and an array of trench coats, from cropped to long, each of them creating the sleekest of silhouettes. Tight pants and bodies brought us back to the iconic workout era of the seventies. Skiwear-inspired looks and long-sleeved and hooded dresses embraced the brands’ signature functional textiles in retro hues. Always peeking through: shirts and ties, creating the perfect balance between practicality, elegance, and modernity, accessorised with either mini bags, baguette bags, or huge carry-alls.

The personal highlight: knee-length A-line skirts paired with matching cropped jackets, stiletto heels, and mini bags, making the windbreaker so stylish, I actually want to wear it to the office and wherever I’m headed afterwards.

DSQUARED 2

all images DSQUARED2 via vogue.com

It’s camp. It’s drama. It’s bedazzled. It’s loud. It’s hot. It’s DSquared2 and Doechiiiii.

Doechii just made her Fashion Week debut, and who better to do it with than DSquared2?! For their 30th anniversary, the designer duo delivered nothing short of an experience.

This collection was a bit of everything (in Doechii’s voice) but in the best way possible. A true homage to what the Caten brothers have built over the last three decades. Set in front of DSquared Bros Co., they brought out the big guns Or in this case cars dropping off some of the biggest supermodels of our time. Naomi, Irina, and Amelia stepped out onto a black-and-white painted runway that gave us a tour of the brand’s history.

Proving they can do it all, today's show was an era-extravaganza. From the cowboy and cowgirl belts, hats, a ginormous trapper fur hat, chaps, and frills to bedazzled disco queens and models serving fur realness. Leather on the runway carried rock influences and Tom of Finland references, while studs made a bold comeback—not just on clothing but also on platform heels, bridging the 80s and 2010s. Denim, rhinestone-studded jeans, and bohemian styles saw a revival, too. Classical elements such as stunning beaded gowns, and tuxedos remained stand-alone pieces. 

It was a grand show, concluding with a performance of Doechii and JT with the entire cast celebrating.