words ELIYA WEINSTEIN, EMMANUELLE PLANTIER and FIONA FROMMELT
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

JIL SANDER

all images JIL SANDER provided by the brand

For the FW25 season, Jil Sander presented a poetic collection balancing affirmed softness and delicate strength. Lucie and Luke Meier further developed their unique vision on fashion with an array of straight silhouettes, breathtaking fabrics and details so intricate that we did not know where to lay our eyes on.

In an atmosphere more eerie than a Perrault fairytale, textured sweaters adorned with 3D bows strutted down the runway in symbioses with a ravishing dress entirely made of (hopefully synthetic) hair . A beautiful ombré fabric embroidered with soft flowers composed coats, dresses and tops, transporting us to the heydays of the Ming dynasty. Sweaters sporting sequined plastrons glistened under the spotlight, while soft skirts blending lace, grey cotton and transparent mesh came to balance the whole. Our breath literally stopped when lingering shiny fringes appeared. Either as a top, a skirt or a maximalist collar, they infused the collection with a feel for nightlife, making you want to dance your heart away all night long. We absolutely adored the asymmetrical pleated skirt-trouser combo that created movement and twisted around the codes of tailor wear.

DIESEL

all images DIESEL via vogue.com

Diesel’s FW25 amped up street codes to full volume. Maximising everything, from set design to the textures and details of each garment. Creative Director Glenn Martens led sartorial rebellions and corpcore experimentation in a way that no one could, or would want to, ignore.

The first looks to walk out presented a contrast to the wild, fully graffitied space, including giant inflatables. Greyscale boucle, houndstooth and neoprene jackets were stripped of collars and hardware, with elongated peplum silhouettes and straight cuts commanding the room. As the looks rolled out, textures became more pulled and frayed allowing “imperfections” to catch all the attention. Exaggerating the unexpected, Martens has defined a DNA for Diesel that leaves nostalgia in the past and speaks distinctly to the present. Denim and leather were moulded into sculptural, 3-D forms as if stiffened in a fluid state, paired with bumster skirts and pants. Flocks and dramatic ruffles disrupted the grayscale in neon yellow, orange and pinks while toxic green appeared in fluffy knits. Plastic-looking fabric treatments added layers of high gloss over distressed washes.

Though fabrics that seemed to have been disintegrating and joker spray painted smiles may’ve suggested otherwise, Martens infused a childlike joy into his designs by playing with the fundamentals of what clothes are. By revealing slips and cracks of skin, crumpling and pasting shirts onto the body, imagining garments as an extension of human skin, Martens refused to accept the boundaries of fashion. Even the runway itself, brought to life thanks to the collaboration of thousands of artists across eight countries, is rumoured to be reimagined as a capsule collection soon… Of course, we are waiting for the drop.

MARCO RAMBALDI

all images MARCO RAMBALDI via vogue.com

Marco Rambaldi’s FW25 collection, titled “Memoria Futura” was an ode to the most cherished pieces in our closets. The clothes you love and that love you back, the memories to be recovered in the old and discovered in the new, the little details that become little comforts. Rambaldi captured the way legacy is passed down through generations by something as simple as the threads of knitwear. The collection drew focus on softness and care, styled in bundling layers with hugging sleeves wrapped around the body. The care in every weave and stitch shined on the runway, emphasised by Swarovski crystals between weaves, sparkling with the promise of a daydream. Precious pastel hearts and bows down the lengths of skirts and scarves, like those on baby clothes, whispered hints of the future.

Playing with the idea that a handmade garment may unravel at any moment, threads were left to hang and sway. Doilies, like those only found at a grandmother's home, were woven into oversized knits and layers with a careful but not too perfect quality. Around the ankles, Bata ballerina slippers came strapped tight, as if for a little girl who won’t let big shoes stop her from dancing. Interwoven with familiar warmth and comfort, the FW25 collection “is a love poem for you”, Rambaldi wrote in his show notes.

VIVETTA

all images VIVETTA provided by the brand

Bows in all their forms exploded across Vivetta’s FW25 collection. From little jacket closures and graceful dress decor, to oversized ribbons around the neck and deconstructed neck ties hanging like scarves - bows became a symbol of graceful rebellion. A classical “back to school vibe” was channeled through vibrant palette pops of red, blue and pastel pinks and yellows, emphasised with retro A-Line silhouettes, Peter Pan collars and preppy stripes. Double collars and colour blocking gave the appearance of vintage paper doll dresses, as if they were pasted onto structured outerwear and matching sets.

Vivetta challenged the elitist image of femininity, reimagining staples of a woman’s wardrobe with a joyful twist. Red polished nails, for one, were found tied around the neck and clutched in hand as purses. While remaining prim and proper, looks gradually felt more carefree. Pearl necklaces and bright floral embroideries disrupted the clean straight cuts and draping dresses loosened silhouettes towards the end of the show. Bows too lost their structure, holding their shape as if they were caught in a gust of wind.

Even the most respected woman can’t help herself to a little drama, that is perhaps why Vivetta has brought back cheetah print fur in a voluminous coat and accessories. The finale featured an unexpected, quirky track, capturing Vivetta’s ever youthful and unrestrained spirit.

ONISUKA TIGER

all images ONISUKA TIGER via vogue.com

Set in a long, narrow hall pulsing with rhythmic electronic music, we watched as models walked down the runway in a fast-paced stream, unveiling Onitsuka Tiger’s latest collection.

The brand known for its retro, sporty, and Japanese-inspired fashion gave us a modest and refined runway with a muted colour palette that spoke to quiet sophistication. With their take on bohemian chic, they embellished jackets, tops and dresses with beads while accessorising shirts with absolutely stunning frill ties. Outerwear ranged from soft leather coats to bomber jackets, blazers, cardigans and heavy knits. Studded handbags and sneakers accessorized punctuated the otherwise sleek, corporate and well-tailored looks. A definite highlight were the extremely chic mid-calf high brown and black leather boots with adjustable in-width belts. The modest and long silhouettes were gracefully flowing down the runway, reinterpreting power dressing with a softer, more textured edge.

FENDI

all images FENDI via vogue.com

For its 100th birthday, Fendi honoured its heritage by invoking statement pieces that helped build this legendary identity. A five star casting gathered to celebrate Silvia Venturini Fendi’s art between old-school elegance and modern takes on timeless garments. Puffy volumes met sharp precision, laying out the versatility that the brand displayed all century long.

Opulent and comfortable fur coats felt like a return to the beginnings of Fendi, back when the House was directed by the family’s loving hand. Oversized balloon sleeves were spotted on pleated knee-length skirts, bringing a vintage flair to the collection. Bejewelled cardigans met skirts whose pleats undulated like the waves on the Amalfi coast, and smooth leather trenches with cotton sleeves reimagined the forever classic. Mind you, trousers also brought their fair share of volume to the presentation, with equestrian-inspired trousers tucked inside thigh-high boots, nodding at Fendi’s eclectic style. We obviously could not leave out the chunky oversized beanies that complemented some of the looks, the ideal touch of modernity and edge to perfect the collection.

MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 2