MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 3

words AYA OPPENBERG, ELIYA WEINSTEIN, EMMANUELLE PLANTIER and FIONA FROMMELT
editors ELIANA CASA, MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTE

MAX MARA

all MAX MARA provided by the brand

Fierce, unapologetic and graceful were the leading mantras for MaxMara’s FW25 collection, bringing an irresistible monochrome elegance to the runway. Made for comfortable everyday wear, flowing or embracing the body, the garments embodied a carefree spirit at the crossroads between perfectly executed simplicity and precise refinement. Deep black and cold earth tones collided, crafting the perfect colour palette for the chiller seasons.

The superb blending of black leather, velvet and jersey evoked a super-villainess right out of a Tarantino movie with her impressive aura filling the room to the rhythm of her steps. Double loop belts completed most of the looks, cinched the waist and elevated the silhouettes, while heavy woolen jacket and skirt and fuzzy vests ensured that the winter ahead would be, in fact, cozy. A cropped jacket with oversized front pockets acted as an interesting take on hunters’ attire, and a long hooded cape made us want to crawl into it only to wake up when spring would knock on our doors.

BLUMARINE

all images BLUMARINE provided by the brand

David Korma’s first collection as Blumarine’s creative director was a runway full of strong fashion choices and confident attitude. Retrieving the label’s iconic hot and sexy vibe thanks to revealing outfits and statement accessories, this collection also infused delicacy and grace to the Blumarine imprint, with sheer flowy fabrics that felt like the last days of summer.

Femininity was magnified with low plunging V necks tops and superb corsets that pushed us to reflect on the relationships between freedom and constraint. The symbol of the flower made several notable appearances, as a buckle belt or maximalist earrings, bringing a hippie chic flair to the runway. Silver details led the way all presentation long, taking all the spotlight. Deconstructed denim also  sported distressed flower details, all in a quintessentially Blumarine way.

PRADA

all images PRADA provided by the brand

Prada Day is finally here! 

The superior duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons fed us yet another glimpse into their universe and we could not get enough. Keeping the same set as for their menswear show, the opening looks presented four rather minimalistic black knee-length dresses on messy-haired models. The attention immediately fell on the shoes—sleek pointy leather stilettos with a reversed seam, creating the illusion of craftiness, though we all know it is, in fact, craftsmanship. 

Though there were some clear visual connections to the menswear collection, this one seemed more elegant. Fur collars had more of a classical shape, and looks featured big round or pearl-structured buttons and ribbons, which were either purely cute and decorative or seemed to have a cinching effect over the breasts for more defined silhouettes. Dangling pendants attached to the necklines came back, this time more abundant in the terms of quantity and adaptation, often in the sets of three or four, hanging either in front, back or both. Gorgeous baguette bags with clasp closure proved that Prada is on the forefront of what’s hot. 

We saw a lesser of the rawness, but the themes of creating without overthinking were still very much present. The apparently too-big-to-wear skirts cinched to hold in place offered a fresh take on our love for oversized clothing, especially when styled with tiny tops and scoop necklines were just the right amount of sexy, revealing massive wreath-like necklaces. The shades of blacks, browns and mellow greens, yellows and pink were disrupted by psychedelic floral prints on a collection of simple relaxed dresses, adding that Prada flair. The honorary mention goes to a fur coat covered in a plastic-like glossy finish—something I don’t think we’ve seen before. 

What’s there to add, Ms Prada and Mr Simons are the ultimate reigning fashion power couple. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: ‘If the devil wears Prada, I am ready to go.’

EMPORIO ARMANI

all images EMPORIO ARMANI provided by the brand

For Fall/Winter 2025, Emporio Armani embraced playfulness within precision, presenting a collection that balanced sharp tailoring with fluid elegance. Set in a vast, dimly lit space with an upbeat tempo, the show revisited the brand’s signature masculine-feminine dialogue, articulated through a palette of muted blues, blacks, medium teal, and maroon.

Playing card symbols emerged as inlays, prints, and embroidery, adding a sensation of calculated whimsy. Silhouettes were structured yet graceful, with exposed necklines, sculpted shoulders, and fluid draping. Accessories reinforced the tension between classicism and modernity: beret-like headwear, short patent leather gloves, colorful scarves, and buckle-in-the-back belts punctuated the looks. Patent leather belts and straight-cut velvet ties lend further refinement, while footwear includes loafer boots and Oxford wingtips, bridging tradition and contemporary ease.

Textures took center stage, with burgundy velvet, soft cashmere, and glossy patent finishes enriching the collection’s depth. As the looks progressed, layering became looser, silhouettes softened, and fabrics gained movement, suggesting a transition from structured sophistication to an unbuttoned sense of ease. In this collection, Armani doesn’t just highlight contrast—he refines it, allowing rigour and instinct, control and fluidity to coexist seamlessly.

MM6 MAISON MARGIELA

all images MM6 MAISON MARGIELA via vogue.com

MM6 Maison Margiela dived into the mysterious nature of the office siren for FW25, with stoic models brooding in reimagined business attire and Margiela house codes. Finding harmony between the contemporary and timelessness, looks were completed with black out sunglasses and full length leather gloves. 

The focus laid on the shoulder, at times hanging with nonchalance to carve out a deep V neckline and other times with an expansive cutting angularity. Rebelliously reimagined trench coats and suit inspired dresses maintained a sleekness while falling comfortably oversized on the body and allowing space for movement. T-shirts and sweaters became bold statement pieces with daringly square silhouettes. The harshness of leather and straight cuts was balanced with hints of fur, ponyhair and NSFW see-through tops that referenced Margiela’s early years. Layers were understated with seductive touches of mesh slipped under skirts or over whole looks, a reference to SS1990.

The motif of sharp edges was carried through a singular pair of jeans with extended seams down the leg. A moody neutral colour palette paired taupe and dark sandy hues with cool toned greys and black, while electric pops of red and teal closed the show with a refreshing twist. 

ROBERTO CAVALLI

all images ROBERTO CAVALLI via vogue.com

Drama in Milan: We were sat in a dimly lit red hall, then sirens. The show started by ringing in the eruption of Pompeii, and down the runway came straight fire or lava, in terms of fashion anyway. Taking us on a journey, Puglisi told the story of erupting volcanoes and lush gardens by showcasing one of this season's most interesting collections, according to my notes. This show was such a refreshment and a personal highlight. We were far away from the office core and it felt like this collection was finally setting something on fire, a feeling that might have been a bit more muted recently. 

We saw bright colors and dramatic silhouettes walking to electronic beats, it felt alive. Velours, silk, lace and fur draped the bodies luxuriously. Big fur coats, dramatic shoulders, leopard and snake prints, volcanic inspired patterns, mermaid skirts emulating eruptions. At first, in bright reds and deep browns and blacks.

Then we traveled back to the lush gardens of pre-eruption Pompeii. Floral embellishments and embroideries, gold details and frills gave us a glimpse  of richness the city once had. The colors have shifted into bright yellows, blues and luscious greens. Gowns floated down the runway, while suits inspired by the walls of Pompeii added strength to the overall picture. This collection was a story of death and rebirth – a beautiful tribute to the late Cavalli, who left us last year.