MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 3
words EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
MAX MARA
all MAX MARA via vogue.com
Fierce, unapologetic and graceful were the leading mantras for MaxMara’s FW25 collection, bringing an irresistible monochrome elegance to the runway. Made for comfortable everyday wear, flowing or embracing the body, the garments embodied a carefree spirit at the crossroads between perfectly executed simplicity and precise refinement. Deep black and cold earth tones collided, crafting the perfect colour palette for the chiller seasons.
The superb blending of black leather, velvet and jersey evoked a super-villainess right out of a Tarantino movie with her impressive aura filling the room to the rhythm of her steps. Double loop belts completed most of the looks, cinched the waist and elevated the silhouettes, while heavy woolen jacket and skirt and fuzzy vests ensured that the winter ahead would be, in fact, cozy. A cropped jacket with oversized front pockets acted as an interesting take on hunters’ attire, and a long hooded cape made us want to crawl into it only to wake up when spring would knock on our doors.
BLUMARINE
all images BLUMARINE via vogue.com
David Korma’s first collection as Blumarine’s creative director was a runway full of strong fashion choices and confident attitude. Retrieving the label’s iconic hot and sexy vibe thanks to revealing outfits and statement accessories, this collection also infused delicacy and grace to the Blumarine imprint, with sheer flowy fabrics that felt like the last days of summer.
Femininity was magnified with low plunging V necks tops and superb corsets that pushed us to reflect on the relationships between freedom and constraint. The symbol of the flower made several notable appearances, as a buckle belt or maximalist earrings, bringing a hippie chic flair to the runway. Silver details led the way all presentation long, taking all the spotlight. Deconstructed denim also sported distressed flower details, all in a quintessentially Blumarine way.
PRADA
all images PRADA via vogue.com
Prada Day is finally here!
The superior duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons fed us yet another glimpse into their universe and we could not get enough. Keeping the same set as for their menswear show, the opening looks presented four rather minimalistic black knee-length dresses on messy-haired models. The attention immediately fell on the shoes—sleek pointy leather stilettos with a reversed seam, creating the illusion of craftiness, though we all know it is, in fact, craftsmanship.
Though there were some clear visual connections to the menswear collection, this one seemed more elegant. Fur collars had more of a classical shape, and looks featured big round or pearl-structured buttons and ribbons, which were either purely cute and decorative or seemed to have a cinching effect over the breasts for more defined silhouettes. Dangling pendants attached to the necklines came back, this time more abundant in the terms of quantity and adaptation, often in the sets of three or four, hanging either in front, back or both. Gorgeous baguette bags with clasp closure proved that Prada is on the forefront of what’s hot.
We saw a lesser of the rawness, but the themes of creating without overthinking were still very much present. The apparently too-big-to-wear skirts cinched to hold in place offered a fresh take on our love for oversized clothing, especially when styled with tiny tops and scoop necklines were just the right amount of sexy, revealing massive wreath-like necklaces. The shades of blacks, browns and mellow greens, yellows and pink were disrupted by psychedelic floral prints on a collection of simple relaxed dresses, adding that Prada flair. The honorary mention goes to a fur coat covered in a plastic-like glossy finish—something I don’t think we’ve seen before.
What’s there to add, Ms Prada and Mr Simons are the ultimate reigning fashion power couple. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: ‘If the devil wears Prada, I am ready to go.’