MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 3
words NIA TOPALOVA
editor and words MAREK BARTEK
PRADA
Babe, wake up, it’s Prada Day!
Despite the cold weather, a group of devoted fans gathered outside Fondazione Prada to watch their favourite celebrities arrive for Prada’s Fall/Winter 2025 Menswear show. Every season Fondazione Prada’s Deposito building transforms into something else, and this time it was a huge metal scaffolding construction with blue and white flower pattern carpet. With the construction fully filling the space, the guests were seated on multiple levels making this truly an experience on its own.
The show started to the music of Tuxedomoon’s Basso Pomade and the opening look presented a simple yet signature Prada style. Beige knitted T-shirt had a silver chain with an anchor attached to its neckline, bouncing off the model’s chest as he walked. Paired with classic slim black trousers in a slightly shorter than ankle length and pulled over ankle boots — but not just any boots. These were elevated pointy-toe, floral pattern, cowboy ones that instantly made you think of The Beatles meets The Hippie movement.
all images PRADA provided by the brand
Though the collection explored some very new themes, we can see certain elements from the previous menswear show being brought back for a further exploration. While many other brands are opting for more relaxed and loose-fitting outfits, Prada decided to stay true to what they have been doing for a couple of seasons now, and kept the fit rather sleek. Spring/Summer show had a very signature fit of sleeves and trousers being cut shorter than usual, and we could see this coming back, though not in such density but rather in only selected looks. The keeping-things- short trend was this time focused on outerwear, with a majority of jackets, parkas, puffers and coats being only waist length. We spotted a couple of exceptions but nothing went below the knee.
Named ‘Unbroken Instincts’, the collection went into the concepts of our most primitive urges of intimacy and security. This translated into the collection in a lot of different ways but one of the most obvious was the use of floral pattern, referencing the Flower Children of the 60s and 70s. In a variety of colour combinations and slight adjustments, florals were present throughout the entire collection, appearing from baby tees, shoes and in the form of flower brooches. As Ms Prada shared: “The idea of romance as something emotional and immediate, creativity without overthinking – and something deeply human. We were interested in the idea of instinct, in the notion of protecting and valuing our human instinct, and liberating creativity.”
Another strong point of this journey was fur. In general, fur has had an extremely strong presence this season, but while others used it in a more traditional way, Prada brought us an unexpected retrospective on humankind. Creating an illusion of big fur scraps being thrown over models’ shoulders in a very primitive manner, Miuccia and Raf go back in time and look for a true raw emotion. Raf noted: “There are many small gestures that are inexplicable, instinctive. Increasingly in collections, we do not wish to limit ourselves. What attracts us is the opposite – an unconscious dialogue between ideas, coming from everywhere, and then allowing them to sit together in a way that seems uncommon and new.” An amazing twist was a selection of fur patchwork tops. Seeing a technique-material combination older than a hundred thousand years on a runway felt surprisingly fresh. Among other fur spectacles was a beautiful shearling coat and a red puffer vest with fur scrap collar — a union we didn’t know we needed.
all images PRADA provided by the brand
Layering on its own isn’t so groundbreaking but this season it’s been really enjoyable to watch how different brands approach it. Prada did NOT disappoint. From layered knits to a layered puffer jacket, it all just worked. A gorgeous combination was a light pink and blue checked shirt layered with a yellow-red-brown checked coat. While the entire collection was carried out in the hues of black, white and brown, the accents of blue, green, red, orange and yellow truly pulled it all together into one coherently evolving piece.
As mentioned before, the boots were so unapologetically retro that I couldn't hate them. Coming in every colour or covered in florals, whether people liked them or not, they were the staple item of the collection. Among accessories, we cannot skip the big patchwork leather bags, anchor themed jewelry (also appearing on the boots), red sphered earrings or flower pattern removable hoodies with fur hem.
Every season, I wait to see what Prada brings, and every season I am astonished. Ms Prada and Mr Simons delivered a masterclass collection on creativity without overthinking. If the devil wears Prada, I am ready to go.
TOD’S
Simply put, Tod’s Fall/Winter presentation was truly an ode to Italian craftsmanship. Set in Villa Necchi Campiglio, Piero Portaluppi’s 1930s modernist masterpiece, the venue’s timeless elegance was the perfect frame for Walter Chiapponi’s vision—a collection that would send Tod’s signature casual style on an adventure full of texture, proportion, and artisan savoir-faire.
all images TOD’S provided by the brand
Leather, unsurprisingly, stole the spotlight. But this wasn’t just any leather—it was Pashmy, a satiny, pashmina-soft finish that turned wardrobe essentials into pure luxury. Bomber jackets, field coats, and shirt jackets all came in this buttery material. The smooth silhouettes were paired with either slim, cropped trousers or softer, sportier versions.
And as if this wasn’t enough, an unexpected nod to artist Joseph Beuys brought even more depth into the collection. His minimalist felt suits inspired the melange wool and suede treated to mimic felt, resulting in pieces that begged to be touched. The union of softness and structure made everything feel wearable yet impossibly luxe, the kind of wardrobe that works as well for a gallery opening as it does for an impromptu weekend escape.
all images TOD’S provided by the brand
Shapes alternated between voluminous and tailored, creating almost a rhythm that felt fresh and timeless. Oversized outerwear layered over sleek underpinnings had just the right mix of ease and sophistication, presenting Chiapponi’s aim to blend “modernity and tradition, softness and structure, art and design.”
This was Tod’s at its best—quietly confident, impossibly polished, and unmistakably Italian. With this collection, Chiapponi he crafted a lifestyle, one where functionality and beauty meet in every detail to tell a story.
WOOLRICH
Todd Snyder’s third seasonal collaboration with Woolrich Black Label felt like a love letter to the outdoors but reimagined for city life. The collection, presented in Milan at Woolrich’s Corso Venezia store, was both rugged and refined, blending the nature inspiration with urban practicality. Snyder, unable to attend due to a family birthday, described the collection as a “push-pull” between outdoor adventure and metropolitan living, and that duality was evident in every piece.
all images WOOLRICH provided by the brand
The standout was definitely the buffalo check shirt—classic Woolrich DNA but with a twist. Under the lights, the fabric reflected a subtle shine, achieved thanks to a collaboration with Italian mill Majocchi. It’s the kind of piece that makes you rethink the boundaries of technical and heritage wear, and honestly, it felt like a must-have for any modern outdoorsman navigating the city. Commando-style field jackets and utility pants in black and white technically treated moleskin balanced between military grit and country sportswear. An olive green ensemble with quilted pants and a Primaloft-quilt mix jacket—both water-resistant—were tailored for a mission, whether that’s battling midwinter commutes or trekking through volcanic landscapes (an inspiration Snyder referenced). Footwear choices like lug-soled Chelsea boots, trekking boots, and sleek sneakers completed the tough-luxe vibe.
all images WOOLRICH provided by the brand
The collection also leaned into texture and technicality. Think geology-print down jackets, berry-toned utility pants in sturdy cotton, wool workwear with Casentino-style pilling, and ripstop cycling blousons. Mid-layers in waffle textures and snowy-toned barn jackets offered a more understated charm, while quilted outerwear and sleek, water-resistant pieces made sure practicality wasn’t left out of the mix.
Snyder summed it up perfectly: “The sneaker has turned into the hiking boot, if you will.” This collection wasn’t about loud statements but rather about thoughtful design inspired by nature, made for life. With its blend of heritage and innovation, the Woolrich Black Label collaboration proved once again that rugged luxury is here to stay.
SAUL NASH
Saul Nash made his Milan Fashion Week debut with the collection METAMORPHOSIS. Through his movement-based designs with functionality always at the core, he continues to venture beyond the sportswear from which he created his name.
all images SAUL NASH provided by the brand
The name of the collection, Metamorphosis, spoke for itself, as the designs were all about transformation—allowing the models to change their silhouette through shape-shifting garments. A dual-colour oversized cupro shirt featured an asymmetric fastening that could be tied at the collar to change its shape. Similarly, a recycled nylon pullover jacket had snap closures at the wrist, paired with zip-through trousers, and completed with built-in belt loops—a signature of Nash's designs. Another standout piece was a classic pinstripe wool suit jacket that unzipped into a hoodie, further emphasising Nash's philosophy of allowing the wearer to shed old identities. “It’s about having the permission to allow yourself to be free, to shed an old part of yourself,” said Nash.
all images SAUL NASH provided by the brand
Material manipulation was key for this collection, with items like zip-up jackets and wide-leg trousers made from tri-acetate velour. Protective Oxford shirts in waterproof cotton ripstop were paired with tops made from sheer TENCEL™ and wool-blend stretch fabric. Footwear throughout the collection was provided by REFERENC Studios, completing the functional yet refined vision of Nash.
Nash is set to launch a multi-season collaboration, SLNSH, with lululemon on March 11, 2025. During his Milan Fashion Week show, he presented selected looks from SLNSH, including form-fitting mesh tops, leggings, and dynamic outerwear like a jacket that unbuttons into a short-sleeve shirt. A standout accessory from the collaboration was a leather-alternative handbag that could be worn as both a hand bag and a fanny pack.