RECAP OF THE WEEK BY NUMÉRO NETHERLANDS
editor MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
words ELIANA CASA
This week was all about existential dilemmas, and needless to say, it was hard to keep up with the overwhelming flood of news. Is Jonathan Anderson really leaving Loewe after thirteen years at the helm of the Spanish House? Is TikTok really shutting down all operations in the US? Are the Oscars even happening?
Sunday is that day of the week when everyone can finally pause and make sense of it all (including the hangover from the ‘I had too many wines last Saturday’).
Well, if for some questions we may not have the answers, for the others we can certainly piece them all together in our beloved weekly recap.
LOUIS VUITTON DEBUTS FIRST CAMPAIGN FEATURING BLACKPINK’S LISA
K-pop sensation Lisa from BLACKPINK is the new face of Louis Vuitton, starring in a campaign that is making all her fans shake from their seats. The global icon appears in four distinctive looks that seamlessly fuse her bold personal style with the timeless elegance of Louis Vuitton. Each ensemble perfectly captures Lisa’s energy: a chic black dress with crisp white collars paired with sleek capri pants, a sporty shirt layered with a striking red-and-blue striped jacket, a mini dress that expands into a voluminous skirt with intricate beaded embellishments, and a stunning white sleeveless dress featuring gathered detailing, a high neckline, and a sheer tulle hemline. Playful pops of color and meticulous attention to detail bring each look to life.
JACK MCCOLLOUGH AND LAZARO HERNANDEZ EXIT PROENZA SCHOULER
Only a few weeks ahead of the New York Fashion Week, the news of Proenza Schouler’s founders, and creative directors, Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez leaving the brand, struck us in an unpleasant, yet unexpected way. The brand - born in the bedroom of the two Parsons School of Design’s designers, in their early twenties - has shaped the fashion industry for over two decades with collections featuring just some of their statement pieces. We are talking about those dip-dyed velvet day dresses, pleated midi skirts, tie-dyed tees, bustier tops and dresses that are still forged in our minds. Fate, sometimes, can do incredible things, and that’s exactly Proenza Schouler’s story. Hernandez, who found himself on the same plane as Anna Wintour, handed her over a napkin with some notes. Two weeks later, an internship at Marc Jacobs was offered to him. Later on, their graduation collection was bought by Barneys’ fashion director and scout at the time, and showcased in the agenda-setting New York department store.
Listen up new upcoming and emerging designers - a new position is waiting for you, as the designers are now looking for a fellow visionary creative to replace their sit and fill up the pages of Proenza Schouler’s story - a story made of hard work, technique, craftsmanship, and streetwear.
OLIVIERO TOSCANI PASSES AWAY AT THE AGE OF 82
If some news are unpleasant, others are just heartbreaking. The man behind the 80’ and 90’s shocking advertising campaigns, Oliviero Toscano, passed away last week due to a rare and incurable health condition. You might remember those photos portraying dying AIDS patients, a priest kissing a nun, the blood-drenched clothes of a soldier killed in Bosnia. Other ads promoting the Italian brand, United Colors of Benetton showing a Black woman breastfeeding a white baby, and much more. Oliviero was a giant in and outside the fashion industry. He not only worked as art director for Benetton in the early 80s, and helped the brand to rise and shine, but his works were published in some of the most remarkable fashion magazines, elevating the image of models like Monica Bellucci. Toscani belongs to that generation of photographers, who used the camera as a transfer to convey political and social messages, and turned photography into an art tool. A true visionary who wasn’t afraid to challenge the audiences’ with uncomfortable topics, and open up even more delicate conversations with the world – especially in an industry like fashion, that, often and frequently, forgets to be part of them. In a statement, he said: “I exploit clothing to raise social issues. Traditional advertising says if you buy a certain product you will be beautiful, sexually powerful, successful. All that bullshit doesn’t really exist.”
MM6 MAISON MARGIELA UNVEILS FW25 AT PITTI UOMO
Prior to Milan Men’s Fashion Week, all male ready-to-wear enthusiasts gather in Florence for the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo. This year, something that felt almost nostalgic happened. In a beautiful and intimate botanical garden, Giardino Dell’Orticoltura, right on the outskirts of Florence, MM6 Maison Margiela was invited as a guest designer to showcase the new FW25 collection. As models strut down inside the antique greenhouse, references from Maison Martin Margiela’s Pitti Uomo FW 2006 show were crystal clear, just like the glasses surrounding the runway. Instead of exploring the whites, the new collection was what many considered a true manifesto of a redefined masculinity, who is not afraid to be vulnerable in its sensuality. In this intertwining of layers, clear references to the musician’s wardrobe, Miles Davis appeared on the runway, like the pagoda shoulders, or the bold aqua suit. Embracing the richness of tones like black, and burgundy, elements like faux mink, lurex, modular gloves and leather showcased
UNDERCOVER TEAMS UP WITH LEVI’S
Undercover uncovered one of the coolest collaborations with Levi’s, reminding us all that punk is not dead. The new collection brings together UNDERCOVER’s signature aesthetic by designer Jun Takahashi and a vintage feeling with Levi’s®. The 6-piece capsule collection feels like a tribute to the Japanese brand UNDERCOVER, the result of the designer’s love for punk. A mix of music, subculture, art, and streetwear are reflected in jackets with detachable zip, details like the mixed and matched sleeves and collars, and the text ‘light’ and ‘darkness’ imprinted on denim jackets and pants, echoing the typical rebel attitude. An attitude brought to life by the Red Hot Chili Peppers’ bassist who starred as model for the campaign, photographed in Malibu by his daughter, Clara Balzary.
KIKO KOSTADINOV TEAMS UP WITH FOX RACING ON UNISEX CAPSULE COLLECTION
Speaking of boldness, Kiko Kostadinov has partnered with Fox Racing to create a bold unisex capsule collection that seamlessly merges high fashion with cutting-edge streetwear. The collaboration brings together Kostadinov’s distinctive design sensibility and Fox Racing’s iconic motocross-inspired style. Featuring a mix of functional outerwear, bold graphics, and technical fabrics, the collection balances practicality with avant-garde design. Each piece is designed to transcend traditional gender boundaries, making every piece versatile and inclusive. And if you were doubting if fashion, and sports can be in the same line, then the answer is yes.
MAC MILLER BALLOONERISM AND SHORT FILM IS RELEASED
Some artists are immortal, and their artistry resonates long after they are gone. The long-awaited Balloonerism short film by the late Mac Miller has finally been released, offering fans a profound visual extension of his music. The film captures the essence of Miller's artistry, blending surreal imagery with deep emotional layers that reflect his unique creative vision. Tying together the themes of his album, the short film uses symbolism and intimate moments to explore freedom, introspection, and transformation. Through Balloonerism, Miller invites viewers into his world, delivering an immersive experience that not only honors his legacy but also offers a poignant glimpse into the artistry that defined his career.
