PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 3
editors MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK
COURRÈGES
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images COURRÈGES provided by the brand
For Fall/Winter 2025, Nicolas Di Felice channeled Courrèges’ radical optimism into a collection shaped by motion, instinct, and celebration. ‘One Minute Courrèges’ unfolded in fluid fabrics curled around the body and creating a fleeting moment of silhouettes caught mid-transformation. Slanted angles and asymmetric closures subverted house codes, shaping the trapeze mini, biker, and tank top into something new, yet deeply familiar.
From snap-button embroidery, confetti-speckled tweed to sculptural ostrich feathers textured focused on heightening the tension between formality and festivity. Dresses took shape from billowing confetti-like folds, and the leek, elongated Cuff Bag moved this season from shoulder to wrist, reflecting the collection’s sense of motion.
The runway became a space for unity and joy, where movement played in reverse—confetti swirling upward, a white flag catching the wind. Against a remix of Chantal’s ‘The Realm', the show unfolded like a whirlwind revelry, echoing Courrèges’ vision of fashion as a message—abstract, instinctive, and full of possibility.
ROCHAS
review by SONNY NGO
all images ROCHAS provided by the brand
Rochas is turning 100 this year and what better way to celebrate than with a grand soirée. Paying homage to Helen Rochas’ ball at the Grand Cascade de Bois de Boulogne, this collection conveys a similar grandeur all whilst remaining confident, elegant, and self-expressive.
Textures, textures, and textures; the pieces in this collection frolic from one to the other with playful exuberance. From wool and shimmering lace to glossy mikado and printed silk, the material here is diverse and vibrant all the way through. Accompanied by a colour palette that includes a perfect harmony of velvety browns, smokey greys, and midnight blues, the looks carry a refined taste. What brings them to life, however, are the fluid and smooth shapes. Inspired by iconic swan imagery, precise tailoring and cuts give strength to shoulders, while hips are accentuated with fitting grace. Careful use of feathery textures complete the looks with a final ethereal touch – we are once more ready for a grand ball!
THE ROW
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
all images THE ROW provided by the brand
It was in a softly lit room with an intimate atmosphere that the Row decided to present its FW25 collection, respecting the discreet and exclusive values that makes the label an innovating pioneer in the industry. Staying true to the quiet luxury style that made them so popular across the fashion sphere, this collection is all about simplicity, timelessness and durable garments, the kinds that you will find in your closets more than 20 years after its purchase.
On the neatly ordered rakes, a succession of cashmere sweaters with rounded sleeves hung next to sleek trenches and soft scarves with fringes multiplying at the bottom. The whole conveyed an almost Scandinavian feel, and we could definitely hold the sharp silhouettes, effortless elegance and a touch of inexplicable coolness accountable for giving us this impression. Tailoring infused some feminine affect to its silhouette, with some draped looks that invited radical softness, while reimagined leather tote bags charmed us with their spherical shaping.
CASABLANCA
review by AYA OPPENBERG
all images CASABLANCA via vogue.com
Titled Kaizen, Casablanca’s FW25 collection took inspiration from the Japanese philosophy of continuous improvement, blending structure with evolution and discipline with play. Kaizen—a fusion of kai (change) and zen (goodness)—perfectly exemplified in the show’s balance of power dressing, sportswear, and whimsical aesthetics.
Casablanca FW25 was an exploration of influences, textures, and silhouettes that brought together tailoring and a heavy nod to Japanese and kawaii aesthetics. To introduce the show, the room filled with the iconic sound of Enya’s Orinoco Flow, an ethereal choice that set a dreamy, cinematic tone, contrasted against the blue fluorescent lights that bathed the runway.
At first glance, the collection leaned into structure and strength: power suits, long tailored coats, and workwear staples in a muted palette of green, gray, and white. But Casablanca’s signature playfulness was never far behind. Bow motifs added a whimsical touch, appearing oversized and dramatic, or delicate and elegant, complementing the cutouts at the waist of dresses, which provided subtle sensuality. Silk shirts returned with a fresh take on Casablanca’s signature motifs, paired with brooches, pouches, and sunglasses that were part of every look.
Then came the unexpected. Sport and street fused seamlessly, with ski ensembles, jogger suits, and moto-inspired leather looks. Ski goggles and even physical skis doubled as accessories, while kawaii details—crochet tops, animal-ear hats, sheer calf socks—infused fantasy. Casablanca’s menswear-heavy approach this season was hard to miss. The show leaned heavily on sharp tailoring, structured outerwear, and short-sleeve skirt silhouettes that nodded toward gender-fluid styling. This season Casablanca took its signature codes and stretched them across new terrains, proving that refinement and fun aren’t mutually exclusive.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
review by AYA OPPENBERG
all images DRIES VAN NOTEN via vogue.com
A sip of menthe tea set the tone for a collection submerged in Mediterranean warmth. Scarves replaced hairstyles, reminiscent of effortless headwraps, while oversized coats enveloped the body, detailed with lace-leather straps that reappeared sculpting blazer jackets with wide, cinched belts.
An affluent palette of deep purples, terracotta, and the same burnt orange you would find in a Moroccan souk, woven into textured jacquards and fluid draping. Luxurious green velvet wrapped around necks, while shimmering plastic scales caught the light—suggesting movement, like fish gliding beneath the surface. Throughout, delicate pearlescent embellishments referenced rare gems traded in the medinas.
The collection was defined by sharp tailoring contrasted with flowing silhouettes, structured capes with cascading layers, and embroidery reminiscent of Berber textiles merged with contemporary cuts. Fur seemed feather-light, dusting coats, bags, and shirts in wisps of white and grey, while pompon-like details echoed the handcrafted textures of traditional rugs.
This season marked a new chapter for the house’s creative direction—a debut that felt deeply rooted, yet refreshingly forward-looking.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
review by ELIYA WEINSTEIN
all images STELLA MCCARTNEY via vogue.com
One thing to expect at Stella McCartney is all vegan materials, but what she is able to produce with them is always a surprise. Her FW25 collection focused on “exotics”, materials that are always under question in the media - except all were manufactured out of fungi mycelium, recycled polyester and bio based polyurethane.
McCartney’s exploration of this material, named Yatay M, allowed her to introduce python and ostrich leather into a bold collection. Her silhouettes swayed distinctively 80s, with bold shoulders and cinching waists, balanced with the nonchalant oversized cuts of contemporary clothing. The snakeskin patterns were cut into high-neckline structured tops, one tucked into a cylindrical imitation snakeskin skirt. Deep-V neckline double-breasted blazers, low hanging coats and tailored pants turned slouchy gave the collection an office wear tone, but Stella isn’t all work. Silly draped dresses, revealing lace panels, and glittering tassels made with Sequinova plant-based sequins transitioned it to the after-hours dance party.
The show took place in an office-decorated space and the models carried large McCartney bags, including the Ryder and Falabella, but ended with male and female pole dancers turning up the NSFW factor. The collection was for the woman who does it all, she works hard but she knows how to let loose and have fun at the end of the day.
ACNE STUDIOS
review by FIONA FROMMELT
all images ACNE STUDIOS provided by the brand
A brutalist dreamscape meets raw Swedish nature— it feels cold, grey, and unforgiving, but not this collection. Juxtaposing the stark background, we saw refreshingly saturated colors, and a playful and mischievous collection.
Warm browns, deep blues and fiery reds combined with the shades of grey, black and white. Rounded shoulders and a plush, almost hairy texture was ever-present throughout this collection, on massive coats, vests, dresses or high-waisted long-sleeved bodies. Sheer, patterned dresses cinched with bowed belts met thigh-high boots,looking effortlessly elegant. Long scarves playfully turned into tops, dresses or even floor-long capes. Then came in tight and monochrome matching leather looks. Latex pencil skirts were combined with bright knitted tops and bows.
The shoes added another dimension of fun to the collection: from elegant pumps and cosy-looking fluffy flat knee high boots, to tight high leather pumps. The bags were the cherry on the top, tying the looks all together: massive weekenders, furry carryalls and leather office flap bags. Accessories were dominated by size and length. Big bows wrapped around necks, adorned ears, and draped down dresses. Earrings took shape as oversized bows, pens, and geometric forms. Chain necklaces featured ribbons knotted like bows, while some accessorized long dresses as a play on Nordic knit patterns.
A collection of contrasts—strong yet soft, structured yet free, bold yet playful. Acne in full force.
TOM FORD
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images TOM FORD provided by the brand
It is safe to say that Haider Ackermann’s debut for Tom Ford was first and foremost a seduction. He told the press backstage, “I hope I seduced you all,” and in all honesty, mission accomplished. This was a different kind of Tom Ford, one that exchanged overt sexuality for a more elusive, elegant sensuality, all while respecting the DNA of the house.
Ackermann is no stranger to a breathtaking runway moment. His couture stint at Jean Paul Gaultier sent fashion’s collective jaw to the floor. But could he translate that magic into the unapologetic, high-gloss world of Tom Ford? Judging by the black-and-white opening looks, the answer is yes. Leather, sharp tailoring, and liquid silks brought that Ford’s signature nightlife energy, but with a touch of Ackermann’s poetic restraint. Then came the colour—a shock of acid yellow, Bowie-blue suiting, and delicate lilacs, each more tempting than the last.
Sensuality, not sexiness, is the new language here. The plunge-front jumpsuits and strapless camellia dresses were still smoking hot, but they did so in a way that felt fresh, effortless, never forced. Even the mesh dresses and tuxedo jackets had a certain easy, undone glamour to them.
Perhaps the most intriguing thing about this collection was its refusal to look back. Instead of reworking Ford’s greatest hits from Gucci or YSL, Ackermann focused on mood, movement, and modernity. He distilled Ford’s essence, his ability to make us yearn, and rewrote it in his own hand. Did Tom Ford like it? Considering the hug Ford and Ackermann shared right after the show, we believe that might be the case. As the show ended and the audience flowed out into Place Vendôme, one thing was clear: this was a beginning. A first dance. And if this is how it starts, we can’t wait to see where it goes.
BALMAIN
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
all images BALMAIN via vogue.com
A new wind blew in the House of Balmain, and Olivier Rousteing was the meticulous captain whom you wouldn’t hesitate to trust with your life. After getting us used to the empowered, sexy Balmain woman, Olivier changed course and embarked on a new journey with a whole new destination in mind. Forget about the bling and the bejewelled jackets, this season we saw gray, cashmere and comfortable fits. An adventure just started for Balmain and we could not be more excited to witness Olivier’s genius at work, showcasing another side of his talent and opening a new chapter for the brand.
First well needed stop: a stunning pair of thigh-high slouchy boots made of glossy red or black leather that amazed us, and that we immediately added to our wishlist for next fall. Leaning into an “easy to wear” vibe, an adorable grey hooded jumpsuit paired with a dreamy fuzzy yellow coat had an inexplicably chic feel to it, just like when you swap your ski equipment for a relaxed dinner down the slopes. The loose silhouettes carried shades of red, dark olive, cold teal and zebra stripes (this is still a Balmain runway), while draped coats, skirts layered over pants and large front pockets (either sported on trousers, tops or crocodile leathered trenches) illustrated Olivier’s versatility and opened the door for a new era of Balmain.
DELVAUX
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images DELVAUX provided by the brand
Delvaux’s installation at Hôtel d’Evreux, inspired by Saul Steinberg’s The Americans murals, blended history, art, and fashion, offering an interactive and immersive experience inviting visitors to become part of the performance. The latest evolution, Le Brillant Tempo, offers a more supple and refined version of the original. This versatile bag embraces modernity while maintaining the timeless elegance Delvaux is known for.
Le Brillant bag, a symbol of Maison Delvaux, was inspired by the Pavilion Philips at the Brussels World Expo, designed by Le Corbusier. Reflecting the same visionary spirit, Le Brillant has become an emblem of Delvaux, merging tradition with innovation. As the inventor of the modern handbag, Delvaux first patented the luxury leather handbag in 1908 with Le Princesse. This legacy of craftsmanship continues through Le Brillant, crafted from the finest leather and adorned with its iconic metal buckle, symbolising Delvaux’s expertise in design and savoir-faire.