words EMMANUELLE PLANTIER and NIA TOPALOVA
editors MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

IM MEN

all images IM MEN via fashionnetwork.com

Designer trio of Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi have demonstrated their dedication to continue the innovation and brilliance of Issey Miyake’s lifetime work and design philosophy. The new line – IM MEN – was presented during Paris Fashion Week, exploring the connection between the human body and the cloth. The more one explores the concept of it, the more profound it becomes. At glance appearing unassuming and minimalistic, but within holding immeasurable depth. When worn, it becomes a sculpture, fusing traditional craftsmanship techniques and modern technology.

The show was held in an ultra luminous white space, with two square black panels held by robotic arms – an installation by Tokujin Yoshioka. The panels were inspired by the concept of the piece of cloth, moving slowly as if imbued with life, creating a futuristic sculpture. As the show progressed, the tones of the pieces got darker, but the delicacy of the construction and materials remained as fragile as ever. Staying true to the roots of the house while also moving into the future, Kawahara, Itakura and Kobayashi didn’t merely create a runway, they created a spectacle, engineering clothes and turning them into art pieces. Towards the end of the show the models slowly unbuttoned their last layer of clothing, creating a beautiful canvas around them, and ran/flew away in a graceful choreographed escape. The cloth evolved and took on new life in motion.

RICK OWENS

all images RICK OWENS provided by the brand

The Rick Owens show has finally arrived! Taking over the Palais de Tokyo once again for his FW25 ‘Concordians’ collection, the show opened to the tone of David Bowie’s Héros (French version) echoing through the space. The opening look, worn by none other than Rick’s muse Tyrone Susman, delivered full Owens drama: a cropped fur top with exaggerated shoulders, low-rise slim trousers, and thigh-high curved platform boots that seemed to defy physics.

The first few looks played with Rick’s signature proportion game—big tops and tiny bottoms—before moving onto asymmetrical dresses with deep plunges and fringed hemlines. Familiar platform boots made a rare exit, replaced by chunky white sneakers with a sleek, Air Max-like silhouette (2010’s are really coming back, and there’s no stopping it). Sneakers out and boots are back in. This time fringe boots, both chaotic and spectacular, added motion and texture. Though kind of reminiscent of the iconic inflatable boots from previous seasons, they also felt completely new and fresh. As the show progressed, black monochrome softened into earthy tones, undyed whites, and surprising pops of red—wrapped around models’ torsos as string tops or as boxy bags. Silhouettes focused on exaggerated shoulders and flared trousers, creating an unconventional hourglass shape defined by structure rather than curves. Modular coats with zippers hinted at a utilitarian future, while leather-fringe combos and bronze-treated denim brought artisanal detail into industrial aesthetics.

Rick’s obsession with craft was palpable, from chain-linked leather skirts to futuristic 3D-printed textures. The collection balanced technical precision with a sense of whimsical imagination, as if Owens were dressing us for a beautifully dystopian tomorrow. This season, Owens reminded us why his world feels so singular: fearless, tactile, and always pushing the boundaries of form and function.

SEAN SUEN

all images SEAN SUEN via fashionnetwork.com

Honouring the East’s fabulous sartorial legacy, Sean Suen took a millennial road traversing China and Tibet as the cornerstone of his Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Our senses were transported to a dimension where past and present meet, collide and intertwine to the incessant sound of tinker bells. If history was what inspired this collection, a hopeful look towards tomorrow is what brought it to life.

For this season, Sean Suen elevated fabric mixing to a piece of art by affixing fur details to shiny leather jackets or turning hair braids into keychains. Fringes were omnipresent, whether added as colourful details on pants, worn as a cape or a belt, they added a touch of beatnik flair to the looks and turned the Sean Suen man into a modern vagabond. The colour palette was an ode to the breathtaking landscapes by the road, where browns, yellows and dark reds brighten up the travelers’ journey. Outstandingly loose silhouettes and embellished cowboy hats inspired us to revive our children’s games where adventure and mystery led our way.

BLUEMARBLE

all images BLUEMARBLE provided by the brand

Bluemarble Paris’s Menswear Fall/Winter Collection was a celebration of diversity and interconnectedness. Alvarez’s approach to fashion was focused on storytelling through clothing. His passion for cultural diversity and fascination with different blends of contrasts and harmonies around him came from his travelling and exposure to a variety of cultures. Bluemarble Paris always focuses on sustainability and eco-conscious manufacturing, aiming to incorporate ethical production practices and material sourcing, minimising environmental impact.

This season’s collection was defined by experimental silhouettes and urban influences, incorporating elements of tech and workwear, featuring vibrant colours, oversized cuts and loose fits with a refined touch to streetwear.

FENG CHEN WANG

all images FENG CHEN WANG provided by the brand

Returning to her Chinese roots with an ever-evolving mindset, Feng Chen Wang presented a collection inspired by Shan Hai Jing, a mystical art form depicting fantastical creatures and ethereal landscapes. The symbol of the dragon appeared at the center of the creative process, and the creative director reimagined the icon in multiple shapes and textures, invoking her cultural heritage throughout the season.

While military jackets and layered suits infused a sharp feel to the runway, delicate blue knitwear and bows turned as neck pieces softly complemented the looks and created a balance between strength and finesse. Models were seen carrying incense boxes fuming like a dragon’s breath to pair with their 3D printed shoes crafted in partnership with UGG. Reptilian details conjuring the beauty of the creature were everywhere, from the necklaces to the handbags, and even printed on the garments.

032C

all images 032C provided by the brand

“Typically what cannot be seen, is what we most like to see. And what cannot be comprehended, is what we are most interested in investigating.”

032c’s mission has always been to provoke and activate the imagination, creating a space for constantly expanding creativity and freedom. Creative director Maria Koch broke down forms and silhouettes by disrupting traditional clothing and classic tailoring. Timeless garments received an unexpected twist through occult references – Bambi mohair, mille-fleur patterns, and daisies were melting on bomber jackets, while knitwear were confronted with collapsing crosses. 032c’s Fall/Winter 25 aimed to disrupt the mind moving past solidified beliefs. This collection is a statement on culture, technology, and youth movements, combining functional with futuristic.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

all images YOHJI YAMAMOTO provided by the brand

Yohji Yamamoto never leaves us with a singular solution or a finality; instead he offers space for multiple interpretations and definitions. His work is a continuous, evolving expression free from constraints of conventional form. This season he once again embodied this philosophy. He allowed us to sit and spend the much needed time with his art pieces, to fully immerse ourselves in his work, engaging with it not as a fleeting moment but as a continuous sensation.

This season that sensation was one of warmth and love. Models of all ages blurred the lines between individual identities, exchanged coats and held hands. As a master of the colour black, Yamamoto understands how fabrics take on different characteristics of the colour and uses this to create symbolic depth for each piece. Silver chains were matching with the metallic bottles of water from which the models were drinking. Models walked calmly and quietly dressed in puffer and velvet coats, tailored suits and puffed up jackets with statements like “Despair is the conclusion of the fool”, and “Sadness and suffering are the flowers of life”.

AMIRI

all images AMIRI provided by the brand

This season Mike Amiri created his fantasy Hollywood lounge bar – Club AMIRI – adding a contemporary touch to the 1960s and early 1970s Los Angeles atmosphere: polished, refined, but also sparkly and playful. The colour palette was centered around orange and brown tones with accents of green, yellow and beige. Velvet suits and green leather coats were combined with weekender bags adding a modern and practical touch. Multicoloured blouses and sparkling rhinestones with golden details, glitter cardigans and shimmering fabrics recreated the dreamy Hollywood glam. The show felt like a nostalgic time capsule bringing us back to the golden years of timeless elegance and sophistication.

PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 3