PLAYFUL SHAPES WITH THE DURAN LANTINK SS25 COLLECTION

Just a few weeks after winning the prestigious LVMH Karl Lagerfeld prize, Amsterdam and Paris-based designer Duran Lantink returned to Paris to showcase his latest collection of his eponymous label during fashion week in the heart of Le Marais. It’s a playful collection and the signature three-dimensional shapes flaunt all over the runway. 

The Spring/Summer collection draws heavily on sculptural forms, though mostly limited to specific parts of the body. Hips and joints are highlighted in a series of leggings and bodysuits, and padded bras surge from the bustlines. The frisky silhouettes drive up the comical aspects of the collection and colours remain ever lightweight. Despite these extreme shapes, Lantink balances it well with wearability. Trousers and skirts are anchored by sewn-in briefs and the brand’s debut handbag is styled in three different ways; on the shoulder, carried as a clutch, and worn as a headpiece.

Beach-like prints can be found on the garments as well. Inspired by Ibiza, and in particular the 1980’s, a time where the early rave scene swept through, hints of its dance culture can be observed as well. Gauzy and floor-length tunic dresses are layered with biker shorts, and statement jewellery from Carla Sozzani’s own personal archive is adorned all over.

Marking the halfway point, audiences were distraught by a look that seemingly reflected their own looks; a mini dress featuring an embedded screen live-streamed the runway while it was still happening. That same illusionist aesthetic was carried through to the show’s final look, with Naomi Campbell closing wearing a beautiful black gown along with an embellished neckline.

Duran Lantink SS25 collection was a class display of surrealist shapes and sizes, but perhaps more important, it was fun, playful, and it pushes the needle forward.