TIM CHRISTIANI PRESENTS FIRST CAPSULE COLLECTION ‘IN AND OUT OF GRACE’

words by EMMA LEE SMIT
edited by SONNY NGO

Dutch designer Tim Christiani unveils his first capsule collection, ‘In And Out Of Grace,’ in Amsterdam. The genderless wardrobe subverts stereotypes by not adhering to traditional notions of masculinity and femininity and spotlights something often discarded: our hair. 

The start of this collection is inspired by French surrealist artist Claude Cahun. In “I am in training, don’t kiss me” (1927) Cahun presents herself in a boxing outfit, traditionally perceived as masculine, while incorporating elements that are commonly seen as feminine, like painted-on curls and a face of make-up. The juxtaposition of these elements creates a nuanced and contradictory figure, embodying both strength and softness, masculinity and femininity.

Here, Christiani proposes something in similar vein. Directly recalling Cahun with a slogan shirt, and visors to block the model’s vision, an ambiguous person is sketched out; one that is neither masculine nor feminine, someone that is in and out of grace.

Besides gender and freedom, a central theme to the collection is hair. Often discarded after cut, human hair is an extension of ourselves, emerging from the most intimate parts of our bodies. Lovers leave strands of hair behind in bed, we touch our hair absentmindedly when we daydream, and play with it when we’re bored. Hair carries our DNA, our history, and traces with us — at least before getting cut. Incorporated in both blazers and hem skirts alike, Christiani sees hair as an extension too, this time of the garments. 

The use of deadstock materials is central to his artisanal practice. The constraints of working with what’s available inspire creativity and shape the outcomes, breathing new life into materials that might otherwise be discarded, just like with hair.

models MELLE HOMMINGA, TANJA HEINTJES, BRITT V & LIZI O
styling PILAR MADIMIN
creative direction FERDI SIBBEL & LOTTE KNIPPERS
photography SAM MORSINK