EXAGGERATED TWISTS AND TURNS AT THE ACNE STUDIOS SS25 RUNWAY
The domestic space is often kept within a family and with it, all its beauty and messiness is kept behind closed doors too. But what if you open up the house, give it some colour, exaggerate its features, and invite outsiders in? This idea started the Acne Studio’s SS25 theme of twisted domestic scenery under creative director Jonny Johansson. Everything familiar was distorted, from silhouette to texture, to furniture and living room — creating a sickening runway in turn.
The backdrop of the show was crafted by Philadelphia-based visual artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase, whose work turned everyday household items into dynamic art objects. Lamps became pillows, vases transformed into cat sculptures, and pillows metamorphosised into soft DJ gear.
“I want to put a lens on interior moments – these domesticated, soft, tender moments. I was thinking a lot about comfortability and vulnerability; existing unapologetically in your own space. The outside world is chaotic and hard, and I think people can consider trying to be softer,” said the artist. And it worked perfectly in tandem with the subverted looks that graced the runway.
Nothing is as it seems in this house, as garments were either inflated or size or super-shrunken. Layering happened in unconventional ways too, creating hybrid silhouettes — almost as if rummaging through an old pile of clothes and mixing it with your mother’s vintage wear. Neat and tidy were the polar opposite of this collection, as tailoring was warped, creased, and leather was raw-cut and minimal. Everything had an undone and spontaneous feel, something that is soft and vulnerable, and that you only really wear in the four safe walls of your own room.
Polka dots and plaid wear were also ever present at the collection, featured in mostly muted greens and chocolate browns. Accessories on the other hand were bold and sculptural. High-shine bracelets, rings and necklaces have an irregular, hammered finish. Chains are heavy and oversized, and Swarovski crystals appear across bracelets and rings. The new camera handbag was also introduced during the runway, its shape inspired by vintage camera bags. Aside, the multi-pocket tool bag returned in mock-crock leather and a softer clutch appears in similar texture adorned with crystal iterations.
Ultimately, Acne Studios managed to curtain call the domestic space for audiences and with our little glance behind the scenes of the house, we were able to see an imaginative subversion of expectations.
