LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2025 RECAP

words by SARAH KENNELLY
editor MAREK BARTEK

With Brat Summer drawing to a close in August, London Fashion Week brought a much-needed buzz back to the city, celebrating its 40th anniversary in action. Despite the difficult financial year put down by the industry, which saw a slew of brands closing down, each event celebrated the hopeful future ahead of British fashion. And in a city steeped in history and dressed in the vibrant colours of falling autumnal leaves, there was no better backdrop to debut SS25. 

DAY ONE

Day one opened with a bang, literally, with one of the industry’s hottest brands, Chopova Lowena who showcased their collection ‘Chuckaboo’ in a basement to the beat of a heavy metal soundtrack. Their typically eccentric and maximalist pieces have already made headlines with their newest accessory, a purse designed to carry a jar of mayonnaise going viral on the internet. The theme of rebellion was followed by Charli XCX, queen of Brat summer, putting on a gritty performance at a secret gig in collaboration with H&M which had everyone watching on with envy. But Harris Reed’s annual show in the Tanks of the Tate Modern showcased the best that British fashion has to offer. The star-studded audience saw celebrities like Harry Styles applaud the designer’s avant garde designs which embodied the high-art of couture. 

from left to right:
CHARLIE XCX at H&M Party by Mike Marsland via Getty Images, CHOPOVA LOWENA via chopovalowena.com, HARRIS REED via vogue.com

DAY TWO

Day two saw Irish designer, Michael Stewart, debut his first solo show for Standing Ground after winning the coveted LVMH prize, dubbed the industry’s newest rising star. Sculptural eveningwear was the focal point of this collection, a bold start for the fresh-faced designer. Richard Quinn, another Irish star, embodied old Hollywood glamour sending extravagantly embellished gowns down the runway at the Dorchester Hotel’s ballroom. And after a long-awaited two-year hiatus, Nensi Dojaka finally made her return to LFW flaunting her superbly crafted bodices on alluring evening dresses. 

from left to right:
STANDING GROUND, RICHARD QUINN and NENSI DOJAKA via tag-walk.com

DAY THREE

Day three kicked off with JW Anderson going back to basics, presenting a collection that used only four fabrics; cashmere knit, leather, silk, and sequins. The ultra-short skirts and shift-dresses paired with boots gave the show a grunge feel in typically sophisticated JW Andersen style. 16 Arlington, the internet’s cult favourite brand delved into more sensual silhouettes building on the hot trend of micro shorts and sheer dresses. But Simone Rocha’s SS25 collection was the most coveted show of the day, embodying the brand’s hyperfemininity. The designs were heavily inspired by dance, showcasing tutus and knitted wraps reminiscent of an off-duty ballerina. 

left to right:
JW ANDERSON, 16 ARLINGTON and SIMONE ROCHA via tag-walk.com

DAY FOUR

The final day of London Fashion Week embodied the radical nature of the city’s creative scene, celebrating diversity and serving political messaging. Labrum London made sure to make the most of what the city had to offer, featuring their collection in the historic Emirates Stadium, home to Arsenal Football Club. The founder honours the work of immigrants through the brand’s famous tagline ‘Designed by an Immigrant’. Soccer and fashion fanatics alike admired the earth-toned collection strutted down the runway by sports stars like Declan Rice, celebrating the melting pot of Black British culture. Paolo Carzana’s models also took to the runway barefoot sporting skilfully deconstructed, plant-dyed ensembles brought to life by the intimate setting of Carzana’s back garden in his Hackney home. To the delight of her fans who have been eagerly awaiting her newest album, FKA Twigs staged a surprise gig to close London Fashion week, stunning the crowd with innovative choreography which accompanied her newest single, ‘Eusexua’. And last but not least, London’s most iconic fashion brand, Burberry, reimagined classic styles in lighter fabrics such as silk organza, making for soft and flowy silhouettes on the runway. 

from left to right:
LABRUM LONDON, PAOLO CARZANA and BURBERRY via vogue.com

cover image:
SIMON ROCHA via vogue.com