MILAN FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2025 RECAP
editor MAREK BARTEK
words ELIANA CASA
Next stop: Milan Fashion Week! Join us as we embark on a much-needed journey to recap all the highlights of the Spring/Summer 2025 season. With an overbooked calendar, this year’s Milan Fashion Week had to be extended by one day to satisfy the desires, and demands of the trendiest fashion crowd. From Prada’s unique collection to Gucci’s sunset rendez-vous, we took a trip into the past with Fendi, Dsquared2, Roberto Cavalli, and returned just in time to discover this year’s most exciting brand collaborations.
As the Italians say, “Rome (well, in this case, Milan) wasn't built in a day”. And, so please take a seat, make yourself comfortable, and come along with us!
DAY ONE
FENDI
Kim Jones kicked off Milan Fashion Week with a powerful celebration of Fendi’s centennial, unveiling a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that transcended mere nostalgia — it was a heartfelt tribute. The designer transported us to 1925, when Adele opened Fendi’s first store in the heart of Rome. As drop-waist dresses, adorned with Art Deco patterns and pearl-trimmed botanical motifs, floated down the runway, an intimate conversation between Silvia Venturini Fendi and her mother Anna quietly silenced the crowd’s whispers, setting the tone for the afternoon.
While rumors swirl about Jones’s potential departure, one thing is undeniable: he masterfully showcased Fendi in its entirety, honoring the matriarchal roots of a brand that has forever shaped the course of fashion history.
all images FENDI via tag-walk.com
MARNI
Once upon a time in Marni…
“Beauty is a white rabbit,” said Francesco Risso backstage, “You chase it, though you fall short in capturing it.” And Marni certainly knows a thing or two about beauty.
This season brought more bourgeois references to the runway (think Audrey Hepburn-inspired hats): floral prints, bold jackets paired with leggings, and sleek fitted dresses. Yet, Marni’s signature radicalism remains ever-present in the collection. The exaggerated makeup and oversized hats serve as a perfect example of the brand’s enduring avant-garde spirit.
all images MARNI via tag-walk.com
ALBERTA FERRETTI
With the release of her SS25 collection, we assumed Alberta Ferretti was still at the heart of the fashion conversation—but it seems she’s quietly left the group chat. Just after her latest SS25 show at Milan Fashion Week, the announcement of her stepping down from her namesake brand arrived, perfectly timed to close out fashion month. Ruffles and chiffon were everywhere, bringing a boho revival to evening dresses that effortlessly transition from brunch to after-work drinks. A portrait neckline finally added Ferretti's signature feminine flair, making each piece unmistakably hers.
all images ALBERTA FERRETTI via tag-walk.com
SECOND DAY
DSQUARED2
DSQUARED2 turned up the heat in Milan. The Caten twins transformed the historic Teatro Lirico, once home to classic opera, into a sultry red room where fluid sexuality reigned and the audience was free to explore untouched territories. As the red velvet curtains dropped, models emerged draped in latex of all forms, nude tones, sheer chiffon, black leather, and bright metallic flashes. Chains of every kind adorned their bodies, teasing at nudity and playing with transparency. The SS25 collection, aptly named #D2HEAT infused the space with a raw energy, typical of the '80s underground gay scene—a world the creative directors intimately knew.
all images DSQUARED2 via tag-walk.com
JIL SANDER
If you are going to feel lonely, you might as well do it in a Jil Sander suit. Lucie and Luke Meier infused this SS25 collection with a certain darkness, stepping away from the more feminine aesthetics of previous lines. The message is undeniable: we must face the harsh reality of our times as it is.
Shiny suits and trench coats transitioned seamlessly from somber tones to knitwear in soft pastels. Fringes cascaded down the models’ ears and adorned the wrists of jackets, animating their movements with elegance. The images of Canadian photographer Greg Girard inspired the prints on shirts and pencil skirts, evoking the dynamism of cars in motion—reminding us that we must keep moving forward. A weathered jacket emblazoned with the words "Lonely Hearts" emerged - and we finally stopped moving to reconnect with a deeper meaning that resides within us.
all images JIL SANDER via tag-walk.com
BOSS
BOSS may have walked Out of the office, but we’ve just entered Marco Falcioni’s world. Set against the backdrop of Villa Eugenie, a diverse cast of models graced the catwalk, reminding us that even a historic fashion house like BOSS must keep up with the times. Featuring models of all ages, sizes, and backgrounds—including tennis star Matteo Berrettini—the collection showcased suits, trench coats, and dresses that allowed for graceful movement, embodying the brand’s signature elegance.
The color palette shifted toward warm browns and rich greens, while silhouettes softened with luxurious materials like wool and linen, creating a perfect blend of tradition and modernity.
all images BOSS via tag-walk.com
DEL CORE
Daniel Del Core brought us back to school…literally.
Oversized white organza trench coats and layered ensembles kicked off the show, giving the models an air of having just emerged from a laboratory. As the presentation unfolded, Del Core's woman—who never leaves the house with her collection of Hannah Arendt’s The Human Condition and Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation—seemed to evolve into striking looks reminiscent of mythical creatures.
The collection shifted from tailored trousers and cropped, form-fitting leather jackets worn over shorts to evening gowns crafted from pleated organza, elegantly complemented by latex gloves.
all images DEL CORE via tag-walk.com
N° 21
N°21’s invitation to step beyond the confines of established norms. Alessandro Dell'Acqua knows how to blend and contrast inspirations from diverse worlds, a point he made clear with the very first look of this SS25 collection. Only a rebellious designer like him could pair a daytime leopard-print parka with a glittering evening gown. While some fashion critics may disagree, we can only say, bravo Alessandro!
An artist like him teaches us that taking risks is the only path to progress; when you deeply understand your roots, you ultimately find your way back to authenticity. After all, the final look - a sheer black ensemble - translated this concept perfectly.
all images N°21 via tag-walk.com
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Speaking of roots… Fausto Puglisi showcased how to honor them at the Roberto Cavalli SS25 show. The presentation opened with white looks that evoked Puglisi’s hometown - Messina, Sicily. Fishing net dresses and skirts transported us back into the designer’s childhood camera, while sunset and sea prints on beach-themed sets infused the atmosphere with nostalgia.This sentiment enveloped us as supermodels Mariacarla Boscono, Alek Wek, Isabeli Fontana, Natasha Poly, Joan Smalls, Karen Elson, and Eva Herzigova graced the runway in archival pieces from the early 2000s, originally designed by the late Roberto Cavalli, who passed away just a year ago, leaving an undeniable void in all our hearts. The moment Mariacarla blew a kiss to Roberto, it became hard to contain our emotions. A designer like Fausto, who can manage to link his own experiences to those of his predecessors, then there is not much left to say - a collection simply speaks for itself.
all images ROBERTO CAVALLI via tag-walk.com
ETRO
Our journey through southern Italy continues with Marco De Vincenzo, also hailing from Sicily, who unveiled an SS25 collection that celebrated the Mediterranean coasts. The show was set against a backdrop of concrete agaves and towering cast-iron structures, elements that carry a deeper meaning. Agaves symbolize rebirth; after they wither, they make way for new growth - a parallel that is evident in fashion.
Floral prints and botanical motifs dominated the runway, showcasing sensual silhouettes that glided gracefully, inspired by the designer’s trips to Andalusia, Seville, and Greece. The atmosphere was further elevated by Sardinian musician and singer-songwriter Daniela Pes.
all images ETRO via tag-walk.com
DAY THREE
TOM FORD
After just one month at the helm of one of fashion’s most prestigious houses, Haiden Hackermann has already proven he's more than up for the challenge—and we’d better take notice. Instead of a traditional runway show, the designer presented Tom Ford’s SS25 collection exhibition-style, and it can be summed up in two words: confident and restless. The inspiration is from the '60s/'70s but the attitude feels more modern than ever. Iconic looks featured micro-mini hot pants paired with slim blazers, sequined mini dresses accessorized with statement sunglasses and body-hugging jewelry, and yet…sporty satin trousers, and drawstring shorts. Curious about what's next? Get ready for his debut collection this March—we should all be prepared.
all images TOM FORD via tag-walk.com
MAX MARA
Ian Griffiths at Max Mara brilliantly demonstrated that science holds equal weight with the arts in his SS25 collection. Drawing inspiration from the remarkable 4th-century mathematician and philosopher, Hypatia of Alexandria, the designer honored her legacy by reimagining Max Mara’s iconic tailoring. With a nod to Hypatia's analytical prowess, Ian introduced a fresh approach, creating a new fashion formula for the summer: sharp, square, and narrow silhouettes that exude confidence and sophistication.
all images MAX MARA via tag-walk.com
PRADA
If there were to be a fashion election, Miss Miuccia Prada and Mr. Raf Simons would undoubtedly be elected for presidency. The powerful duo has reminded us that in a digital world overflowing with trends, we still have the right to be whoever we wish to be. The collection featured innovative rubber skirts with cutouts, exaggerated eyewear that seemed to hail from another universe, captivating trench coats adorned with fur details, and much more. One paragraph is simply not enough. Sheer organza dresses and skirts layered over form-fitting bodysuits added a sense of ethereal elegance, while trompe l'oeil belts were cleverly positioned a few inches below the waist. Drawing on references from previous collections, the SS25 collection felt more futurist than ever. We witnessed a stunning array of 'Prada women'—strong, independent, and effortlessly chic. A visor reminiscent of a spacecraft paired with a vibrant yellow windbreaker? Absolutely.
Prada has taught us this and so much more.
all images PRADA via tag-walk.com
MOSCHINO
Adrian Appiolaza is one of those who knows how to make fun of himself, and his SS25 collection proved us so. With a keen eye for detail that would make anyone envious, Adrian has spent considerable time studying the archives of Moschino, and we can confidently say he passed with flying colors. The opening looks, featuring draped white fabrics, evoke memories of how Franco Moschino wrapped textiles around models as if they were mannequins. The creative director skillfully brought to light details from the past, incorporating graphics by Terry Jones and accessories from Judy Blame, part of the Moschino’s family. Towards the end, a model graces the runway in a dress emblazoned with the phrase “Tubino o Non Tubino?” showcasing a cut at the back, diverging from the typical slip dress design. A clever self irony that leaves us perplexed, or perhaps just craving more.
all images MOSCHINO via tag-walk.com
FEDERICO CINA
After the release of the Tortellino bag, our appetite for Federico Cina’s designs has only intensified. The SS25 collection, LA GINESTRA, serves as a poetic homage to the designer’s hometown, Sardinia, where vibrant yellow flowers bloom just before summer. Much like the elegance of these blossoms juxtaposes the harshness of the soil, this collection unfolds as a hymn—a tribute to the beauty of life that momentarily distracts us from the harsh realities of our time. Structure and fluidity harmoniously intertwine, showcasing the introduction of sporty elements, seamlessly integrated through the collaboration with UMBRO. The tension between fragility and strength becomes apparent, and resilience is all we have left to deal with.
all images FEDERICO CINA via tag-walk.com
MM6 MAISON MARGIELA
Only MM6 Maison Margiela could successfully revive torn skinny jeans on the runway and make them undeniably cool again. But that’s just the beginning of what they brought back to the forefront. Subtle references from the archive were cleverly woven into the designs, with details that only the most ardent fans would recognize—such as the glossy white paint effect, a shopping bag repurposed as a top, and the iconic shirt emblazoned with “AIDS.”
Men’s cropped jeans were artfully paired with flip-flops, while women strutted in heels, creating a striking contrast. This wasn’t merely a nostalgic throwback; it was a modern look towards the future.
all images MM6 MAISON MARGIELA via tag-walk.com
EMPORIO ARMANI
Pearls are Armani’s best friends—or at least, that’s how it feels in this latest collection. The master of elegance transformed this timeless gem into a sophisticated palette and intricate detailing throughout the designs. Power suits and slip dresses, transitioning from deep to light tones, with metallic sheers and velvet overlays, bridged the gap between past and present. The show culminated in a defining moment: Giorgio closing alongside two models in mesh pearl dresses (looks 89 and 90), paying an intentional and emotional tribute to his milestone anniversary. After all this time? Yes, Armani still reigns supreme in the art of dressmaking and crafting timeless fashion.
all images ARMANI via tag-walk.com
DAY FOUR
TOD’S
Matteo Tamburini is just so ready for a Mediterranean summer. Tod’s SS25 collection offers a laid-back journey through the sun-kissed coasts of Italy and Greece, departing from the urban formality of the previous winter line. Prints inspired by the iconic Italian photographer Luigi Ghirri made a striking appearance, alongside nods to renowned yachting photographer Carlo Borlenghi, reflected in the airy silhouettes, such as the parka featuring a flowing cape. As garments sailed down the runway, Matteo paid tribute to the brand’s artisanal heritage by showcasing 60 skilled artisans from the factory handcrafting Gommino moccasins. To further emphasize this commitment to craftsmanship, Lorenzo Quinn's breathtaking sculpture—two giant hands gracefully holding a ribbon—served as a stunning centerpiece, reinforcing the collection's dedication to the art of hand-made runway design.
all images TOD’S via tag-walk.com
SPORTMAX
Grazia Malagoli transported the fashion audience to the Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan's renowned public art museum, for the Sportmax SS25 collection. At the heart of the runway stood a striking 19th-century bronze statue of Napoleon, a reminder of the era of French occupation, juxtaposed against a series of looks that boldly advocate for freedom. Fabrics flowed elegantly over the models' bodies, revealing hints of asymmetrical transparency and creating an illusion that rendered them more like sculptures than mere fashion figures. Sportmax's new statement resonates clearly: sensual simplicity takes over anything else.
all images SPORTMAX via tag-walk.com
GUCCI
“Non voglio mica la luna”, but we definitely want more of this Gucci by Sabato De Sarno. Despite the skepticism surrounding his inaugural year at the historic brand, Sabato has convincingly stepped into the role. The audience was practically unable to remain seated as the first looks graced the runway, and everyone was singing Fiordaliso's hit song from the 80s. The designer invited us to witness a nostalgic sunset with Gucci, where vibrant tones of orange, Gucci’s Ancora red, deep burgundy, and bright yellows created a soothing and harmonious color palette.
Then, as if time stood still, the muse of excellence—iconic Jackie O—made her presence felt, reminding us that immortality exists and we are living it. The archives resurfaced, serving as the foundation from which we must begin anew. Casual elegance took center stage with oversized coats that elegantly trailed on the ground. The Bamboo bag, reinterpreted by various Japanese artists, paid tribute to an ongoing exhibition in Japan celebrating the bag’s 60-year legacy in that country. Gucci’s evolution continues to captivate, evoking emotions that mirror the descent of the sunset.
all images GUCCI via tag-walk.com
MISSONI
Filippo Grazioli embraces daring creativity and he is not scared to. As someone who doesn’t colur within the lines, the designer presented a SS25 collection for Missoni that could easily dress even the most eccentric characters of a series like White Lotus. But for this collection, the main character was definitely a reinterpretation of the zigzag pattern in bright reds, blues, and yellows. But for this collection, the main character was definitely a reinterpretation of the zigzag pattern in bright reds, blues, and yellows. Bringing his inspiration from Missoni’s archive and the work of American artist Ruth Asawa, the designer translated the motif into a 3D multitude of shapes which adorned tubular tops, minidresses, and leggings in a frenzy spiral that it’s typical of the Maison. For a Milan fashion season that seemed flat for many, Grazioli definitely lifted up our spirits with contagious joy.
all images MISSONI via tag-walk.com
VERSACE
While it may have slipped some minds, the 1997 Versus collection was like a second child for Donatella Versace. The SS25 collection drew inspiration from this iconic era, a time before the internet overwhelmed our generation with an avalanche of data. At Castello Sforzesco, floral prints took center stage, showcased in a lineup of slip dresses, cardigan combinations, denim trousers, and leather gilets that radiated youthful energy rather than mere sensuality. Versace effortlessly thrives in the realm of casual coolness, and Donatella warmly invited us to experience her enchanting vision as if we were right there with her and Gianni.
all images VERSACE via tag-walk.com
AGL
AGL epitomizes femininity, and its SS25 collection is no exception. Centered around the enchanting Water Lily, the collection showcases the delicate softness of its petals in a stunning new footwear line. Crafted from the finest leather, FLAWED GEOMETRIES evokes a sense of magic, as if it hails from a distant, mythical realm. The Water Lily motif graces mules and knee-high gladiator sandals, creating a sensorial experience that allows you to almost feel the luxurious materials. This sensation is heightened by the meticulous application of hand-sewn crystals, each placed individually to evoke hidden treasures from mythological worlds. The interplay of raffia and organza beautifully merges tradition with innovative elements. AGL presented a collection where each piece tells a unique story, reflecting a meticulous attention to detail that makes it feel like a true work of art.
all images AGL via INSTAGRAM
DAY FIVE
FERRAGAMO
Wrinkled long coats, precision-cut dresses, oversized side bags, ballet heels, and sharp tailored coats were the main ingredients for Ferragamo's SS25 collection. Maximilian Davis delivered a masterclass in design, blending voluminous silhouettes with flawless tailoring. Neutral tones played against vibrant splashes of color, while the trending ballet core aesthetic was reimagined with an elevated, sophisticated twist.
all images FERRAGAMO via tag-walk.com
DOLCE&GABBANA
Dolce&Gabbana unveiled one of the most controversial shows of the fashion month. The models walked fiercely into the runway with blonde wigs and pin-up dresses featuring cone-shaped bras, evoking iconic pop culture muses like Marilyn Monroe. However, the inspiration ran deeper. If anyone mistakenly conflated these designs with those of Jean Paul Gaultier, it’s time to take a step back. Domenico and Dolce & Gabbana paid homage to the ultimate muse, Madonna, recalling the costumes they designed for her during the 1993 Girlie Show tour in support of her Erotica album. From the audience, Madonna greeted the designers and exclaimed, "I want it all." As for the collection itself, sheer bras peeked through slip dresses, showcasing a bold sensuality that leaves little to the imagination.
all images DOLCE&GABBANA via tag-walk.com
DIESEL
It’s Diesel’s planet, and we’re just living on it. For this season’s, Glenn Martens filled the room with denim while an AI voice repeated on drone “DENIM IS DENIM”. Ripped dresses, skirts and tops made their way down a runway crafted from blue denim cut-outs, with a towering denim sculpture dominating the backdrop. With eyes painted like aliens, the SS25 collection took us on a futuristic, techno-inspired journey, where classic materials met avant-garde designs - think about the coats with trailing laces wrapped around the neck as if they were scarves.Glenn reminded us once again where Diesel comes from, with bold references throughout.
all images DIESEL via tag-walk.com
BOTTEGA VENETA
Matthieu Blazy took us all back to school with a show that once again stole the spotlight. BOTTEGA VENETA has cemented itself as the must-see event of the season. Oversized, sharply tailored suits dominated the SS25 collection, evoking that nostalgic childhood thrill of rummaging through your parents’ closet and playing dress-up. Guests sat comfortably in animal-shaped chairs, adding a playful touch as if they were watching a friend perform in a kindergarten play. The collection seamlessly blended whimsy with more sophisticated elements like jersey dresses, sleeve coats—and, of course, statement pieces like the iconic bags and shoes, which continue to elevate the brand's unmistakable identity
all images BOTTEGA VENETA via tag-walk.com
DAY SIX
ANDREĀDAMO
In this very sensitive period of time, where independent fashion brands face significant challenges in covering the costs of a fashion show, it was truly a joy to see how ANDREĀDAMO has made a triumphant comeback—with the support of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Sensuality is reconstructed with Nude 01, Nude 02, Nude 03 - the season’s signature colour palette. The focus is on prints that replicate the features of a nude body, emblazoned on form-fitting dresses and tops. Adamo’s distinct vocabulary is unmistakable in the aviator leather jackets paired with voluminous balloon skirts, which contrast the bare sheer transparency of see-through tops and fabrics that naturally follow the fluid lines of the body.
all images ANDREĀDAMO via INSTAGRAM
AVAVAV
3,2,1...SET! Run AVAVAV run.
Closing Milan Fashion Week was Beate Karlsson, who invited the fashion world to join her for a Sunday morning run. Known for her daring and teasing shows, for this SS25 collection, the designer truly elevated the brand forward. Set against the backdrop of Milan's historic Forza e Coraggio sports arena, the show unveiled as if we were assisting a fashion Olympics. A significant highlight was her collaboration with sportswear giant Adidas, marking a major milestone for an emerging designer like Beate. Models sprinted down the runway, pausing to catch their breath and even tumbling in the reinterpretation of the iconic four-finger shoes. Among the standout moments, the body painted looks that cleverly mimicked t-shirts, added an extra layer of fun to the collection.
all images AVAVAV via tag-walk.com
