PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2025 RECAP
editor MAREK BARTEK
words by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
After more than a week of head turning, tongue twisting and groundbreaking moments, Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 came to an end! Legendary fashion Houses shared the stage with small designers during the best week of the year (at least for us, fashion lovers), crafting memorable instants to look back to. Every year, more creative labels join the prestigious Official Calendar, breaking the inaccessible stereotypes of fashion and extending the possibilities of the industry.
This season was one for the history books! Between scrutinised debuts, expected returns and already cult shows, this season did not leave us dissatisfied. Look one last time in the rearview of this exceptional season with us, and relive the most iconic points of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025.
DAY ONE
VAQUERA
Vaquera is for the cool people who already know they’re cool. For this season, the brand delved deeper in its effortlessly relaxed late 90’s aesthetic. An alliance of shiny leather and fur accompanied pleats on large bubble skirts, tops and loose shirts. Styling played an important role in the success of the show. Mastered layering brought the silhouettes an edgy allure we are yearning for. All of a sudden, superposing three belts does not seem so cheesy anymore. Capris made of denim added the perfect twist to this fall’s must-have item, and the last act of the show offers a glimpse into Vaquera’s other personality. Sporting a gold chain-printed fabric used on a skirt, scarf, or hat paired with a striped polo or sportswear t-shirt, for an irresistible contrast.
all images VAQUERA via showstudio.com
WEINSANTO
Nestled on the 6th floor of the Georges Pompidou Centre at the restaurant Le Georges, WeinSanto presented an elegant and poised Spring/Summer 2025 collection. With a large metallic structure as a background, the runway showcased 31 looks that digged in the house’s eclectic identity, blending neutrals with bright colours or tailoring with sexy tops. Blazers were either sharp or cropped, striped or pearly white, while trousers came adorned with antique architecture details. Made for women that walk to the beat of their own drums, this collection played with sculpt like no other. Corsets embraced the body, off-shoulder printed dresses elevated the silhouette into a statuesque figure, 3D details used as bras or embellish tops, they all brought a futuristic vibe to the whole. Paris was an active force of the show, with accessories representing the Eiffel Tower, and other objects emblematic of the Parisian decor.
all images WEINSANTO via tag-walk.com
CFCL
Japanese label CFCL unveiled a simple yet clear-cut collection anchored in the brand’s philosophy of comfort and simplicity of maintenance. At the brand’s heart lies the desire to create a closet suitable for both everyday and special occasions, and they hit the jackpot this season. A symphony of neutrals and sharply tailored garments showcased on the runway, with deep plunging V necks leading the way. Computer programming knit is central to the designer’s Yusuke Takahashi creative process, turning knitwear into a sophisticated commodity. Flowy dresses met double layered pleated tops and matching ample pants. The first part of the collection took a particular interest in the duality of black and white, while the second one saw navy blue, psychedelic rainbow print, multi-colour knitwear and an unexpected 3D twist on polka dots. Large knitted fringes adorned the bottom of dresses, composed a tub top and turned a long skirt into a ruffling of movement.
all images CFCL via tag-walk.com
To complete this outstanding tee shot of Paris Fashion Week, RuiBUILT showed their SS25 collection ‘Lingering On’ during a private presentation, revealing a delicate line dwelling into the brand’s unique aesthetic and cut-out pieces. Everything from RuiBUILT embodied a strong feminine energy that dug into the ethereal and erotism to create special items right out of another dimension. Pressiat held a deliciously edgy runway show in the middle of the Parisian streets, where movements and volumes collided in an explosion of leather, angular shapes, light fabric and unconventionally placed zippers. Dubbed ‘Burning Era’, this collection was a beacon of its time, where people seek authenticity and singularity rather than conforming to trends. Julie Kegels conquered our hearts with a sun-drenched, heartwarming collection that felt like a perfect summer day full of metallic floral print, swimsuits and blouses for the chilly evenings. Embroidered knitwear was seen on long shorts and co-ord sets, matching beach and chic.
all images RUIBUILT, PRESSIAT, and JULIE KEGELS via instagram.com
DAY 2
MAITREPIERRE
After a remarkable presentation at the Closing and Opening Ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, all fashion eyes were locked on Alphonse Maitrepierre and his newest SS25 collection. And let’s just say that from the concept to the execution, every box was checked and immersed us in the designer’s peculiar world. Technology blended with surrealism in an out-of-the-box collection that turned everyday objects into sartorial treasures. Gameboy tank tops encountered wiring, and plugs and joysticks embellished a bathrobe. Long dresses embraced the body’s movements and a striped vortex-like t-shirt hypnotised us for the rest of the show. The overall atmosphere was relaxed, reminiscent of teenage years spent watching cartoons and playing video games. With footwear made in collaboration with emblematic shoemaker Carel, Maitrepierre is affirming its place as a strong fashion figure in the French landscape. Even more than presenting cutting-edge garments, Maitrepierre offered us a reflection on the role of screens in our lives, swallowing us just like a 1990’s TV mounted as a top.
all images MAITREPIERRE via instagram.com
MARIE-ADAM LEENAERDT
Sleek and chic, Marie-Adam Leenaerdt SS25 collection unfolded on the runway in an elegant procession, reflecting the designer’s impeccable taste level. This collection embodied the spirit of a busy modern woman that makes her own rules and loves a good fashion moment. She has a style for everyday and night. Luminous, moody, relaxed or on the clock, Marie-Adam Leenaerdt captured the incomparable allure of the women who make the world go round. Midnight black and bright white met soft pink and flashy yellow in the silhouettes oscillating between classic and creative. A gown made of sheer black satin held together by a large leather belt elevated the collection to a fashion experience. Cashmere, sweaters, large T-shirts, straight gowns resembling graduation dresses, hourglass trench coats, and mastered pleats made the Spring/Summer 2025 Fashion Week a very strong season for Marie-Adam Leenaerdt.
all images MARIE-ADAM LEENAERDT via showstudio.com
GERMANIER
Time for the master of up-cycling to enter the room! Kevin Germanier accustomed us to grandiose, sparkling silhouettes made of unconventional materials, and he exposed his eccentric universe once more for his Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Inspired by the Zodiac signs and the mystical fascination they evoke in us (do not deny it), Kevin Germanier brought magnificent colours to the Parisian sky. Dresses shimmed in the cascades of plastic stripes while spiky filaments adorned catsuits and hairstyles like shooting stars at night. Volumes were disproportionate to accentuate hips, elongate the silhouette and turn the body into a moldable artefact. Beads weaved into an asymmetrical dress added textures to the runway, while flip flops made into a dress brought a touch of humour. Bags sporting each sign’s symbol were the perfect addition to the looks, materialising the designer’s vision for this season’s vestiaire.
all images GERMANIER via showstudio.com
SAINT LAURENT
Anthony Vaccarello spent sleepless nights studying Saint Laurent’s history and you can tell! The House’s creative director dug into Saint Laurent’s archives of the early 70’s to the late 80’s to revisit the brand’s classic. Omnipresent and as stylish as ever, the suit took the centre stage in an oversized contemporary style, embodying the independent feminine. Long coats and ties completed the looks while glasses evoking Yves’ signature pair acted as a moving gesture to honour the late designer. Vaccarello’s interest in the 1980’s collection showed in the long dresses and ensembles evoking Yves Saint Laurent’s Moroccan inspirations and brought colours and undulations to the runway, contrasting with the suits in neutrals hues. In each case, the body was free and the garments’ movement enhanced its every step. The show was closed by bright-coloured jackets paired with lace tops and pencil pleated skirts, concluding this love letter to Saint Laurent’s enduring legacy.
all images SAINT LAURENT via showstudio.com
Ester Manas proposed the perfect fashion girl’s attire, with transparent mesh, splendid florals and suggestive lingerie. Titled ‘The Elephant in the Room’, the collection presented sexy, bold silhouettes that advocated for women empowerment and reclaimed sexuality all over the world. Christian Dior’s collection took an interesting turn on sportswear equipment, shooting arrows on the runway and unveiling F1 inspired pieces. Black and white combined while sheer tulle dresses and long leather gloves summoned Ancient Greece to the catwalk. Maria Grazia Chiuri definitely spotted next season’s hit shoes, with laced up flat boots awakening memories of the boxing ring. When it comes to Vaillant, textures and materials were the core of this line from feather, fur, lace, mesh to 3D and plastic. Each garment presented a twist on conventional clothing, whether in the form of a leather skirt adorned with lace details and shining crystals or a short orange dress where fur balls emerge in a soft manner.
all images ESTER MANAS and DIOR via showstudio.com
all images VAILLANT via tag-walk.com
DAY 3
COURRÈGES
For the Spring/Summer 2025 season, Nicolas di Felice presented a quintessentially Courrèges collection rooted in the House in its aesthetic codes. Minimalist and neat, it carried some nods to the previous collections. Every cut, angle, pleat and shape was intended to bring to life masterpieces of precision. The gritty front pocket appeared on short skirts and shorts, and architectural tops sculpt the body to give it a unique allure. The highlight of the collection was definitely the selection of rectangular tops, the emblematic satin leather dresses, pants, high boots and irresistible jackets. Black dominated the scene with pops of red and grey denim lighting up the collection.
all images COURRÈGES via tag-walk.com
DRIES VAN NOTEN
This season witnessed the first collection since Dries’ gut-wrenching departure from the creative direction of the label, and it is safe to say that his legacy was greatly honoured in this Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The in-house design team respected the distinctive style of the brand, presenting sublime prints blending with delightful textures and flashy colours, summoning Dries’ spirit in every garment. As usual, tailoring was beyond and was visible on oversized blazers, vests, suit dresses, hourglass-shaped shirts and knee-long skirts covered in floral print. Lace details sported on V-necks and at the bottom of dresses brought romanticism to the runway. Snake print was everywhere and studded jackets and light tops were the edgy-chic item of the line. Conscientious styling enhanced the colour palette’s vibrancy, mixing elements in a captivating manner. Belts enclosing the waist shaped the silhouettes and loosely ruffled collars on sporty jackets made two universes collide. Accessories elevated the looks, from the stylish jewellery to the matching leather goods, this collection was a promising light for the future of the brand, and reassurance that its peculiar identity will shine through any changes.
all images DRIES VAN NOTEN via showstudio.com
RABANNE
Rabanne took Paris Fashion Week by a storm with a cutting-edge collection that blended futurism and elegance in an exquisite way. With hues of blues, gold, and bursts of pink and red, this collection presented a sophisticated yet fashionable closet that showed a new side of Rabanne that we couldn’t get enough of.
Reworked dresses with cascading shoulders sported lamé details and open V-neck, sexy and classy all the way. Oversized blazers in baby blue or with floral print were paired with mini skirts while a dress mixing leather and ample fabric stole the show. You would have guessed it, metal dominated the runway in a typically Rabanne manner, with silver elements spurting into transparent mesh, allying strength and delicacy in one piece. Striped t-shirts covered with a thin layer of transparent mesh paraded intricate embroideries, elevating the looks to new skies. Lamé details were the perfect addition to babydoll dresses, and how could we skip the accessories. From the seductive footwear ranging from folded boots to see-through heels or the bags, either made of metal or enveloped with plastic.
all images RABANNE via showstudio.com
ACNE STUDIOS
All in for roundness and volume, the new Acne Studios collection turned and twisted fashion classics to propose a new take on our favourite pieces. Crocodile leather was the hit material of the show, composing bubbly jackets and matching pants with extravagant volumes. Tartan and denim constituted a full ensemble and crochet co-ord, dresses and swimsuit made the perfect beachwear attire. Huge bows on mini skirts and dresses keep the ballerina trend alive. Cardigans carelessly knotted around the shoulders brought an air of wilderness and romanticism to the runway but the real star was definitely the chequered fabric, seen on dresses, skirts, shirts, blazers, jumpsuits and tops, the autumnal air could be felt from outside the room.
all images ACNE STUDIOS via showstudio.com
Olivier Rousteing never disappoints and this season was no exception. The Internet was obsessed with the magnificent dazzling gowns in the image of Kylie Jenner, and the skinny pants-black blazer combo clearly announced the return of the 2010’s. Whatever Balmain produces it is always in dedication to artistry and excellence. The SS25 Zomer collection was an outburst of colours and flowers, overtaking the runway and leading us to an endless dance in the tulip fields. Either in print, 3D details or architectural constructions, the Dutch brand embodied the ideal of the summer in the Netherlands through experimental silhouettes and unexpected textures. Rochas enchanted us with a sentimental collection allying soft embroideries and a diverse colour palette and an undeniable coastal vibe.
all images BALMAIN, ZOMER, AND ROCHAS, via showstudio.com
DAY 4
MUGLER
Casey Cadwallader decided to shine a new light on the House of Mugler, drifting away from the monochrome silhouettes of its previous collections and inviting new concepts and more colour to the runway for this season. Tops unveil like flowers, with each fold creating a glamorous wave shaping the body. Every pleat and fold evoked a dancing leaf blown by the wind, while raw-edged tulle and superb corsetry enhanced sensuality. Tailoring was sharp with magnificent curves enhancing the hips, a bedazzled blazer and skirt ensemble perfectly combined evening and office wear. Utility pieces such as an oversized khaki jacket and matching shorts made its way to the collection, and dark denim met reimagined floral and nature inspired fabric. Creativity soaked through into the unique hairstyles worn by the models, a sophisticated bob cut with extra-long fang bangs covering the eyes in an ultra-modern fashion.
all images MUGLER via showstudio.com
HELIOT EMIL
Ready to let your darkest fantasies come true? Heliot Emil presented a raw, industrial collection that digs into nature’s ruthless elements. The duochrome line was a beacon of intense creation, presenting complex items that layer, intertwine and meet each other for a quintessentially edgy result. Tops were cut-out and reworked, sleek vests layered over fishnets and metallic detailing enhanced the silhouettes. Fits are either loose or properly fitted, showcasing the eclecticism of the brand. Grandiose puffer jackets made us want to take a trip to Iceland, and some technical items created the perfect underground wardrobe to impress your fashion friends. The constructions were architectural, proving that minimalism requires outstanding technique. Imposing leather boots enhanced the brand’s powerful aesthetic, while the emblematic Heliot Emil’s carabiner adorned bags and shirts, further affirming their unique identity.
all images HELIOT EMIL via showstudio.com
RICK OWENS
Unconventional and unique are certainly adjectives that suit Rick Ownens’ style, who since last season turned his fashion shows into a full-on experience. Titled ‘Hollywood’, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection took place in the scenic Palais de Tokyo, known for its brutalist architecture. Models walked in groups, eerily presenting similar outfits, and showcasing the importance of community and gathering. The silhouettes were ethereal and mysterious, bringing creatures from the outer-world to Paris. Rick Owens’ black met distressed taupe and metallic fabric announcing the new dawn of designer. Pleats created ampleness in tops and gloves, while leather mermaid skirts enclosed the body and emphasised its every curve. Everything was experimental, new and proved that Rick profusely turned to innovative concepts and techniques to bring a new era in fashion.
all images RICK OWENS via showstudio.com
SCHIAPARELLI
Daniel Roseberry knows how to do fashion and it shows! The Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025 collection was nothing short of delightfully chic, scattering the House’s iconic codes all show long and playing with symbols. If it had to be summarised in two words, it would be ‘polished’ and ‘refined’. Corsets took the centre stage, and turned into elegant white polo and shirts essentially elegant. The venerated braided tie made a remarkable appearance, paired with a cropped suit jacket with large sleeves and matching shorts sporting golden details. Schiaparelli’s love for surrealism shined through the eye-catching golden jewellery. Tons of sea blue, vivid red and washed beige lightened up the runway alongside the pristine white that took the presentation to another level. We felt immersed in a fantastical marine world, and the embroidered top and short dresses were made to resemble coral and accentuate this impression.
all images SCHIAPARELLI via showstudio.com
Chloé amazed us with a very bohemian chic collection filled with pearl white lace and mesmerising volumes on dresses. This collection embodied a soft, delicate passion that blossoms to the rhythm of the seasons, with soft red leather composing adorable cropped jackets. Deeply anchored in Los Angeles underground countercultures, Casablanca’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection showcased cartoonish prints on t-shirts and ties, large fur coats and bucket hats. The urban inspirations sweated out through reworked basketball jerseys while kitschy dolphin printed t-shirts reminded us of the sweet times of the 2000’s. Uma Wang pronated a return to the essential in her newest collection, creating garments that challenge the norms while carrying an inherent elegance. Gowns were elevated to the rank of art, with endless folds and pleats evoking delicate seashells.
all images CHLOÉ and CASABLANCA via showstudio.com
all images UMA WANG via tag-walk.com
DAY 5
LOEWE
Let’s confess our secret, we have a crush on Loewe. Every season, Jonathan Anderson turns the fashion world upside down with innovative concepts and techniques that leave us speechless. This collection was not an exception, and the aerial feel of the creations was out of this world. Long floral dresses floating around the body were held together by a thin metallic structure, transforming the models into ethereal summertime visions. Printed t-shirts with Vincent Van Gogh paintings were printed on feathers, adding texture and a unique visual to the garment. Soft leather baggy pants and sequin short dresses paired with sneakers presented an almost adolescent affect. Paired with a short black leather cape, they made up our favourite look of the season (no jokes) and will stay in our mood boards until next season. Skirts and long coats seemed to be perpetually gripped by the blowing wind, while the colour palette oscillated between shades of brown and beige to soft pink, sunshine yellow and tame grey.
all images LOEWE via showstudio.com
ISSEY MIYAKE
All in finesse and grace, Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2025 collection proved once more that the Japanese brand sets the bar high when it comes to craftsmanship and creativity. Through light humour it highlighted the importance of wearing your clothes instead of them wearing you, with a set of looks showcasing items layed on top of the models’ bodies. The interplay of transparency and layering brought an ethereal atmosphere to the runway, also thanks to the nebulous colour palette. Nature seemed central to this collection, first by its lightness, but also by the use of flowers as prints and eyewear, where streams of leaf and fern composed the daintiest glasses of this Fashion Week. A long dress made of pale green and embellished with infinite pleated details illustrated the collection’s ode to Mother Earth and its manifestations.
all images ISSEY MIYAKE via showstudio.com
VÊTEMENTS
Opened by Travis Scott, closed by Anok Yai and full of 5-star casting, Vêtements Spring/Summer 2025 collection was one to remember. The diverse influences blended, met and converged to bring to life a superb line embodying the vast cultural landscape of our times. Streetwear walked hand in hand with tailoring, and touches of underground goth were revealed through soft nappa leather pants and jackets as well as printed t-shirts. Reimagined shoulders sported on zip-up hoodies highlighted the desire to experiment and push further the boundaries of conventional clothing. Dresses were the length of a belt, bringing empowered and sexy femininity to the runway. Floor-length white lace skirts infused the collection with a romantic air, while celebrating baby bumps. And, of course, the sublime closing, with Anok Yai as a runaway bride illuminating the runway in a superb reworked wedding dress. To find out this moment was pure improvisation, it makes you appreciate the magic of fashion on another level
all images VÊTEMENTS via showstudio.com
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
The master of Japanese fashion once again gave us a style lesson in 42 looks, anchored in the brand's inimitable aesthetic, yet incessantly enlarging its range of action. This collection made us think of a patchwork thanks to its assembled quality. The deconstruction, decortication, reorganisation of the garments was truly out of this world, bringing to the world labyrinthine creations. The panel of textures ranged from crocheted fishnet, technical fabric, to delicate lace. Black was leading the show, accompanied by kaki green, purple and washed white apparition, while red acted like Ariadne’s thread, opening and closing the show in the utmost poetic way. Even bows made their way into the collection. Details burst out of the garments in a symphony of black fabric, while layering plays a decisive role in the presentation. Yamamoto’ silhouettes are otherworldly, and each look is an invitation to consider the purpose and goal of fashion, its endless possibilities of creation.
all images YOHJI YAMAMOTO via showstudio.com
Victoria Beckham presented a Spring/Summer 2025 collection chic with a twist, channelling relaxed elegance on the runway. With interesting cut-outs, meticulously crafted tops and dresses that grip the body as if you put them on right after a swim in the sea, Mrs Beckham showed us the extent of her artistry and we couldn’t be more pleased. Nina Ricci brought Old Hollywood back in style through a glamorous collection worthy of the silver screen. Dramatic hats and sensually draped head scarves made the perfect accessories, while feminised tuxedos are like an homage to Marlene Dietrich’s unparalleled charisma. Giambattista Valli presented a trimmed collection with Lolita-esque accents, where the 1950’s references fuse in every direction. Embodying a quiet, demure yet voluptuous femininity, the creative director leaned on intricate flower embroideries and a soft colour palette to represent sweet nostalgia in sartorial means.
all images VICTORIA BECKHAM and NINA RICCI via showstudio.com
all images GIAMBATTISTA VALLI via tag-walk.com
DAY 6
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Almost two years after the passing of the Queen of Punk, Andreas Kronthaler is still keeping her legacy vibrant every season. This collection drifted from the usual Westwoodian closet, more minimalistic and tidy. Voluminous pleated skirt paired with a blouse or a corseted top evoked a rural afternoon, and white suits with reworked fedora were the Italian mafia uniform of the day. Dresses made of transparent mesh presented a delicate asymmetricality, and unveiled the breast in a cheeky way. Prints were definitely the hit of this collection, from different types of florals to stripes and obviously tartan, their multiplicity highlighted Andreas Kronthaler’s eclecticism. The most impressive piece of the collection was an off-shoulder black gown, whose infinite pleats and ruffles created endless movement.
all images VIVIENNE WESTWOOD via tag-walk.com
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
Graceful, mysterious and shadowy, those are words to describe Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Stefano Gallici captured the essence of the brand and reimagined it with a touch of elven mysticism. Every detail was so unique that we don’t even know where to start. Oversized blazers and trench coats got paired with lace neckties, reminiscent of 19th century fashion. The construction of the garments was otherworldly, with reassembled lace tops, perfect tailoring and see-through dresses transporting us to another dimension inhabited by nymphs and creatures. We are already dreaming of the magnificent buckled leather boots of the collection, perfectly paired with a feathered jumper and mini-shorts. It felt like Oscar Wilde descended and took possession of the runway, because the drama and edge of the collection were straight out of a novel.
all images ANN DEMEULEMEESTER via showstudio.com
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Alexander McQueen’ Spring/ Summer 2025 collection allied sophisticated class with McQueen’s unique flair, and we are here for it. The first part of the collection proposed a sleek silhouette of structured tailoring with a twist, be it in an asymmetrical skirt-pant or lace details on a blazer. Dresses flowed and extravagant collars adorned the jacket. Slowly, the serious (as serious as McQueen can get) outfits turn into proper evening wear, with feathers and sparkle joining the dance, and a colour palette that brightens with every look. Leather makes a notable appearance on skirts and circus jackets in a vintage manner. Grandiose coats, perfect to wrap yourself in after a sleepless night are incommensurably glamourous, and a golden jacket made of thousands of beads will guarantee you to shine in every situation. The masterpiece of the collection was definitely a gown where crystal stripes cascaded alongside the body like water drops, partly covering the face for an absolutely unforgettable result. Whether you’re at the office, or dancing the night away, Alexander McQueen got you covered in any situation.
all images ALEXANDER MCQUEEN via showstudio.com
JUNYA WATANABE
What would an illegal transgender alien wear to attend Paris Fashion Week? Probably Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2025 collection. We wonder if the designer took a trip in outer-space, considering the avant-gardism and utmost craftsmanship of the collection. Chrome and black appeared on seemingly impossible square dresses, mixing textures and fabrics, while tops made of repurposed camping attire created a strange yet fascinating matching set with a silver skirt. The motoracing inspiration was visible through a collaboration with Japanese brand Degner, and the use of protection gear to create skirts and dresses. Each garment was more intricate than the other using technical wear and unconventional material and the creations were elevated to the rank of extraterrestrial production. Latex mimicking lace was the only anchor to the real world we could find, and maybe a skull-printed t-shirt that assured us that we were still on the planet Earth.
all images JUNYA WATANABE via showstudio.com
Noir Kei Ninomiya presented sculptural creations made of unconventional material, blending natural inspirations with a futuristic Geist. LED dresses and majestic headpieces transported us to a mystical universe where conventions don’t exist. Elie Saab SS25 collection was all about sublime evening gowns, either sparkling, flowing or embracing the body. Crochet skirts and crop tops, ideal for a sunny afternoon on the coast, met loose blouses of faded bronze, for a casual relaxed afternoon. Digging into Asian traditional clothing, Rei Kawakubo explored the limits of creation by materialising grandiose volumes. Maximalist kimono and upside-down dresses showcased surreal shapes and exquisite Eastern fabrics. Sand, beige, browns, camel, bronze and touches of fuchsia pink and orange, Hermes’ newest collection explores with warm tones to embody a sophisticated lifestyle. Straight dresses reminiscent of the 1960’s hippie era dominated the runway, while adorable jumpsuits manifested casual chic.
all images NOIR KEI NINOMIYA, ELIE SAAB, and REI KAWAKUBO via showstudio.com
DAY 7
DURAN LANTINK
LVMH Prize finalist Duran Lantink unveiled his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, further developing his peculiar aesthetic recognisable from miles away. Bubbly volumes accentuated hips, shoulders and elbows, humorously playing on size and showcasing the designer’ signature move. Fashion is not a serious game, and Lantink deeply understood this mantra, putting handbags on model’s heads in a surrealist fashion, and crafting XXL bras that didn’t hide their purposeful exaggeration. Everything was thought through and precise, alternating ample silhouettes with fitted garments, crop tops and architectural vests. Very low-waisted skirts reveal the colour of the underwear while a striped red catsuit proved that circuscore is going to be THE trendiest aesthetic of 2025. A wooden beaded dress evoking cab drivers’ seats was the cherry on top of this deliciously ironic cake, while heavy silver necklaces and body harness channelled a tribal spirit. This collection was surely a beacon of innovation and cutting-edge creative thinking, making us more than excited to see how far can Duran Lantink go with his unique spirit.
all images DURAN LANTINK via showstudio.com
VALENTINO
Alessandro Michele took Valentino by a storm, making a remarkable debut that everyone in the industry and beyond was waiting for. He reinvented 1970’s fashion in a quintessentially Valentino way, with ruffled dresses showcased in floral print or decorated with shiny threads. Oriental embroideries embellished sharp lace dresses and precise tailoring brought to life unconventional blazers. Fur was put under the spotlight, sharing the stage with polka dots, all very Michele. Ravishing face jewellery added a mystical feel to the looks, perfectly complementing and creating a whole universe for this collection. Such detailed and deep collection holds a lot of intricacies, so much that we dedicated an entire article to it.
all images VALENTINO via showstudio.com
ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS
Enfants Riches Déprimés is for the vagabonds, the outcasts that live at night and create their own norms. From references to the movies ‘The Secretary’, ‘Edward Scissorhands’ and ‘Alice in Wonderland’, to a nod to 19th century French military jackets, this collection put leather and metallic details at the centre stage, creating a raw and offset universe dear to the brand’s values. Elegance was key, even when crafting a dark and edgy vibe, which is why impeccable blazers, trench coats and loose knee-length skirts composing the looks teased the duality of sophistication and experimentation. Eroticism played an important role in the presentation. Transparent fabrics sensually revealed the body and open shirts left little space to imagination. A promising show for the young label that keeps on developing their specific identity and left us yearning for more.
all images ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS via instagram.com
ISABEL MARANT
Isabel Marant came back this season with her eponymous label, ready to show to the Parisian streets the extent of her talent. Her glamorous Western aesthetic is all about fringes, crafting a bohemian chic vibe that can sometimes miss the mark, but when Isabel takes the lead we love every second of it. Indigenous inspired fabrics were used to construct short dresses and skirts. Brown suede jackets and shorts brought us back to the gold diggers epoch, paired with authentic moccasins shoes, proving that Isabel is the queen of cowboy style. An adorable shirt dress laced at the sides contrasted the rest of the collection and brought a touch of casual refinement. We were transported back to the earlier days of Coachella, when Vanessa Hudgens dominated Instagram with her boho chic looks. The colour palette ranged from sand to warm oranges, deep brown and soft pink while midnight black made a notable appearance on vinyl jackets and thin jersey dresses. Spartan sandals made a comeback this season, exquisitely completing the looks. The Isabel Marant woman is one of adventure, one that connects with nature in order to transform herself and reach higher grounds.
all images ISABEL MARANT via showstudio.com
For their SS25 collection Ottolinger introduced a collection blending sporty influences with reworked asymmetrical garments that delved into sartorial possibilities. Puffer tops twisted around the models bodies while intelligent cut-outs turned dresses into Amazons uniforms. After making a ramble announcing their collaboration with Kylie Jenner’s fashion brand KHY, Atlein showcased their sleek style on the Parisian catwalk, all in finesse and grace. The garments embraced the body and, thanks to pinpointed pleats, magnified its every move. The lightness of cotton had a brief encounter with a knotted leather jacket and gloves, while crystals acted as polka dots on a cut-out dress and long skirt. While Niccolo Pasqualetti offered us an elegant line merging aerial constructions with slacken fits. From sequin dresses and denim ensembles to linen tops, the collection showcased a wide array of textures, fabrics and colour for a diversity of styles.
all images OTTOLINGER and NICCOLO PASQUALETTI via showstudio.com
all images ATLEIN via tag-walk.com
DAY 8
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Oscillating between reinvented office wear and party-appropriate attire, Stella McCartney SS25 collection put forward a modern woman with a fast-paced lifestyle. Someone who’s not afraid to make bold fashion moves and live up to it. From a sparkly denim set to an oversize trench coat paired with a grey blazer and skirt, Stella McCartney knows that femininity has multiple facets and every one of them has to be celebrated. The colour palette was made of soft blues, creamy whites and popping reds. The talk-of-the-town piece was a cloudy dress evoking a cotton candy sphere, delicious from the beginning to the end. Birds were a recurring symbol on the runway, visible on necklaces, 3D bras and the front of a transparent mesh top. Distressed dresses and black shiny leather were the edgy touch that elevated the collection to new skies, showing that a bit of darkness never hurt anyone.
all images STELLA MCCARTNEY via showstudio.com
ZIMMERMANN
Halfway between the crystal sea and the elegant streets of St Tropez, the Zimmermann Spring/Summer 2025 collection embodied maritime grace. Blending tropical prints with pristine white crocheted pieces, and bringing a vision of endless summer nights. Relaxed figures with open shirts and cool denim pants switched between long dresses paired with majestic hats, and beaded belts with matching bags. Windbreakers ensured that you were ready in case of chilly weather. The highlight of the collection was a reimagined summer dress embellished with ruffles, creating a charming motion that follows your every step. Tones evoking natural elements accompanied with blue as clear as the sea. Bags made of suede, leather and straw added the final touch to the looks, aligned with the collection’s leisured aesthetic.
all images ZIMMERMANN via showstudio.com
BALENCIAGA
Demna never fails to surprise us, and that is why we are so obsessed with every new Balenciaga collection. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection showed another side of Balenciaga, one that digs into the brand’s elegant and sensual dimension. Lingerie trompe-l’oeil are actually catsuits, a bold move for the creative director that got us used to oversized silhouettes. A grandiose fur coat brought the extravagance to the collection while old fashioned dresses sported a bow as a tie, playing with conventions. But it wouldn’t be Balenciaga without an array of experimental silhouettes with rounded shapes and of leather jackets paired with bicycle shorts or reworked denim. Ultra-slim looks came to counterbalance this equilibrium, and we cannot forget to mention the top made of a knotted leather jacket. The eyewear was out of this world, typically Balenciaga. Houndstooth print met jet black fabric on large coats with gravity-defying collars.
all images BALENCIAGA via showstudio.com
Sacai took a trip down Memory Lane and looked at the past to inspire the present. Emblematic Sacai components were seen on the runway, with a hunting jacket spliced with chiffon inserts, and slit MA1 jackets. At Rokh, everything was either black or white, straight or pleated, voluminous or fitted to the body. Asymmetrical buttoned tops and ruffled detailed blazers presented a cheeky twist on classical items. Pierre Cardin imagined an avant-garde collection where futurism met 1960’s tailoring. Metallic fabric in architectural constructions, with innovative shoulders and a dazzling colour palette.
all images SACAI and ROKH via showstudio.com
all images PIERRE CARDIN via tag-walk.com
DAY 9
CHANEL
The House of Chanel went back to Le Grand Palais, its emblematic runway location for the first time in years. After intensive renovation to prepare the sumptuous building for the 2024 Olympics, everything was ready for Chanel to settle in this more than familiar environment. Despite the expected nomination of a new Creative Director, Chanel’s in-house designers rose to the occasion and presented the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, mirroring the House’s long-lasting history and always fashionable aesthetic. Preppy women suit iconically Chanel sported pearly white, soft black and chequered tweed reminiscent of Coco’s favourites. Collars have been ruffled to add texture and volume, either on a modern catsuit or slightly oversized vest. The Chanel SS25 closet was chic and modern, embodying a sophisticated woman that creates her own path. The second part of the collection drifted away from the black-and-white duality and invited pastel pinks, baby blue and soft orange to the party that evoked a languishing afternoon in Deauville. Large capes paired with a printed denim outfit or matching dress brought some drama to the show, affirming once more Chanel’s leading role in the industry.
all images CHANEL via showstudio.com
MIU MIU
As the hottest brand in the world according to Lyst, Miu Miu lived up to a certain standard and everyone was impatient to discover their newest collection. As anticipated, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada did not drop the ball on this one! Between unexpected yet edgy pairings, an eclectic yet simple colour palette and the Miu Miu imprint recognisable from miles away, this collection was a hit. Stones resonated with every step of the models’ delicate heels, knotted cardigans layered on top of straight dresses and showing a bit of swimsuit, as kinky as it is playful. Sequin dresses met knee-length pleated skirts. Vinyl skirts liberated the body’s natural movements, enhanced by a multitude of metal belts. The vibe oscillated between British boarding school and polo team, although one often comes hand in hand with the other. Sporty jackets and windbreakers infused a boyish air to the collection. And who else than international treasure Willem Dafoe to close the show. Looking elegant in a sharp navy blue trench coat and grey pantsuit, proving that all you need to be a star is a great outfit.
all images MIU MIU via showstudio.com
LOUIS VUITTON
Fabrics light as the feather, complexity of the constructions and charming allure, these are the ways to describe Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show. The 50 looks were as different from one another as they individually were ravishing. We saw silver fringed skirts paired with large blouses, whose print resembles an old painting, Deep V-neck catsuits layered on top of oversized shirts, asymmetric pants with one long and one short leg (the flamingo game is on). The exploration of fabric and texture was beyond, with Nicolas Ghesquière crafting square shoulders straight dresses out of a magnificent sheer striped fabric. The footwear was unmatched, giving us a glimpse into multicoloured buckled sandals and feathered mules. Movement inspired every garment, with long open coats and babydoll dresses floating like otherworldly visions.
all images LOUIS VUITTON via showstudio.com
Lacoste revealed probably one of its best collections to date, shining a light on the brand’s A-game: tennis. From the racket embroidered sweaters and net-like dresses and tops to the omnipresence of mini pleated skirts, this presentation showed a real intent from the brand to elevate its style and make a sound comeback. Always timeless yet anchored in the here and now, Agnès b. unveiled a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that took classic fashion items and charged them with a relaxed and comfortable flair. The ambiance was rural and innocent, with chequered pants and dresses making the perfect attire for a picnic in the fields. Peter Do presented cutting-edge fashion of loose cut-outs, boxy fits and a colour palette combining dark blacks with greys and tamed browns for Helmut Lang. Futuristic, with a pinch of tailoring and a tad of false negligence made the recipe for this fascinating collection.
all images LACOSTE and PETER DO via showstudio.com
all images AGNÈS B via instagram.com
DAY 10
COPERNI
Everyone waited for it like the second coming of Christ: Coperni Spring/Summer 2025 runway show took place at DisneyLand Paris, under the guarding eye of the iconic pink castle. Subtle and refined, the creative duo behind the forward-thinking label explored the magical universe of our favourite cartoon mouse and provoked enchanting encounters between fashion and fairyland. Looks that celebrated the good guys as well as the villains made a diverse collection, where everyone had its place. Adorable printed t-shirt referencing our childhood movies switches between long dresses with a hint of Ancient Greece. Black garments borrowed characteristics from Maleficent, bringing a discreet twist without being too much. We had a crush on transparent mesh dresses decorated with purple feathers, embodying a true princess dream. We couldn’t ignore the outstanding balloon sleeves and trousers with a train merging traditional royal gowns with modern fashion, a smart way to bridge two universes. Obviously Kylie Jenner’s closing of the show in a black gown right out of a fairytale will certainly go down in fashion history, inhabiting our fantasies for years to come.
all images COPERNI via showstudio.com