MINIMALISTS BEWARE, ALESSANDRO MICHELE IS SO BACK AND VALENTINO’S SS25 PROVED US SO
words ELIANA CASA
editor MAREK BARTEK
While the fashion industry usually moves forward at the speed of light, we are still daydreaming about Valentino’s SS25 show in Paris, under the direction of Alessandro Michele. The creative director first gave us a sneak peek of his extraordinary vision for the brand with the SS25 Resort collection, but then left us even more speechless with the Spring/Summer 2025 Runway.
With our minds set on what will be next summer's hottest trends, Alessandro has already given us enough material to start planning our best outfits. But before we jump into that, let’s take a closer look inside the new collection.
Michele brought the fashion scene to the Pavillon des Folies in a setting we can only describe as sensational. Models strutted down a pavement made of broken mirrors, surrounded by a room filled with antiques and lamps draped in white sheets, resembling blank canvases. For a moment, it felt as though we were transported to an old house, crumbling under the uncertainty of time. The only way to make sense of it all is through beauty. As Alessandro himself stated: “Beauty is in fact a producer of comfort that can cherish us in a hug that preserves the warmth of bodies. Its purpose is healing: beauty lulls fragility and cicatrizes the disorder of the real.”
Although the shattered mirrors often symbolize a destruction of the self and evoke negative energies, we like to think of them as representing the opposite. Now, more than ever, Valentino feels like a rebirth.
Alessandro Michele is one of those designers who spends years studying the archives, translating them into new narratives. His inspiration draws from Valentino’s golden age of the 1970s, revisiting the iconic Valentino red, as well as late 1960s and 1980s power suits, all while keeping his signature maximalism alive.
In a continuous interplay of organza ruffles and black veils, sensuality is redefined once again with new codes — quite different from those of Gucci. Then came the unforgettable red Valentino ruffle dress, paired with a headdress and black bow, still vivid in our minds. Embroidered jackets paired with polka dot skirts, faux fur coats, and scarves were contrasted with street-style elements.
Beauty, in all its forms and shapes, takes center stage. As Alessandro clarified: “When I say beauty, I am clearly not referring to its universalistic, dogmatic and normative mythologisation. I rather allude to that unique capability to deeply feel and connect with something that unveils and reveals a new universe of meaning: an epiphany in which the connections between us, things and living beings, become immediately visible.”
What more is there to say? Alessandro has already said it all—or rather, shown us the way it should be done. Despite those who claim he’s still stuck in his Gucci era, he’s demonstrated to us a fresh vision that goes beyond his past work.
And, if you're wondering what to add from this collection to your Spring/Summer 2025 wish list, then just keep reading.
Lace gloves are just a reminder that the coquette trend shows no signs of slowing down. Ballerina flats for everyone, complete with bows and laces, will be everywhere next season. The power suits and fur in every form are making a comeback, though they never truly disappeared. Expect sporty silhouettes contrasted with chic elements, offering endless possibilities for layered looks. And, of course, suede. Yes, we’re talking about that brown suede bag with silver studs…
Once again, Alessandro is reminding us that true progress begins by diving into the past, starting from the very origins. Now, we can’t wait to see where he will take us next January with his Haute Couture collection.
all images VALENTINO via tag-walk.com
