words ELIYA WEINSTEIN, EMMANUELLE PLANTIER, FIONA FROMMELT, NIA TOPALOVA and SONNY NGO
editors MARIA MOTA, MARIE-PAULINE CESARI and MAREK BARTEK

ZOMER

all images ZOMER provided by the brand

Dutch label zomer presented its fourth collection inspired by the desire to tear down preconceived notions and twist around norms and conventions. Designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha explored sculptural shapes and rich textures under the sign of light and energy, a mantra that resonates even in the label’s name (zomer being the Dutch translation of summer).

Starting with the end, the show opened to a fake finale where applause resounded in the venue, taking everyone by surprise and warning us that we were in for a joyride. Glossy trenches, striped shirts and satin dresses turned their back at us, preferring to expose what is usually disregarded, putting fun and levity at the heart of the creative process. Structured floral dresses with their matching hats evoking a lampshade took us into Lewis Carroll’s surrealist masterpieces while thin destructured bags with tiny fringes pushed further the absurd philosophy that is so zomer. The acidulous colour palette adorned itself with forest greens, royal purples, bright yellows and soft corals, announcing summer’s forthcoming to the Parisian winter sky.

MAGDA BUTRYM

all images MAGDA BUTRYM provided by the brand

Magda Butrym’s Fall-Winter 2025 collection ‘Magdalena’ was an intimate exploration of the self, driven by pure emotion and desire to create. Drawing from her full name, ‘Magdalena’ represents Butrym's most personal statement to date. Inspired by Polish craftsmanship, particularly the rich tradition of weaving, the collection pays homage to Poland's cultural heritage while embracing contemporary design elements.

Influenced by visionaries such as Magdalena Abakanowicz, Paulina Ołowska, and generations of skilled Polish artisans, Butrym infused the handmade artistry of weaving into key elements of the collection. She incorporated yarns into sculptural pieces, like the red mini dress, and the crocheted wedding gown, both showcasing the richness of weaving. A delicate red fabric installation evoked a sense of softness and power, symbolizing the collection's core concept: sensuality paired with strength.
Butrym delivered a fearless reimagining of self-expression. With her vision of Slavic expressionism, she merged handcrafted artistry with a sensual, empowered femininity.

MAME KUROGOUCHI

all images MAME KUROGOUCHI provided by the brand

Mame Kurogouchi’s FW25 collection refined its study of form, drawing from traditional Japanese lacquerware. Sculptural yet fluid, silhouettes had soft, rounded contours with precise tailoring, creating a seamless balance of structure and movement. A key elements of the collection featured voluminous, cloud-like shapes, while asymmetrical draping, cocoon dresses, and wide collars wrapped the body in weightless poise. The marbling technique Suminagashi appeared in fluid patterns across ruffled tops and sculpted dresses, reinforcing the collection’s organic feel.

A palette of crimson and scarlet—reminiscent of lacquerware—contrasted with monochrome tones, emphasising depth. Textural contrasts, from floral jacquards to velvet and knitwear, added richness, while embroidered botanical motifs reflected the quiet beauty of seasonal change. Accessories echoed the collection’s sculptural elegance with petal-shaped earrings and leather bags featuring cutout details. Through delicate craftsmanship, Kurogouchi presented a collection where every curve and fold celebrated the art of shape in motion.

MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT

all images MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT via vogue.com

For this season’s Marie Adam-Leenaerdt show, we were immersed in the Parisian art gallery “Paradis”, where the guests had to pass through a room filled up with art pieces to arrive at the show. We witnessed a grey parade of oversized coats and jackets, as well as monochrome fabrics creating sculptural and static shapes. Models walked in integrated balaclavas from turtle neck sweaters, wearing sleeves finished with little fringed folding in bows. A standout look was the full leopard from bag to toes. Jackets were open letting us see the fabrics inside and shaping the silhouette.

DIOR

all images DIOR provided by the brand

For Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 show, Maria Grazia Chiuri revisited the House’s memories and gestures by forging a pluralistic dialogue with fashion history, demonstrating how clothing has the power to affirm cultural and social codes: “Temporalities sediment the creations in a continuous interplay of inspirations welcoming the imprint of bodies and modern desires.”

The anticipated theme of this collection was Virginia Woold’s novel “Orlando”, later adapted by Sally Potter. Inspired by how the character’s identity was brought across centuries and genders, as well as the remarkable work of costume designer Sandy Powell, Chiuri honoured the narrative using frills in the shape of a removable collar – an evolution of Orlando’s ruff. Virginia Woolf’s eponymous (and namesake) character illustrates someone who, despite their sexuality, flouted societal norms during the 1920s. Another founding element for Maria Grazia Chiuri was the white shirt, representing a piece of clothing freed from gender stereotypes. We witnessed the return of the J’adore Dior t-shirt signed by John Galliano. Cut-out and appliqué embroidery were offset by technical jackets, while dematerialized crinolines, black velvet ribbons attached to baroque pearls brought texture to the skirts and dresses. A swing, a prehistoric bird, rocks, craters, and finally the emergence of an iceberg–similar to the visual dramaturgy of Robert Wilson, the colours shifted, from dark to light, punctuating the scene changes.

GANNI

all images GANNI via vogue.com

This season, the GANNI woman is making herself at home, bringing with her a wardrobe filled with memory and sensation, a maximalist mix of prints and materials, drawing on the rich ornamentation of domestic interiors.

The collection was rich in tailoring, 3D knitwear, outwear, as well as sharp asymmetry cut suits, balloon sleeves, fluid dresses, and flared coats. Sequinned adornments were crafted from seaweed and natural plasticisers, as an alternative to plastic sequins. Armour-like materials were integrated in addition to traditionally protective fabrics, recycled wool and cashmere, as well as the Tri-Layer water and wind resistant recycled nylon ripstop.

GANNI’s Fall/Winter 2025 celebrated the beauty of intentional imperfections – “Protected by the cocooning familiarity of the domestic world, her wardrobe signals that from living rooms to life beyond, the house of GANNI is always a home.”

ANREALAGE

all images ANREALAGE via vogue.com

It is never easy to anticipate the theme of a new collection by a brand as playful and imaginative as Anrealage, but this season their invites gave us a clue - little LED displays addressed personally to each invitee. The Anrealage FW25 collection was, fittingly, titled “SCREEN”, presented with an original soundtrack created for the show by member of the duo Daft Punk Thomas Bangalter.

Kunihiko Morinaga imagined a future, where screen-time cannot be escaped, and questions if the brightest of lights really are brightening our world. LED yarns were knitted into Minecrafty box shaped dresses and two piece sets with the help of MPLUSPLUS, changing colour and pattern as if by magic. Less structured silhouettes hung oversized over the body. Mesh covered each of the models faces, as if the lights weren’t too bright for us to make them out anyway.

Amongst other designs like sparkling stars and flickering flannel prints, the garments synchronistically lit up to appear like stained glass windows. With the grand windows of The American Cathedral of Paris directly behind them, they posited a commentary between the real and digital. Despite the explosions of colour on each garment and the awe of the audience, a darkness hung in the air as we were brought to question where our worship lies as we continue to rely on technology.

PRESSIAT

all images PRESSIAT via fashionnetwork.com

Fashion is a cult. A bit dark, a bit dangerous, once you’re in, it seems there’s no way out. Fashion is addictive, seductive, you can’t keep your eyes off it. Pressiat channeled our lust for fashion in their FW25 collection.

Leather, leopard and long legs defined the collection. Coloured matte black and in dark neutrals, it’s not hard to imagine the club’s VIP lounge lined in these pieces. Shoulders were left bare in bodycon tops and dresses with fold-over necklines, and mini-skirts with cutouts revealed the hip and thigh. Alien-like shapes, recontextualised in thick fur, referenced cult-classics of pop culture to say there is just no avoiding fashion.

The collection flirted with the dirtiness of rock & roll but referred to classy cuts and drapery in longer silky dresses resulting in an alluring mysteriousness. A long trench was cinched tight by a black belt then loosely tied in a bow, leaving us to wonder what's waiting underneath for when the club closes and the real party starts. Black Thierry Lasry sunglasses and even blacker eye makeup sucked us in and made the dark side all the more inviting.

UNDERCOVER

all images UNDERCOVER provided by the brand

Opening with a dramatic spotlight and supported by a moving rendition of “I put a spell on you,” Jun Takahashi’s latest Undercover runway enchanted us all right. Celebrating its 35th commemorative collection, Takahasi presented a reinvention of his favourite past collections, reimagining them through a new, yet familiar aesthetic. It was punk, electrifying, comfy, classy, and then some.

From gold adornments and glistening broches to warm and snug Champion co-signed garments, the collection was an eclectic fusion of contrasts. Pops of vibrant reds and blues were interwoven with muted browns and deep forest greens. Butterflies fluttered their way into the wardrobe as well, with a nature-inspired print placed upon various trousers, skirts, blazers, and jackets – imbuing the models with a calm and grounded feel. That down-to-earth energy carried its way throughout the majority of the show, as small and soft spotlights brightened the floor, while the music maintained a steady, low-tempo rhythm.

But then, the atmosphere shifted. After the lights return to one focal point, leaving the rest of the space pitchblack, and a brief pause builds up tension within the room, a breathless piano adjusts the pulse of the show and introduces the final few looks. Glowing headpieces shaped in spiky, almost branch-like, crowns illuminate the models as they step into the centre. Puffy one-pieces reminiscent of gigantic plushies, shimmering sequin dresses, and bird feathered jackets move in sync with the elegant soundscape – demanding the audience’s full attention. This season, Undercover managed to balance the thread of drama and lightness ever so gracefully, but one thing is certain, however, heavy is the crown indeed.

MAITREPIERRE

all images MAITREPIERRE provided by the brand

The past, reimagined for the future, with his eco-innovative process, Maitrepierre is about taking what was and making it last. This collection honored nostalgia while pushing craftsmanship boundaries. Retro influences like flowing fringes and strong ‘60s silhouettes were made for bold self-expression in a new and gentle way.

This collection was all about soft texture, stiff fabrics, graphic prints, frills and stunning 3D floral adornments, using a laser cutter for the designs. The tops and coats were covered in beautifully moving frills, dresses were adorned with 3D flowers, and pants and skirts enhanced with shiny fabrics. The grand finale: A stunning gown made from 18 metres of laser cut fabric turned frills. The colors underlining the collection's theme of softness, ranged from pastel pinks, yellows and light greens to deeper greens and browns.

The collaboration with Converse was a highlight: platform Chucks and high boots, some adorned with flowers, blending heritage with innovation. Converse being a brand we all know and love, the connection feels universal — this time, with a new story to tell.

ALAÏA

all images ALAÏA via vogue.com

Ladies and gentlemen, the chicest, sleekest and finest Alaïa finally unveiled its FW25 at the Paris Fashion Week, and we were dying to see Pieter Mulier’s creative genius back on the runway. Between experimentation with impossible shapes, groundbreaking silhouettes and a richness of textures like no other, Alaïa re-defined sophistication by proposing a futuristic vision that made elegance rhyme with exploration.

Clearly we had to start with the obvious, and we have to say we were fascinated by the perfectly round headwear enclosing the models’ faces in a surrealist fashion, directly transporting us to one of Moebius’ graphic novels. These pieces were complemented by stretchy mesh tops that looked like second skin, furthering the science-fiction feel of the whole. 3D tops evoking an armadillo skin crawled around the bodies like snakes, elevating the shoulders to new heights. Flowing pleated skirts shimmied in endless movement, while their squared waists would easily allow us to balance our daily cup of tea on them. Squared off fur coats and jackets seamlessly revealed a narrative of trailblazing fashion, with avant-garde and radicalness at the heart of the tale. Long hairy coats (decidedly everyone in the industry must be bald by now) made us yearn for a snowstorm, with their adorable bows infusing softness to the garment.

PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025: DAY 2